1999 P38 Multiple Issues - Not sure if they're related

Hi All,

Spent a while perusing and have multiple issues with my 99 P38 4.6HSE, which seem to have been getting worse over the past month, i'm not sure if they're related.

The issues started when my trip computer failed or at least the button on the stalk has. Pressing it will not cycle though the modes, although occasionally when i next start it up the mode will have changed in the display. I've put this down to one of those things and largely ignore it.

Last week on startup i've noticed a lot of relay like clicking coming from the drivers side dash which seemed to stop after about 5 minutes. The next time i drove it, there were no issues. The OH drove it the other week and said on her return journey the battery light was flickering. Not flashing, just like there was a bad connection. I started it the same evening with no issues at all.

I came to take the dog out this afternoon, started with no issue and noticed the clicking noise again. the car had been parked in access mode, so i pressed the button to raise the EAS and nothing happened, just flashing in the "normal" position. Unloaded the dog and sent the OH off with him for a walk whilst i investigated. Putting it in reverse i heard what sounded like the EAS pump, but VERY loudly. Putting it in park it stopped. It probably wasn't the EAS pump, but was a vibration or resonation sound. Putting it in reverse again, no problem, drove around the block, the suspension sent up to normal. Pulled over, cycled the suspension through extended back to Access and back to normal no problem. A bit more driving and another test and noticed that dropping to Access was fine, but getting back to normal or extended took an age. Sat back on the drive way, i noticed the compressor was hot and cutting in an out constantly (roughly 10 seconds between cycles 20 Secs on 10 off etc). The 5th Valve (the one nearest the back of the EAS unit seems to be clicking a fair bit)

Not sure if it's related to any of the above, but with the bonnet open the dash display was cycling between Speed 20 (the limiter setting) and Bonnet open very quickly.

Reading on here it sounds like i have a leak, possibly in the tank (air bags are pretty new), but need to do some more checking. Havent turned up much about the clicking behind the dash or the Trip computer issue. Hopefully not a BECM problem otherwise it's going to be expensive i think.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Ok, so i've done a bit of further diagnosis on the EAS issue. The time elapsed between today issue and the last drive is 3 days. When the system is up to pressure it seems to operate fine. It allows 1 full cycle from extended to Access and back to normal.

I opened the tailgate and started the engine, the compressor kicked in for around 5 minutes and stayed off, from what i can tell this is pretty standard. After this test i determined the cycle as above.

With the doors closed and the car in extended mode the compressor does not cut out for longer than around 10 seconds and gets very hot. I repeated the test in normal mode and the same was true.

To my mind this suggests the system is struggling to maintain pressure in the tank with self leveling enabled, what do you think?

I removed the pump and tested the output with my finger, the pressure doesnt feel massive, but i can feel force against my finger when the compressor is running, so i think this is ok. I've sprayed the valve block and cant see any signs of leaks, i've also sprayed the tank joints and they seem ok too.

I've left the car parked in extended height and the drivers door ajay (interior lights off lol) to see if there are any obvious drops over night, i've measured the arch height on all 4 corners at 17-19 cm all round in this mode.

Logic suggests a leak rather than anything else, unless anyone has any other suggestions, but i cant see how the tank would be drained by any other means.......

Re your electrical issues get your fuse box out and check for dry joints and burning. see my old thread for info

Check the technical section for Wammers EAS How To. Do the compressor test. Rather than leaving a door open you can just pull the delay timer relay from under the passenger seat. That way you know the battery won't be drained when testing for leaks.

While you're about it, best check battery is good and holding charge and alternator output is at or above 14.2V, although it is possible you may have the smaller one with only 13.8V. Anything below that and your alternator is on the way out.

You should not be able to block the compressor output with your finger. If you can, you need to replace the piston seal (and preferably the cylinder), or get a replacement pump.
As for your electrical issues, they seem unrelated to me and I second the advice you've gotten about fuse box and battery voltage, and I add another tip or two:
Check multi-connector under RHS kick panel for moisture and corrosion. Check RHS floor carpet for moisture - leaks from heater matrix or pollen filters can get into your BECM and cause all sorts of trouble. Check that all ground connections are tight and corrosion-free.

Good luck

Grrrrrr said:

Check the technical section for Wammers EAS How To. Do the compressor test. Rather than leaving a door open you can just pull the delay timer relay from under the passenger seat. That way you know the battery won't be drained when testing for leaks.

While you're about it, best check battery is good and holding charge and alternator output is at or above 14.2V, although it is possible you may have the smaller one with only 13.8V. Anything below that and your alternator is on the way out.

Click to expand...

99 4.6 should have 14.5 volts output from alternator.

Hi All,

Thanks for this, sorry for not responding sooner, it's been a busy week. Made a bit of progress on this. She's been sat all week and not driven, but started this morning no problem. It had been parked in Normal and had dropped slightly but levelled as soon as started so no worries there. Carpet is dry, but i managed to get a multimeter on the battery this morning when running and showed 11v which seems low. The alternator is kicking out 14.5v at 2000rpm so that seems ok.

Relays were clicking like buggery this morning. I took the lid off and the first 3 yellow relays on the left (1-3) appeared to be clicking. I removed the smallest one (2 i think) and they all stopped clicking. I believe this is an Aircon Relay. The clicking has only every been evident inside the vehicle and felt it unlikely it was relays in the fuse box i could hear. I need to check all the relays, but i'm thinking the next step would be to replace the battery before i start poking with the EAS any further.

Is there any thing i need to be cautious off when replacing the battery, eg radio codes or EAS codes etc, or should a straight swap be ok?

Thanks!

stevej69 said:

Hi All,

Thanks for this, sorry for not responding sooner, it's been a busy week. Made a bit of progress on this. She's been sat all week and not driven, but started this morning no problem. It had been parked in Normal and had dropped slightly but levelled as soon as started so no worries there. Carpet is dry, but i managed to get a multimeter on the battery this morning when running and showed 11v which seems low. The alternator is kicking out 14.5v at 2000rpm so that seems ok.

Relays were clicking like buggery this morning. I took the lid off and the first 3 yellow relays on the left (1-3) appeared to be clicking. I removed the smallest one (2 i think) and they all stopped clicking. I believe this is an Aircon Relay. The clicking has only every been evident inside the vehicle and felt it unlikely it was relays in the fuse box i could hear. I need to check all the relays, but i'm thinking the next step would be to replace the battery before i start poking with the EAS any further.

Is there any thing i need to be cautious off when replacing the battery, eg radio codes or EAS codes etc, or should a straight swap be ok?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Slacken the negative lead but don't remove it. Switch ignition on and off then disconnect battery within 17 seconds before alarm has chance to set.

Thanks Wammers, i assume this will avoid the EKA issue, but i'll need to re-code the radio..........if i can find the code

stevej69 said:

Thanks Wammers, i assume this will avoid the EKA issue, but i'll need to re-code the radio..........if i can find the code

Click to expand...

That is another problem. Some use another battery jumped to the cables to maintain power.

Found all the codes (kindly left by the previous owner in the handbook), but 2 problems, 1) the battery terminal leads are siezed (although the engine is hot i'll try when its cold) 2) the terminals on the new battery are the wrong way round!

If i put the battery in the other way, it doesnt look like there will be enough slack on the battery cables to connect to the front of the battery (terminals are currently on the back edge), there's also not enough to swap them around.

One thing i did notice is the current battery is 570Amp 70Ah battery but the one i purchased from Halfords (using their lookup) is 900Amp 100Ah and is considerably larger. I'm wondering if this is part of the issue. The current battery was fitted in Jan 2014, but has had a hard life. The crank sensor failed en route home from Cornwall and required several long Crank Sessions to fire the engine after it died several times. The missus has been running around in it all day with no issues, i took a voltage reading on the battery at idle and when running and it was 13.8v compared to the 11.5v this morning after sitting for a week, so i'm fairly convinced the clicking of relays is down to poor battery voltage and the EAS issues may be related to this too, does this sound feasible?

stevej69 said:

Found all the codes (kindly left by the previous owner in the handbook), but 2 problems, 1) the battery terminal leads are siezed (although the engine is hot i'll try when its cold) 2) the terminals on the new battery are the wrong way round!

If i put the battery in the other way, it doesnt look like there will be enough slack on the battery cables to connect to the front of the battery (terminals are currently on the back edge), there's also not enough to swap them around.

One thing i did notice is the current battery is 570Amp 70Ah battery but the one i purchased from Halfords (using their lookup) is 900Amp 100Ah and is considerably larger. I'm wondering if this is part of the issue. The current battery was fitted in Jan 2014, but has had a hard life. The crank sensor failed en route home from Cornwall and required several long Crank Sessions to fire the engine after it died several times. The missus has been running around in it all day with no issues, i took a voltage reading on the battery at idle and when running and it was 13.8v compared to the 11.5v this morning after sitting for a week, so i'm fairly convinced the clicking of relays is down to poor battery voltage and the EAS issues may be related to this too, does this sound feasible?

Click to expand...

You have the wrong battery take it back and get one with the terminals in the correct place. Larger battery is better but it needs to be the correct configuration or you are just giving yourself problems..

Already in the boot to go back. I've never really looked at terminal position before, i guess i've just been lucky. All the ones on the Halfords Site have terminals this way around, so i guess none will fit. I'll go somewhere "proper" i think

Battery Megastore. Someone on here will tell you the best one to get. Next day delivery for about £80 or similar.

Just had a thought, which RF receiver have you got fitted? Old one with interference would kill your battery PDQ. Burn your lock motors out too.

Battery megastore can advise on the biggest battery that will fit. I think mine, as advised by Data gives 1000 CCA I think and works a treat.