2000 Model Year P38 ABS Fault...

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Doo

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Evenin all... As per subject, I have an ABS fault which is apparently the FR sensor.

However, this all came about not long after I had her steam cleaned underneath to get rid of oil that had leaked out of the gearbox cooler and was blown back by the fan. Had to clean the mess to try and discover "where" the leak(s) was (were).

Anyway, a few months down the line I was getting intermittent ABS faults. ALWAYS worse when reversing. But I could go neutral, engine off, restart and it was reset. Now, 9 times out of 10 it stays on.

So, I figure the water got in and caused rust either on the ring itself or under it (on the shaft) which has swelled it and snapped the ring.

However, I think the collective knowledge on here could point me in the right direction and say yay or nay....:cool:

Is there any hope I could simply pop the end of the shaft out and find the reluctor ring just needs a clean or am I more likely to face having to replace more??

And since I have never done a shaft on a P38, is it a big mental job or simply a case of wheel off, caliper off, disc off, grot shield off and undo the nuts & bolts to get to the end of the shaft??

I can get an end kit for about 40 quid.

Thanks all :)
 
Could just be corrosion in the connector if you've been under it with a steam cleaner.

That was the 1st thing I checked, but it was way up in the bay and the pins were gleaming silver. I didn't go near the connectors, only underneath the chassis....
 
Unlikely to be the reluctor ring, more likely connectors or a duff sensor. Diagnostics would give you the answer.

Diag simply said Front Right sensor (I can't remember exactly what it said) fault.

I don't want to be buying a new sensor to find it's something else though :confused:
 
Swap sensors over, see if the fault moves with it

Bit worried about knackering up the sensors & the brass bushey bits... Is there an easy method of popping them out, or should I have a new sensor at the ready?
 
New sensors at the ready they ether come out easy or a right pig.

Yeah, that was my thought. Bit of a bugger to knacker a sensor to find it's actually a broken ring though :(

I just figured that since it started appearing not too long after the steam cleaning that it was related. I have been doing some digging and found all manner of nastie's out there, what with rust on the end of the drive shaft swelling up and breaking the ring, to having them break the teeth on the sensor :eek:
 
Well, thanks to Ian McKee on fb, I may be closer to the fault.

I am leaning towards an accumulator fault after some pointers...well, actually, an in depth fault finding guide.

I realise there are other issues I should have mentioned, but I am doing so in the hope it may help someone else figure out their own issues.

If the lights (ABS & TC) go out when moving forward then I am in luck, but what happens is I get the shudder through the brake pedal and the ABS pump buzzing away even though the road is dry, then the pedal softens up a bit and I stop on a sixpence.

As long as I've owned the car it's had a stiff pedal, but I've not had another 38 to compare against. My sister did point this out when I 1st got the car, but I figured then, perhaps the L322 just has a better brake system....

Anyway, this suggests my accumulator is on it's last legs and it would make sense that it's been getting worse slowly.

So, I will test it by the following method, thanks to Ian McKee.

Check the pump & Accumulator
Switch the ignition to position & you will hear the pump start to run.
Time how long it takes before the pump switches off.
( should be no more than 20 seconds. ( Tip- the shorter the time the better the condition of the pump & Accumulator assembly)
If the pump takes more than 20 seconds to stop this would indicate that you have a possible Accumulator problem.

I should have had an inkling, but to be honest, as I said I didn't have anything to compare it to.

I'll let you all know if this is the cause.
 
I put a new accumulator on mine, I only get around 4 pedal pushes before the pump starts.
I put a brand new one on mine last year and similarly only get about 4 pushes before the pump kicks in. I did fill it with brake-fluid too (with a syringe), before I put it on.
As for the ABS issue in the earlier pages, I had the same thing on OSF wheel. Pulled the Sensor and had a good look down the hole at the transducer/reluctor ring. All good down there as far as I could see.
Put a shiny new sensor in and the fault was gone. About £15 as I recall.
 
Well, I dumped the system pressure (30 pumps of the brake pedal). And switched the ign on, 54 seconds to build pressure and ONE press of the pedal and the pump came back on.

I'd say the accumulator is somewhat shot :rolleyes:
 
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