2006 L322 TD6 No Crank

Evening All,

As the titles suggests really, car has been working fine, today took it out and parked it up at a mates at 8:30am, popped up the road at lunchtime, half a mile or so stopped and started fine. Tea time the wife started it drove it 100m to mates garage and turned it off. I jumped in 10 minutes later, turned the key and nothing happens, there is a really faint beeping sound from near the key when you turn the key to start but nothing happens, I can't hear anything else like relays clicking or the usual sounds you get with a flat battery.

Key fob locks and unlock the car fine, key turns in the ignition and everything looks and feels like it does when it starts, I have wiggles the shifter up and down in case it was not detecting it is in park and checked fuse 18 is intact. I put on my diagnostic tool and under the immobiliser section I have B1103-14 Enable Crank relay short to ground or relay always open - intermittent. I cleared this and tried to start the car and the same error comes back up.

Anybody know where the Enable Crank Relay is situated? I looked for a starter relay but in the dark got baffled by Google and gave up. Could the problem be something else that I should be looking at?

Had to leave the car at my mates but will return tomorrow to try to get it started if anybody can suggest things I try to find the fault.

Thanks in advance

I would start with charging the battery up and making sure it is 100% a OK and charging properly when you get it started

I think it may be part of the imobilizer. Not sure if all TD6 years are the same

Thanks for the reply, can't see it being the battery, car hasn't been driven since last Friday, really frosty over weekend so I would expect non start this morning, not tonight, been 9 degrees all day here.

The workshop manuals suggest the front fuse box in the glove box is split, but not how, in there are relays, one is for the starter but I don't get how you get to the additional bit where the relays are?

Does anyone know as Dr Google is not much help, my guess as we get no reaction to the key turn is a relay isn't telling the starter to turn the alternator

Not in drive, is it?

Thanks for the suggestion, but no I ran the gear shift up and down in case it didn't get it was in park. Also had handbreak on and foot on the brake peddle.

Something is telling the starter not to turn or it is and it ain't turning. My guess, starter relay but I can not seem to locate it and the workshop manual and all the forums seem vague about a relay and or it's existence.

Try unplugging your battery for about 20 minutes then reconnect, move ignition key to position 1 for 20 seconds then turn off again, repeat on to position 1 procedure twice more. Then try a proper start, hopefully it will COLD start the brain into a full reset, you might have to wait a while for evrything to get back to normal should it start properly, it is also worth turning your steering lock to lock a couple of times to help reset your air suspension...hope this helps!

After all those short hops, it is quite likely that the battery is low, that is the place to start by checking the voltage.
Ignition switch failure is also common which may produce the fault you have.

So went back to the car this morning, started fine no issues so can't be the battery as it untouched overnight. I drove home and it was OK, turned it off outside the house and now it won't start again. I guess I need to investigate further if the starter is getting a crank signal

Lezley said:

So went back to the car this morning, started fine no issues so can't be the battery as it untouched overnight. I drove home and it was OK, turned it off outside the house and now it won't start again. I guess I need to investigate further if the starter is getting a crank signal

Click to expand...

Maybe start with the ignition switch.

What is the test procedure for the switch, is it just a case of lifting the center console to gain access to the wires on the back of the switch and test with a volt meter or is it more complex than that?

Lezley said:

What is the test procedure for the switch, is it just a case of lifting the center console to gain access to the wires on the back of the switch and test with a volt meter or is it more complex than that?

Click to expand...

That's the way to do it. You really need RAVE circuit diagrams to know what pins become live as the key is turned.

I will take a look at it and come back with the result or further questions if I get stuck.

Thanks

Is the key in the upper dash or near the gear lever?

Hello Mark,

By the gear shift stick.

Thanks

We had a 2008 or 9 in with the same issues but the key was in the upper dash... 10hrs to get in and find corrosion inside the ignition plug. Causing a intermittent start problem. Half the dash would work but no start. It would start first thing when the humidity would make the circuit and then would dry out causing a bad circuit in the plug.. Check the plug to ignition barrel for any green or discolouration.

Good shout mate thanks for the advice, I am going to take a look tomorrow to see if I can figure it out.

I did have a similar issue at Christmas after doing a bit of not very deep wading, it would start fine from cold but once warm it would crank but not start, if you left it alone for about 10 minutes it would then start OK again. That issue seemed to right itself once everything dried out, when it happened the head lining under the bonnet was dripping wet but is now dried out.

This is different as it won't crank at all but could all be related to the same thing, obviously it was cold this morning when it started and was warm when I got home after a 20 minute drive when it wouldn't restart. Last night it was only moved about 100 yards so probably wasn't warm but maybe if it is corrosion it might be creating heat due to high resistance which might be affecting things.

I'll let you know how I get on.

The diagram I posted above shows the crank cct

Thanks for that

Probably a silly question but I am going to ask anyway.....

Do the numbers on the diagram relate to anything physical on the car?

They are the numbers of the pins on the connectors. The ignition one goes to a fuse so that's easy to check. The one you need to check goes to the ECU circled in the full diagram at post #3