2005 TD4 Auto - 3000rpm & Check Engine Light :(

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jtanner

Member
Posts
15
Hi Guys,

2005 FR1 Facelift TD4 Auto, 92,600 miles :

So yesterday my Freelander seemed perfect, today however, just pulled off from my drive and as soon as it hit 3000rpm the check engine light came on and refused to go past 3000rpm. If I drive carefully it will reach speeds up 70 - 80 no probs, and drives perfectly fine.

It's only when I put my foot down it seems restricted and hits 3000rpm and the check engine light turns on. The light turns off if I ease off the accelerator.

Drove like this for about half hour. Dropped my Dad off where he wanted, then I pulled over for 2 mins, and tried a few "tests" on the way home. After it had been running for half hour it improved slightly. For the first 3 gears it was fine, getting into 4th was a struggle. It would stutter at almost 4000rpm before finally plonking itself roughly into 4th with a flash of the check engine light. A few more times of pulling over to get a clear run etc and on the way home, it seemed to be happening at 4000rpm & struggling to change from 2nd to 3rd and then 3rd to 4th (struggling at the gear change point I think and the light would come on - this was foot flat to floor so that it did not change at 2500rpm but instead would change later).

I've read something about the fuel pump so wondering if someone could give me a guide? I read it's O/S/R Wheel Arch but I see nothing?

I plugged in my Bluetooth OBDII code reader, and using Torque (Android app) read the fault codes, but there are NONE listed. It has no fault codes.

I double checked this by plugging in my PLX Wifi OBDII reader and used Dash Command for iOS which also returned no faults.

Any ideas? I've not heard any odd noises and has been running perfectly well up until this experience. No smoke etc either. If it wasn't for this it would appear to be running fine. :- /

Any help much appreciated.


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Just had to do the pick up journey (so half hour each way) and this time it ran *almost* perfect. No check engine light came on but it did struggle with gear changes at the 4000rpm mark. It felt like it was really struggling, or miss-firing or something. Definitely had a moment of weakness and struggled a little.

I've also found in the RAVE manuals that it's actually on the RIGHT (Driver) side so NSR not OSR - do I just take the wheel off, then the plastic trim and find it or what?
 
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Could also be the turbo actuator sticking or the high pressure rail sensor. Need to monitor live data for low fuel pressure, high fuel pressure and turbo boost to try and identify which one is causing the issue.

Fuel pump on a Td4 is in the rear wheel arch in the right hand side as you sit in the car (which in the UK is off side)
 
Could also be the turbo actuator sticking or the high pressure rail sensor. Need to monitor live data for low fuel pressure, high fuel pressure and turbo boost to try and identify which one is causing the issue.

Fuel pump on a Td4 is in the rear wheel arch in the right hand side as you sit in the car (which in the UK is off side)

Do'h I was getting my OS / NS muddled up. I eventually found a part in a RAVE PDF that said OSR (Driver side wheel arch) and user Arctic2 in another thread has posted some pics so I've sussed that out now.

Next question then is what should I be looking for? Torque provides real time information so what sort of values should I be looking for for each of those you've mentioned. For example, what is the "normal" and what is "problematic"

Many thanks in advance
 
What you described is what happened to me.

One day out of the blue the engine wouldn't rev over 3000rpm and the eml light came on. Ease off and it was fine.

It was then ok for about 3 months, tgdn it happened again, but got more consistent. Finally it wouldn't rev over about 1500-2000 rpm.

I changed the low pressure fuel pump in the offside rear wheel arch on my UK '06 auto.

It has been perfect since and I've now done over 12,000 miles since I changed it

It is an easy, but fiddly job to do. Be prepared to get covered in diesel!
 
What you described is what happened to me.

One day out of the blue the engine wouldn't rev over 3000rpm and the eml light came on. Ease off and it was fine.

It was then ok for about 3 months, tgdn it happened again, but got more consistent. Finally it wouldn't rev over about 1500-2000 rpm.

I changed the low pressure fuel pump in the offside rear wheel arch on my UK '06 auto.

It has been perfect since and I've now done over 12,000 miles since I changed it

It is an easy, but fiddly job to do. Be prepared to get covered in diesel!

Thanks Epicuser, I'll order a fuel pump Monday and fit it during the week I think.

Did you buy OEM? OEM part is pretty expensive (average £130) compared to one off ebay.

Bosch is £133.20
(Bosch Land Rover | Euro Car Parts UK?s No.1 Car Parts Retailer)

Compared to ebay (unbranded I presume but includes a filter too):
LAND ROVER FREELANDER 1 TD4 REMOTE DIESEL FUEL PUMP & FILTER (02-06) - WFX000181 | eBay

Where did you buy yours?

Many thanks in advance
 
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I bought mine from Terrain Vehicles in Bexhill. I went for OEM. I paid more than that!

The cheap ones don't seem to last very long and tend to be noisy according to other members who have used the cheap eBay ones, so I went OEM.
 
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