200tdi 90 Build
- Thread starter 200tdiRob
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
- Posts
- 6,369
- Location
- Doncaster
Top work so far, it looks great, I like the engine 
I will look forward to the rest of the rebuild.
Oh, p.s, I don't suppose you have a link to the electro plating kit you bought? I quite like that and the thought of being able to do it myself.
I will look forward to the rest of the rebuild.
Oh, p.s, I don't suppose you have a link to the electro plating kit you bought? I quite like that
and the thought of being able to do it myself.
Last edited:
SpaceDawg
Active Member
- Posts
- 935
- Location
- Cowfold, West Sussex
Great build, your obviously a planner and think about what your doing. Well done excellent job, can you make my axles look like that as well.
flat
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 9,075
- Location
- Far away from you!!
Looks ace, I got 5l of dinitrol in my 90 chassis over two attempts
Top work so far, it looks great, I like the engine
I will look forward to the rest of the rebuild.
Oh, p.s, I don't suppose you have a link to the electro plating kit you bought? I quite like that
Cheers bud, this is the kit i bought:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zinc-Elec...263135?hash=item3ac2eaae5f:g:NqMAAOSwtJZXWBS8
Seems a bit pricy but for the amount i saved on new bolts and all the other various brackets and things i have plated its well worth it. If you get one and want any tips just fire me a pm
Cheers dude, Something to add to the ever growing shopping list!
Had some time off this week so got a few more bits done on the landy. My fuel tank cradle from yrm had been delivered so first job was to fit it to the chassis and drop in the td5 tank. I swapped the td5 pump in the tank to a row spec 300tdi one as advised by mr aaronmorris so that it would work with the 200tdi.
I thought this was gonna be a half hour job but it turned out to more of a four hour job. Not sure if it was the holes in the chassis brackets or the holes in the cradle that were off or a combination of both but only one of the four bolt holes actually lined up.
Another issue was that the stainless washers for the bolts that go through the rear cross member wouldnt fit through the access holes in the cross member.
The right hand side one wasnt a problem as the washer could go throuh the big hole next to it but to get the one on the left i had to try and push the washer along the inside of the cross member with a hacksaw blade. Eventually got it but only after lifting up the back of the chassis to ease pushing it through. Where theres a will theres a way!
Once the rear bolts were on loosely i had to use a load of rachet straps to try to get the holes somewhere near but i still ended up having to file the holes in the chassis to get the bolts it.
After that bit of a mission i could drop the tank in.
Next job made up for it thouh as it was engine fitting time. I was thinking about waiting to fit it untill the gearbox was bolted on but I needed the space it was taking up in the garage. So on it went!
Ive also been altering a td5 bulkhead ive got so it will work with the 200tdi and also been stripping down and starting to repair the front doors but ill put that in another post.
I thought this was gonna be a half hour job but it turned out to more of a four hour job. Not sure if it was the holes in the chassis brackets or the holes in the cradle that were off or a combination of both but only one of the four bolt holes actually lined up.
Another issue was that the stainless washers for the bolts that go through the rear cross member wouldnt fit through the access holes in the cross member.
The right hand side one wasnt a problem as the washer could go throuh the big hole next to it but to get the one on the left i had to try and push the washer along the inside of the cross member with a hacksaw blade. Eventually got it but only after lifting up the back of the chassis to ease pushing it through. Where theres a will theres a way!
Once the rear bolts were on loosely i had to use a load of rachet straps to try to get the holes somewhere near but i still ended up having to file the holes in the chassis to get the bolts it.
After that bit of a mission i could drop the tank in.
Next job made up for it thouh as it was engine fitting time. I was thinking about waiting to fit it untill the gearbox was bolted on but I needed the space it was taking up in the garage. So on it went!
Ive also been altering a td5 bulkhead ive got so it will work with the 200tdi and also been stripping down and starting to repair the front doors but ill put that in another post.
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
I love the look of my galv chassis, but I have to admit that black chassis looks gorgeous.
Great looking work, Rob.
Great looking work, Rob.
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,800
- Location
- Derbyshire, j28 M1
How come you went for a rear tank instead of under the drivers seat? Is there added benefit? Its looking pukka tho I'll give you that
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
+1
Is it a TD5 chassis?Cheers! It's a 200tdi chassis that I had the td5 fuel tank mounts put on when I ordered the chassis from Richards. The reason for the rear tank rather than the under the seat tank is because my seat box was knackered and I managed to pick up a tdci one dirt cheap. I was originally gonna run both tanks and have the rear one as an extra that could could be pumped into the front one. When I got the new seat tub I really thought about what the Landy will be used for and thought do I really need two tanks. Decided that rather than cutting the box out from under the drivers seat (the tdci one has a box on both sides) on the new tub it would make sense to utilise it for a second battery or for the Jack/jump leads etc. Especially as I'm changing the tub to a CSW one that has no bulkhead. Also one less thing to go rusty!
SpaceDawg
Active Member
- Posts
- 935
- Location
- Cowfold, West Sussex
hole issues
Tell me about it!
Great build, good to see the lump back in.
Mick Guilbert
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 466
Looking good so far.
zeaphod
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,103
- Location
- Belfast, Norn Iron
Looks great , love this stage of a build - just like a big Meccano set.
- Posts
- 11,020
- Location
- North of the Wall
Good forward planning, that!Cheers! It's a 200tdi chassis that I had the td5 fuel tank mounts put on when I ordered the chassis from Richards. The reason for the rear tank rather than the under the seat tank is because my seat box was knackered and I managed to pick up a tdci one dirt cheap. I was originally gonna run both tanks and have the rear one as an extra that could could be pumped into the front one. When I got the new seat tub I really thought about what the Landy will be used for and thought do I really need two tanks. Decided that rather than cutting the box out from under the drivers seat (the tdci one has a box on both sides) on the new tub it would make sense to utilise it for a second battery or for the Jack/jump leads etc. Especially as I'm changing the tub to a CSW one that has no bulkhead. Also one less thing to go rusty!
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,800
- Location
- Derbyshire, j28 M1
When's the next update coming? Cmon Cmon we need more pics
Right, bit more progress this week. Starting the push to get bodywork ready for paint so first jobs are altering the td5 bulkhead to fit and starting the laborious task of repairing the front doors.
Bulkhead started off like this before i stripped it bare. Decided to get a bulkhead with all the dash and as much as the other bits as possible to try and ease things later in the build. Added bonus was that it came with the right brake valve, sevo etc to suit the td5 vented disk setup I now have.
After it was stripped It was time to alter the gearbox tunnel area to suit the 200tdi. Got all blue peter with making paper templates to make sure I cut out the un-needed bit as accurate as possible.
Marked up ready to cut
Then cut out
Once that was cut out the holes were drilled for the inserts and then square out fit the inserts
Next job was to drill the holes in the d/s footwell for the loom cable clips and the fuel pipe clip
Next was the big hole in middle of the bulkhead for loom to go through. Measured at 43mm diameter but only had a 44mm hole saw which was close enough.
Also drilled the two holes for the m8 rivnuts for the fuel filter housing but forgot to take a picture. I know this will divide opinion but i've decided not to have the bulkhead galved. Two reasons really, one being is that i dont want to risk it warping and second is that its in a really good condition with very minimal rust. Plan is to thoroughly fill it with dinitrol in the cavities and to coat the outside with a rust stabilising primer to protect it.
While I was waiting for the primer to arrive I started to strip the doors down to find out what needed to be repaired. Drivers door was the worst of the two so sterted on that one.
With door card off I found that the soundeadening had pealed off and turned in a rock hard lump in the bottom of the door. No wonder it sounded terrible when closing it
The bottom frame section is knackered so just waiting on the the yrm repair section now to start the repair.
Bulkhead started off like this before i stripped it bare. Decided to get a bulkhead with all the dash and as much as the other bits as possible to try and ease things later in the build. Added bonus was that it came with the right brake valve, sevo etc to suit the td5 vented disk setup I now have.
After it was stripped It was time to alter the gearbox tunnel area to suit the 200tdi. Got all blue peter with making paper templates to make sure I cut out the un-needed bit as accurate as possible.
Marked up ready to cut
Then cut out
Once that was cut out the holes were drilled for the inserts and then square out fit the inserts
Next job was to drill the holes in the d/s footwell for the loom cable clips and the fuel pipe clip
Next was the big hole in middle of the bulkhead for loom to go through. Measured at 43mm diameter but only had a 44mm hole saw which was close enough.
Also drilled the two holes for the m8 rivnuts for the fuel filter housing but forgot to take a picture. I know this will divide opinion but i've decided not to have the bulkhead galved. Two reasons really, one being is that i dont want to risk it warping and second is that its in a really good condition with very minimal rust. Plan is to thoroughly fill it with dinitrol in the cavities and to coat the outside with a rust stabilising primer to protect it.
While I was waiting for the primer to arrive I started to strip the doors down to find out what needed to be repaired. Drivers door was the worst of the two so sterted on that one.
With door card off I found that the soundeadening had pealed off and turned in a rock hard lump in the bottom of the door. No wonder it sounded terrible when closing it
The bottom frame section is knackered so just waiting on the the yrm repair section now to start the repair.
IamRobbie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,800
- Location
- Derbyshire, j28 M1
Can those repair sections be welded I'm place with the door skin on? Reason I ask is I have two doors in the shed with knackered bottom.
Yep they can be. It's tricky and you need to be careful with the grinder but it can be done. Watch this space for an update and I'll post the pictures up of how I done it.
Bit of an overdue update. Spent the last two months doing the mind numbing work of prepping the body work for paint and working some mental hours to try and get some funds to pay for the paint work. Everything is out with the painter now so thought I'd post up some of the more interesting bits of what's progressed.
Finished the drivers door repair by first cutting out the rusty sections and cleaning up the inner skin face. The door skin has to be carefully pealed back from the frame to get access to the bottom section of the door.
Then gave the inside a coat of corroless to try to help protect it a bit
A new repair section from YRM was then welded in and few patches at the top were also welded in.
Once the welding was done the skin was folded back down over the frame.
I did start to repair the rust in the p/s door but ended up just buying a replacement. The p/s door had been repaired by the previous owner and after looking at it it was clear they had welded the repair section in upside down. This meant the slopped section of the repair was on the bottom and not the inside. Always wondered why that door caught at the bottom when you closed it. Rather than hack all that out and have to wait for a new repair section I found a replacement door locally that was cheap so thought that was the better option.
Next up was the p/s wing repair. The wing had also obviously been repaired before as it has had a new side to it. The front panel though had been roughly knocked back into shape and covered in filler.
To remove the front panel I had to unbolt it from the top section and drill out the spot welds on the side.
As the new repair panel doesn't come with the inner wind support section I had to drill out the spot welds an remove it so I could attach it to the new section.
After removing it I had to straighten it up from the previous accident repair. A couple of mins in the vice and jobs a good'un.
As I couldn't weld the inner wing bracket onto the new front I opted for some metal set to stick it on. Anyone who's used metal set knows how strong it sets so should be more than up to the task.
Once that had set I used rivets instead of the spot welds to reattach it to the wing top.
Once that was back together I shot a bit of primer over both wings and job done.
I do have some more stuff to upload to this thread but need to get the pics off my camera before I can post it up.
Finished the drivers door repair by first cutting out the rusty sections and cleaning up the inner skin face. The door skin has to be carefully pealed back from the frame to get access to the bottom section of the door.
Then gave the inside a coat of corroless to try to help protect it a bit
A new repair section from YRM was then welded in and few patches at the top were also welded in.
Once the welding was done the skin was folded back down over the frame.
I did start to repair the rust in the p/s door but ended up just buying a replacement. The p/s door had been repaired by the previous owner and after looking at it it was clear they had welded the repair section in upside down. This meant the slopped section of the repair was on the bottom and not the inside. Always wondered why that door caught at the bottom when you closed it. Rather than hack all that out and have to wait for a new repair section I found a replacement door locally that was cheap so thought that was the better option.
Next up was the p/s wing repair. The wing had also obviously been repaired before as it has had a new side to it. The front panel though had been roughly knocked back into shape and covered in filler.
To remove the front panel I had to unbolt it from the top section and drill out the spot welds on the side.
As the new repair panel doesn't come with the inner wind support section I had to drill out the spot welds an remove it so I could attach it to the new section.
After removing it I had to straighten it up from the previous accident repair. A couple of mins in the vice and jobs a good'un.
As I couldn't weld the inner wing bracket onto the new front I opted for some metal set to stick it on. Anyone who's used metal set knows how strong it sets so should be more than up to the task.
Once that had set I used rivets instead of the spot welds to reattach it to the wing top.
Once that was back together I shot a bit of primer over both wings and job done.
I do have some more stuff to upload to this thread but need to get the pics off my camera before I can post it up.
