2.25, Ex MOD Timing (24v)

Hi All,
So as some of you may know, i've rescued a series 3 ffr thats been languishing for some time.

It's had a new carb fitted but i'm pretty positive that it's been set to get it running and not set up correctly.

The engine runs really lumpy under on idle, the blowing exhaust is not helping. Once the engine is warm, the idle gets way worse. Stinks of fuel, blows a bit of black smoke when picking up from the rubbish idle so i'm assuming the simple things need resetting first.

Problem is, it's a 24 volt with all the military distributor cap, leads and plugs.
I'm thinking that i should start off with the carb settings, then the timing.

Whats the best way to approach the carb settings and the timing on this thing!?
J.

The basic setting for a card is turn the mixture screw all the way in then 1 1/2 turns out then alter tick over with the tick over screw
That should have it running good enough while every thing else is checked and set up
then fine tune the mixture after

I have not worked on a 24v system before
Is the ignition system 24v or is there a dropper fitted
You will need a 12v feed for a strode timing light
Dont know about checking dwell angle may just have to use feeler gauges

The 12V for the timing light can come from another car battery if you don't have easy access to 12V.

To do the job properly you need a strobe gun for timing (and decide where you want the timing!? I go for around 7-8 BTDC, ignore book/comic which is for 3 star fuel) and have a reasonably accurate tachometer (i.e. nearest 10rpm) i.e. an automotive multimeter.

As well as getting timing right it is worth checking the points gap (or dwell if you have a multimeter) as if that is out it will run like a bag of ****e.

The exact instructions will depend on what carb you have and what emissions control stuff is fitted (if any).

Without emissions control you normall aim for an idle speed around 550rpm, with 800rpm.

The alternately adjust mixture screw for fastest, smoothest idle, then reduce throttle stop to bring idle speed back to where you want and repeat until no more adjustment.

The starting point will depend on your carb but 1 and a half turns to 2 and a half turns out on both to get started will usually get it to start.

When making the final adjustments it is absolutely imperative that the engine be FULLY warmed up (not just sat idling for a few minutes). I usually go for a flat out run to the top of the hill and back again before making the final adjust.

You'll probably find that whoever did it last time did it with the engine cold and that it is set overly rich as a result.

D

Out of interest dose any one know if the ignition system is 24 volt or is it just 12v fed off one battery

The coil would have to be 24v or drooped down with a ballast resistor
The points would have to have a good condenser
If electronic ignition the stuff in the dizzy would have to be 24 volt

Yes i could google it but wheres the fun in that

So,
I bit the bullet. It's now in the shop. A specialist called JSF, lovely people and I can tell the instantly know their stuff.

They've fitted a new dizzy cap, rotor cleaned up the points and have been fiddling with the carb.
Problem is, it's a cheap, zenith copy and despite their trying, it's tipping too much fuel into the intake. I'm not guilty.
I told them I have the old carb and the asked for photos since it might be worth overhaulng that instead.
It's a zenith but it might be better quality than the one fitted. I just don't know. Started another thread on how to tell if a carb is an original factory fitted item or not. It looks like it covered some serious miles so it couldn't have been that bad!
The exhaust manifold is cracked so getting anew one of those.