2000 RPM max

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roger01

roger01

Member
Posts
47
Location
Wombwell, Barnsley, South Yorkshire
Hi I've had a 2001 2.5 HDSE auto for many years, been laid up maybe 4 years or so (leaky airsprings and fuel pump playing up) although not on the road always fired up and shunted up and down the drive every few months. Finally got around to replacing the air springs, OH the brakes, new pump in the tank fuel flter etc, probably with being sat lopsided for a while the EAS was locked out so no go from the ride hight button/switch and the max speed message on the dash, reset with RSW and fine, message gone, EAS up and down at the push of a button and stays up for weeks, still fires up at the first touch but doesn't want to rev above 2000 rpm, cleaned the MAF and the EGR to make sure nothing was sticking/clogged but still flattens out at 2k, she's no longer a daily driver (got a 322 for that) just like to get the old girl back on the road, she's family, any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated.
 
roger01 said:
Hi I've had a 2001 2.5 HDSE auto for many years, been laid up maybe 4 years or so (leaky airsprings and fuel pump playing up) although not on the road always fired up and shunted up and down the drive every few months. Finally got around to replacing the air springs, OH the brakes, new pump in the tank fuel flter etc, probably with being sat lopsided for a while the EAS was locked out so no go from the ride hight button/switch and the max speed message on the dash, reset with RSW and fine, message gone, EAS up and down at the push of a button and stays up for weeks, still fires up at the first touch but doesn't want to rev above 2000 rpm, cleaned the MAF and the EGR to make sure nothing was sticking/clogged but still flattens out at 2k, she's no longer a daily driver (got a 322 for that) just like to get the old girl back on the road, she's family, any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Disconnect the MAF and try it. The MAF will run on default settings. Don't try using one of the cheap import replacements as not very good and don't last long. In my experience cleaning has not always worked. I've run with MAF disconnected for without mishap until a OEM has been sourced 2nd hand
 
roger01 said:
Hi I've had a 2001 2.5 HDSE auto for many years, been laid up maybe 4 years or so (leaky airsprings and fuel pump playing up) although not on the road always fired up and shunted up and down the drive every few months. Finally got around to replacing the air springs, OH the brakes, new pump in the tank fuel flter etc, probably with being sat lopsided for a while the EAS was locked out so no go from the ride hight button/switch and the max speed message on the dash, reset with RSW and fine, message gone, EAS up and down at the push of a button and stays up for weeks, still fires up at the first touch but doesn't want to rev above 2000 rpm, cleaned the MAF and the EGR to make sure nothing was sticking/clogged but still flattens out at 2k, she's no longer a daily driver (got a 322 for that) just like to get the old girl back on the road, she's family, any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
Unplug the MAF and see if it is different, also check the MAP sensor. Needs diagnostics, could be in limp mode due to a duff sensor or corroded connector.
 
Hi Guys, thanks for the replies, sorry for the delay been out of town a couple of days, tried with the MAF unplugged and no change, the pipework to the MAP was replaced maybe 6/7 years ago at the same time I did the leak off pipes and all looks ok, is there anyone in the Wombwell - Barnsley areas with a Nanocom for the Diesel it looks like that may have to be the next step, not asking for a freeby of course.
 
Next check would be rubber turbo hoses internally. Turbo to intercooler / cooler to inlet. They just held on with jubilee clips all you need is a screwdriver.
If you can get the intercooler out check/flush same time all the better
 
roger01 said:
Hi Guys, thanks for the replies, sorry for the delay been out of town a couple of days, tried with the MAF unplugged and no change, the pipework to the MAP was replaced maybe 6/7 years ago at the same time I did the leak off pipes and all looks ok, is there anyone in the Wombwell - Barnsley areas with a Nanocom for the Diesel it looks like that may have to be the next step, not asking for a freeby of course.
Click to expand...
Have you checked the spigot in the manifold that the MAP pipe goes to is clear.?
 
Hi everyone, sorry for the long delay but close family health issues over the past few months put this on the back burner, so had all the Turbo pipes off, intercoler clean, all ok Turbo blows a storm etc., still 2K max revs but now found the supply to the MAP sensor (term 3 white + and term 2 br/g 0v only getting 5.4 volts), meter battery to pin 2 shows battery volts so not aground high resistance/bad earth prob, sure I've seen somewhere that the supply should be 12v and the signal back to the ECU should be up to a max 5v on pin 1, so it's looking like a plug/socket problem somewhere along the line.
 
Hello again, lifted the ECM out and tested from the plug/connector (C0411) to the MAP plug, continuity 0.2/03 ohms including the test leads so no probs there but still only 5.4 volts when I plugged it all back in, tried a temp 12v to the MAP supply but still 2K revs max so I am well open to suggestions.
 
roger01 said:
Hello again, lifted the ECM out and tested from the plug/connector (C0411) to the MAP plug, continuity 0.2/03 ohms including the test leads so no probs there but still only 5.4 volts when I plugged it all back in, tried a temp 12v to the MAP supply but still 2K revs max so I am well open to suggestions.
Click to expand...
Are you sure that the MAP sensor should have a 12 volt supply? If not and you applied 12 volts the sensor is probably toast.
 
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Hi only going on various threads I have red and several mention 12v supply and a max 5v back on the signal line, but thinking it through if a sensor went sc with a 12v supply then you would get 12 back into the sensor input which I doubt it would like so in retrospect a 5.4v supply would actually make a lot of sense, it was 5.4 on the supply before and it's still 5.4 now so possibly the sensor may have been toast anyhow. I intend to dig out some of my old test gear and monitor the out on the signal line at various revs (up too 2K of course) and see if the map sensor is actually working.
 
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