200Tdi Defender - Head Gasket gone...

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J

Jon

Guest
Hi All,

I checked my timing on Friday and all was OK, so left alone.

Some time ago now Richard was willing to bet "a cup of tea" that my
head gasket would be failing around cylinder No. 4.

On Saturday it went about 20miles from anywhere.... Lots of oil vapour
pouring through the breather into the turbo and still enough
compression in the rocker box to lift the oil filler clear of the
hole... By the time I got to a road 99% of the oil had been dumped or
burnt. I got towed home from the road.

I set about removing the head last night...

Big hole in gasket between the cylinder nearest the bulkhead and the
pushrod hole nearest the bulkhead...

After 150,000miles honeing marks are still visible in the middle 2
cylinders (never turned the engine over to check the other two). Top
of pistons look OK.

I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
silicon present between block and gasket.

I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.

Questions:
1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
it, indicating the thickest one.
2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
needed.
3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?
4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?

Any thoughts guys?
Jon
 
Jon wrote:

> I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
> bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
> silicon present between block and gasket.


UGLY.

> I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
> night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
> conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
> it, indicating the thickest one.


The gasket thickness is determined by the block, con rods and pistons,
not by the head.

The head can be skimmed if its needed, but too much will be a problem -
get a good engine shop to see if the thing is warped first. How are the
valves ?

> 2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on?

I'd say dry, and torqued up properly.

> 3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?

I haven't.
> 4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
> condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
> dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
> con-rods to inspect?


Why not, you're already deep in the doo-doo, dropping the sump and
ladder frame isn't too hard, but make sure the sealing surfaces are
spotless before you reseal everything, and remember the pistons only go
in one way round.

Steve
 
In message <[email protected]>
Jon <[email protected]> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I checked my timing on Friday and all was OK, so left alone.
>
> Some time ago now Richard was willing to bet "a cup of tea" that my
> head gasket would be failing around cylinder No. 4.
>
> On Saturday it went about 20miles from anywhere.... Lots of oil vapour
> pouring through the breather into the turbo and still enough
> compression in the rocker box to lift the oil filler clear of the
> hole... By the time I got to a road 99% of the oil had been dumped or
> burnt. I got towed home from the road.
>
> I set about removing the head last night...
>
> Big hole in gasket between the cylinder nearest the bulkhead and the
> pushrod hole nearest the bulkhead...
>
> After 150,000miles honeing marks are still visible in the middle 2
> cylinders (never turned the engine over to check the other two). Top
> of pistons look OK.
>
> I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
> bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
> silicon present between block and gasket.
>
> I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
> night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
> conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
> it, indicating the thickest one.


I'd get a place to give it the lightest skim they can - if nothing
else it proves everthing is ok.

> 2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
> always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
> becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
> blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
> between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
> perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
> normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
> needed.


Definately not. If the gasket won't seal the reason needs to found,
anything else is just putting off the ineviatble. The three holes
sound like the thickness indicators - they don't do anything else.

> 3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?


Elring are fine - I think they are OEM for LR anyway.

> 4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
> condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
> dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
> con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
> engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?


Worth a look - but usually no harm is done, 200Tdi's are pretty
good at running with bugger-all oil.

>
> Any thoughts guys?


It might be an idea just to check for play in the valve guides at
that sort of milage - again it's most likely to be absolutely fine,
but no harm in looking. Changing the guide seals while the lid is off
is a good idea.


> Jon


Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems
 
Richard,
Once again, many thanks. I'll keep all posted on progress.

Jon


On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 09:19:05 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In message <[email protected]>
> Jon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I checked my timing on Friday and all was OK, so left alone.
>>
>> Some time ago now Richard was willing to bet "a cup of tea" that my
>> head gasket would be failing around cylinder No. 4.
>>
>> On Saturday it went about 20miles from anywhere.... Lots of oil vapour
>> pouring through the breather into the turbo and still enough
>> compression in the rocker box to lift the oil filler clear of the
>> hole... By the time I got to a road 99% of the oil had been dumped or
>> burnt. I got towed home from the road.
>>
>> I set about removing the head last night...
>>
>> Big hole in gasket between the cylinder nearest the bulkhead and the
>> pushrod hole nearest the bulkhead...
>>
>> After 150,000miles honeing marks are still visible in the middle 2
>> cylinders (never turned the engine over to check the other two). Top
>> of pistons look OK.
>>
>> I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
>> bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
>> silicon present between block and gasket.
>>
>> I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
>> night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.
>>
>> Questions:
>> 1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
>> conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
>> it, indicating the thickest one.

>
>I'd get a place to give it the lightest skim they can - if nothing
>else it proves everthing is ok.
>
>> 2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
>> always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
>> becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
>> blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
>> between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
>> perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
>> normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
>> needed.

>
>Definately not. If the gasket won't seal the reason needs to found,
>anything else is just putting off the ineviatble. The three holes
>sound like the thickness indicators - they don't do anything else.


As I thought...
>
>> 3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?

>
>Elring are fine - I think they are OEM for LR anyway.


Thanks.

>
>> 4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
>> condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
>> dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
>> con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
>> engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?

>
>Worth a look - but usually no harm is done, 200Tdi's are pretty
>good at running with bugger-all oil.


Thats a relief. Given there was only the slightest rattle for a short
while I'll leave it alone I think.

>
>>
>> Any thoughts guys?

>
>It might be an idea just to check for play in the valve guides at
>that sort of milage - again it's most likely to be absolutely fine,
>but no harm in looking. Changing the guide seals while the lid is off
>is a good idea.
>

Will do.



>
>> Jon

>
>Richard


 
beamendsltd wrote:

> In message <[email protected]>
> Jon <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>Hi All,
>>
>>I checked my timing on Friday and all was OK, so left alone.
>>
>>Some time ago now Richard was willing to bet "a cup of tea" that my
>>head gasket would be failing around cylinder No. 4.
>>
>>On Saturday it went about 20miles from anywhere.... Lots of oil vapour
>>pouring through the breather into the turbo and still enough
>>compression in the rocker box to lift the oil filler clear of the
>>hole... By the time I got to a road 99% of the oil had been dumped or
>>burnt. I got towed home from the road.
>>
>>I set about removing the head last night...
>>
>>Big hole in gasket between the cylinder nearest the bulkhead and the
>>pushrod hole nearest the bulkhead...
>>
>>After 150,000miles honeing marks are still visible in the middle 2
>>cylinders (never turned the engine over to check the other two). Top
>>of pistons look OK.
>>
>>I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
>>bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
>>silicon present between block and gasket.
>>
>>I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
>>night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.
>>
>>Questions:
>>1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
>>conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
>>it, indicating the thickest one.

>
>
> I'd get a place to give it the lightest skim they can - if nothing
> else it proves everthing is ok.
>
>
>>2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
>>always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
>>becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
>>blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
>>between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
>>perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
>>normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
>>needed.

>
>
> Definately not. If the gasket won't seal the reason needs to found,
> anything else is just putting off the ineviatble. The three holes
> sound like the thickness indicators - they don't do anything else.
>
>
>>3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?

>
>
> Elring are fine - I think they are OEM for LR anyway.
>
>
>>4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
>>condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
>>dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
>>con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
>>engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?

>
>
> Worth a look - but usually no harm is done, 200Tdi's are pretty
> good at running with bugger-all oil.
>
>
>>Any thoughts guys?

>
>
> It might be an idea just to check for play in the valve guides at
> that sort of milage - again it's most likely to be absolutely fine,
> but no harm in looking. Changing the guide seals while the lid is off
> is a good idea.
>
>
>
>>Jon

>
>
> Richard

As above, also maybe wise to put a straight edge across the block as well.
Leo
 
Thoughts generally seem to be leave the bottom end alone, fill back
with oil and see what happens! Oil pressure light never came on so
there must be enough oil left in the sump to keep lubricated??

I am a little concerned about which head gasket to order - the three
hole one came off (ERR5263 ?), should I just order another 3 hole one
or measure piston protrusion and get a 2 hole on (ERR5262 ?) if within
tolerance, as per Mr Haynes??

That said, does the 0.1mm difference in thickness actually make any
difference? Should I save myself the hassle and go with a 3 hole
gasket? Measuring piston protrusion will not be too easy as i have no
gauge with which to measure!

Thanks
Jon


On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 08:18:41 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Hi All,
>
>I checked my timing on Friday and all was OK, so left alone.
>
>Some time ago now Richard was willing to bet "a cup of tea" that my
>head gasket would be failing around cylinder No. 4.
>
>On Saturday it went about 20miles from anywhere.... Lots of oil vapour
>pouring through the breather into the turbo and still enough
>compression in the rocker box to lift the oil filler clear of the
>hole... By the time I got to a road 99% of the oil had been dumped or
>burnt. I got towed home from the road.
>
>I set about removing the head last night...
>
>Big hole in gasket between the cylinder nearest the bulkhead and the
>pushrod hole nearest the bulkhead...
>
>After 150,000miles honeing marks are still visible in the middle 2
>cylinders (never turned the engine over to check the other two). Top
>of pistons look OK.
>
>I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
>bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
>silicon present between block and gasket.
>
>I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
>night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.
>
>Questions:
>1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
>conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
>it, indicating the thickest one.
>2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
>always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
>becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
>blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
>between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
>perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
>normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
>needed.
>3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?
>4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
>condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
>dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
>con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
>engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?
>
>Any thoughts guys?
>Jon


 

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Hi All,
>
> I checked my timing on Friday and all was OK, so left alone.
>
> Some time ago now Richard was willing to bet "a cup of tea" that my
> head gasket would be failing around cylinder No. 4.
>
> On Saturday it went about 20miles from anywhere.... Lots of oil vapour
> pouring through the breather into the turbo and still enough
> compression in the rocker box to lift the oil filler clear of the
> hole... By the time I got to a road 99% of the oil had been dumped or
> burnt. I got towed home from the road.
>
> I set about removing the head last night...
>
> Big hole in gasket between the cylinder nearest the bulkhead and the
> pushrod hole nearest the bulkhead...
>
> After 150,000miles honeing marks are still visible in the middle 2
> cylinders (never turned the engine over to check the other two). Top
> of pistons look OK.
>
> I am sure the head has been off before (previous owner). Firstly,
> bolts where not all torqued down to the same amount and secondly,
> silicon present between block and gasket.
>
> I dont know yet how much oil is left in the sump (never got to it last
> night). I do know bugger all shows on the dipstick.
>
> Questions:
> 1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
> conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
> it, indicating the thickest one.


It can, although some will say you shouldn't. I wouldn't take more than 10
thou off of one in total.

> 2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
> always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
> becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
> blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
> between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
> perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
> normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
> needed.


Fit gasket dry, or with a very thin smear of Hylomar around the water
jackets only. Do not use silicon!!

> 3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?


Yes.

> 4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
> condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
> dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
> con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
> engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?


Wouldn't hurt to check, would it?

> Any thoughts guys?
> Jon


Also, even though the book says no need, if the head bolts have been re-used
maybe a couple of times then I'd replace the bolts just to be safe. Even
though they aren't stretch bolts, you never know if anyone has overtorqued
them beyond the elastic limits.
Badger.


 
"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

>
> Also, even though the book says no need, if the head bolts have been
> re-used maybe a couple of times then I'd replace the bolts just to be
> safe. Even though they aren't stretch bolts, you never know if anyone
> has overtorqued them beyond the elastic limits.
> Badger.


I was waiting for someone to say that. My local diesel "expert" put three
new head gaskets onto one of my Peugeot 504's before I learnt sense and
went to the local dealer. (Each new gasket blew!).

The first thing the dealers did was to replace the bolts. Soon after,
Peugeot only supplied new head gaskets with a set of new bolts as standard.
What do they cost against peace of mind? A few quid well spent.

Derry
 
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Jon) wrote:

> 1. Can or should the head be skimmed? I have read previously
> conflicting opinionson this. The gasket that came off had 3 holes in
> it, indicating the thickest one.


Get it checked by someone reputable and take their advice.

> 2. Should gasket sealer be used when I put the new gasket on? I
> always thought they should be put on dry. The reason I ask is
> becacuse when I removed the current one there was some silicon
> blocking a few small holes in the block (approx 3mm or 4mm diameter
> between the pushrod holes in the gasket. This sounds bad to me and is
> perhaps a reason why my temperature was always on the higher side of
> normal. I have photos of the holes in question if clarification is
> needed.


No sealer there ever.
> 3. What is the opinion on gaskets? Use genuine LR ones?


See Richard's reply.

> 4. After 150,000 miles, and Saturdays limp to a road, what sort of
> condition are my big-end bearings likely to be in? Is it worth
> dropping the sump off and removing the underside shell of a couple of
> con-rods to inspect? I figure this may be easier than lifting out the
> engine if bottom end is still OK!?!?


I'd replace them as a matter of course at that milage after checking the
crank itself of course., and while the pistons are out I'd fit new rings
at the same time


Niamh.
 
In article <[email protected]>,
[email protected] (Jon) wrote:

> I am a little concerned about which head gasket to order - the three
> hole one came off (ERR5263 ?), should I just order another 3 hole one
> or measure piston protrusion and get a 2 hole on (ERR5262 ?) if within
> tolerance, as per Mr Haynes??


Measure it and fit the right one, FWIW we generally find that 1 hole is
actually the right one.

--
Niamh
4x4 Cymru
http://www.4x4cymru.co.uk

 
On or around Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:52 +0100 (BST),
[email protected] (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>[email protected] (Jon) wrote:
>
>> I am a little concerned about which head gasket to order - the three
>> hole one came off (ERR5263 ?), should I just order another 3 hole one
>> or measure piston protrusion and get a 2 hole on (ERR5262 ?) if within
>> tolerance, as per Mr Haynes??

>
>Measure it and fit the right one, FWIW we generally find that 1 hole is
>actually the right one.


either that or fit the fattest one - I presume, you lose a touch of
compression and maybe a couple of BHP. Depends whether you have suitable
equipment accurately to measure the piston protrusion.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Nessun maggior dolore che ricordarsi del tempo felice nella miseria"
- Dante Alighieri (1265 - 1321) from Divina Commedia 'Inferno'
 
All,

Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
access to web space etc.

Anyway, head removed and gasket had a big hole in it.

Replaced (thanks Richard) and now all is running well again (temp
still reading high but I am sure that MUST now be the gauge).

Attached is a photo of the offending gasket. Out of interest is this
typical of where you would expect them to go? And, is the size of the
hole fairly typical? I was expecting a small crack, not a casm!

Thanks,
Jon

 
On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 09:24:30 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
wrote:

>Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
>access to web space etc.


So ****ing what? That's like saying "sorry for punching you in the
mouth, I felt like it as I couldn't kick my dog". Fortunately most
nntp providers protect the world from ****wits by stripping
attachments from non-binary groups. Get a clue or **** off elsewhere.

 
Mother wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 09:24:30 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
>>access to web space etc.

>
>
> So ****ing what? That's like saying "sorry for punching you in the
> mouth, I felt like it as I couldn't kick my dog". Fortunately most
> nntp providers protect the world from ****wits by stripping
> attachments from non-binary groups. Get a clue or **** off elsewhere.
>


Settle down Martyn. You're sounding as stressed as I am - you beat me
to this one which is probably just as well - after a day of dealing with
luser problems I need to really abuse someone too. Methinks a bit of
BOFHishness tomorrow might improve my mindset significantly.

Anyway, take a deep breath, and ignore the poor souls that don't
understand usenet conventions - it's not worth the heart-attack and I'm
sure someone else will be along shortly to explain the rules to them.

--
EMB
 

"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
> access to web space etc.
>
> Anyway, head removed and gasket had a big hole in it.
>
> Replaced (thanks Richard) and now all is running well again (temp
> still reading high but I am sure that MUST now be the gauge).
>
> Attached is a photo of the offending gasket. Out of interest is this
> typical of where you would expect them to go? And, is the size of the
> hole fairly typical? I was expecting a small crack, not a casm!
>
> Thanks,
> Jon
>


Jon, as you have no doubt found out, it isn't the done thing to post
photos!! Martyn is obviously a little stressed at the time of posting, I'd
suggest.
Your gasket is fairly typical, the missing portion's size being due to the
considerably higher combustion pressures encountered within a disiesel
engine than a petrol, but it is also extremely common to see them blown out
of the rear face to the outside world.
Badger.


 

"Mother" <"@ {m} @"@101fc.net> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 09:24:30 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
>>Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
>>access to web space etc.

>
> So ****ing what? That's like saying "sorry for punching you in the
> mouth, I felt like it as I couldn't kick my dog". Fortunately most
> nntp providers protect the world from ****wits by stripping
> attachments from non-binary groups. Get a clue or **** off elsewhere.
>


C'mon martyn, not everyone is completely clued up as to what is acceptable
user convention and what isn't. There are computer "newbie's" out there that
have to learn these things as they go along, chrissakes I'm not that far
advanced from beginner status myself. Count to 20 and take deep
breaths........ ;-)
Badger.


 
Ok, sounds like someone got out of the wrong side of the bed this
morning...

And yes I am fully aware of normal convention, thats why I clearly put
in the subject that there was a photo attached, thus giving the option
to those who dont want to download the option of skipping to the next
thread.

The option to download the thread therefore is yours. The fact that
you did and got upset is your problem.

Appology accepted!
Jon


On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 10:49:17 +0100, Mother <"@ {m} @"@101fc.net>
wrote:

>On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 09:24:30 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>
>>Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
>>access to web space etc.

>
>So ****ing what? That's like saying "sorry for punching you in the
>mouth, I felt like it as I couldn't kick my dog". Fortunately most
>nntp providers protect the world from ****wits by stripping
>attachments from non-binary groups. Get a clue or **** off elsewhere.


 
On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 10:35:33 +0000 (UTC), "Badger"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
>"Jon" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> All,
>>
>> Firstly, sorry for the attachement. But dont shoot me down, I have no
>> access to web space etc.
>>
>> Anyway, head removed and gasket had a big hole in it.
>>
>> Replaced (thanks Richard) and now all is running well again (temp
>> still reading high but I am sure that MUST now be the gauge).
>>
>> Attached is a photo of the offending gasket. Out of interest is this
>> typical of where you would expect them to go? And, is the size of the
>> hole fairly typical? I was expecting a small crack, not a casm!
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Jon
>>

>
>Jon, as you have no doubt found out, it isn't the done thing to post
>photos!! Martyn is obviously a little stressed at the time of posting, I'd
>suggest.
>Your gasket is fairly typical, the missing portion's size being due to the
>considerably higher combustion pressures encountered within a disiesel
>engine than a petrol, but it is also extremely common to see them blown out
>of the rear face to the outside world.
>Badger.
>


Thank you for the informed reply. This is more in line with what I
have come to expect from this other-wise friendly group.
Thanks.
Jon
 
Mother wrote:

> So ****ing what? That's like saying "sorry for punching you in the
> mouth, I felt like it as I couldn't kick my dog". Fortunately most
> nntp providers protect the world from ****wits by stripping
> attachments from non-binary groups. Get a clue or **** off elsewhere.


I prescribe a large glass of something white, from a green bottle, made
in France, chilled to suitable temperature. In fact why not just have
the whole bottle......

Then lie down.

Lizzy

 
On Mon, 22 Aug 2005 11:27:10 +0000 (UTC), Jon <[email protected]>
wrote:

>The option to download the thread therefore is yours. The fact that
>you did and got upset is your problem.


My "problem", quite apart from you being a top posting ****wit, is
that even given that you knew it is not acceptable to post binaries to
a non binary group, did it anyway.

I'm generally getting a little lenient in my old age and will make
space for those new to usenet (which you evidently are not), will
generally let top posting go, and adverts, and snipwhitterage, but I
do draw the line at letting such concentrated ****wittery pass without
comment.

http://www.****wit.info

 
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