1998 freelander 1.8 not starting. what can it be?

Recent head gasket change I doubt. It did a run round the block fine when I got it. The cam seals (dizzy side) are only half in where they should be causing a leak, the coolant is water, the oil is dirty and there is nothing attached to the throttle body at all to filter air. it wouldn't surprise me if it was still on its first head gasket. On 88k now and hasn't been looked after but that's in the process of being changed

Dizzy cap, arm, ngk bkr6e plugs and leads arrive Thu/Fri. Fingers crossed it starts up.

Had a problem with my lawnmower similar (don't laugh they all work the same way) ****ed about with it for days before taking to a mower mechanic who had it fixed in an hour. It was the coil. I checked it was giving a spark and thought it was OK but the spark was weak according to him. Have you changed the coil packs.

Got my cap, arm, plugs and leads today. Fitted them already, still no difference. Fuel is running pretty low so I'll stick a tenners worth it in as I've changed the fuel pump so the lines to the injectors will be dry. See if that helps, could also be a weak spark from the denso unit

My penny-worth.

Engine won't run if it can't breath. Exhaust system is not blocked is it? bunged up Cat' converter?

The HG may not have been changed but you say the cam seals are not seated correctly. They may be replacements. When refitting them, those cam pulleys could have been refitted incorrectly. Red cam seals to the dizzy side, black seals to the cam belt side. It's an easy thing to check.

under bonnet cut out switch not faulty / damaged?

Is the inlet pressure vacuum line attached to the ECU - not damaged?

Temp sensors - inlet air temp?, coolant sensor for the ECU on head outlet elbow?

Crank position sensor?

Lamda / oxygen sensor connected and undamaged.

Ivac? system clean? blocked switch or piping?

Answers in bold below

htr said:

My penny-worth.

Engine won't run if it can't breath. Exhaust system is not blocked is it? bunged up Cat' converter?

New exhaust fitted manifold back

The HG may not have been changed but you say the cam seals are not seated correctly. They may be replacements. When refitting them, those cam pulleys could have been refitted incorrectly. Red cam seals to the dizzy side, black seals to the cam belt side. It's an easy thing to check.

It has black seals on the dizzy side, not sure on the cambelt side

under bonnet cut out switch not faulty / damaged?

No idea?!?!

Is the inlet pressure vacuum line attached to the ECU - not damaged?

Yes, fully checked and connected

Temp sensors - inlet air temp?, coolant sensor for the ECU on head outlet elbow?

changed CTS, not air inlet

Crank position sensor?

Not checked.

Lamda / oxygen sensor connected and undamaged.

New lambda

Ivac? system clean? blocked switch or piping?

Click to expand...

Thing is, when it got delivered, it ran once jump starter. Idled fine after 20 minutes so I cantxsee timing being out if I drove it a little with no issues

jda070504 said:

Thing is, when it got delivered, it ran once jump starter. Idled fine after 20 minutes so I cantxsee timing being out if I drove it a little with no issues

Click to expand...

I think you are just throwing solutions at this without thinking.

All a petrol engine needs is air, petrol and a spark at the right time

Unless its mechanically completely busted, or has a potato rammed on te exhaust pipe, the valves will work to get the air in and out enough to work, so that leaves petrol and the spark.

If the plugs when removed stink of petrol its getting petrol

Which leaves the spark. Thts the most likley thing since ts contrlleed by software.

Another option is that a cold start sensor has failed and its not getting enough fuel.

Any lights on on the dash? Have you have the codes read? have you taken a plug out to see if its sparking, and if its wet with fuel or not?

Just checked now. Spark at each plug. Fuel to injector rail, no fuel from injectors. I've got the fuel line that goes Into the rail currently in a bottle, If I leave the key in position 2, disconnect the battery and reconnect it, you hear the stepper motor, simultaneously fuel flow is constant till the stepper stops. Cranking gives a constant flow of fuel. Connect the fuel line to the rail, crank the engine for 10 seconds, remove plugs and bone dry.

What's causes the injectors not to inject? This is my second complete inlet manifold and TB so isn't the fuel rail or sensors on it as I know they worked on the last vehicle

jda070504 said:

Just checked now. Spark at each plug. Fuel to injector rail, no fuel from injectors. I've got the fuel line that goes Into the rail currently in a bottle, If I leave the key in position 2, disconnect the battery and reconnect it, you hear the stepper motor, simultaneously fuel flow is constant till the stepper stops. Cranking gives a constant flow of fuel. Connect the fuel line to the rail, crank the engine for 10 seconds, remove plugs and bone dry.

What's causes the injectors not to inject? This is my second complete inlet manifold and TB so isn't the fuel rail or sensors on it as I know they worked on the last vehicle

Click to expand...

The ECM determines when to operate the injectors
based on the signal it receives from the CKP sensor.
The ECM provides an earth signal for the period the
injectors are required to be open, the injector
solenoids are energised and fuel is sprayed into the
inlet manifold onto the back of the inlet valves. The
ECM carefully meters the amount of fuel injected by
adjusting the injector opening period (pulse width).
During cranking, when the engine speed is below
approximately 400 rev/min, the ECM increases the
injector pulse width to aid starting. The amount of
increase depends upon engine coolant temperature.
To prevent flooding during cranking, the ECM
periodically inhibits the operation of the injectors.

jda070504 said:

Cheers, looks like the crank position sensor will be at fault. Is this the sensor on the middle of the back of the block, or is it the one on the back of the block on the gearbox side right next to the gearbox adaptor plate

Click to expand...

The CKP sensor is mounted at the rear of the engine with the sensor tip facing the engine side of
the flywheel and is secured in the casting with a single screw. The sensor tip of the CKP sensor is adjacent to a profiled
target ring formed on the inner face of the flywheel.

This-

jda070504 said:

This-

Click to expand...

Yes........ pay attention to screw's pretty stuck

Got the screw out but the sensor is stuck, cancel that. Got it out, this is the good one out of my parts Hippo. Now to get the bad one out

jda070504 said:

Got the screw out but the sensor is stuck, cancel that. Got it out, this is the good one out of my parts Hippo. Now to get the bad one out

Click to expand...

Use WD40...

jda070504 said:

Just checked now. Spark at each plug. Fuel to injector rail, no fuel from injectors. I've got the fuel line that goes Into the rail currently in a bottle, If I leave the key in position 2, disconnect the battery and reconnect it, you hear the stepper motor, simultaneously fuel flow is constant till the stepper stops. Cranking gives a constant flow of fuel. Connect the fuel line to the rail, crank the engine for 10 seconds, remove plugs and bone dry.

What's causes the injectors not to inject? This is my second complete inlet manifold and TB so isn't the fuel rail or sensors on it as I know they worked on the last vehicle

Click to expand...

Mmm. Immobiliser mebbe?

So NONE of them are injecting???

I think its code read time. Any engine lights up?

No lights on the dash. Think it's getting close to mobile mechanic time. key to position 2, fuel pump primes and sends fuel to fuel rail. Turn the key and sparks received at plugs, no fuel injected. CTS and CPS now changed, ecu and immob work on seperate vehicle which I'm getting all the parts from.

Stuck now

Use a multimeter to check if current flowing through the ckp sensor wires....

tonytherunner said:

Use a multimeter to check if current flowing through the ckp sensor wires....

Click to expand...

Ive disconnected the loom and fuel pipe from the inlet manifold and put them on the old inlet which i've just sat on top of the engine. Everything else is connected to the car as normal, just the sensor plugs and fuel pipe in the spare inlet. NOW...

If i disable the immobilser and crank the engine, fuel flows out the inlet for about 4 or 5 squirts and stops, i cannot make this happen again unless i take the key out, let the immobilser kick in and repeat the process. I'm guessing this is because repeating the process causes the pump to prime again putting fuel pressure back in the fuel rail?

Seeing fuel from the injectors, knowing a get a spark and not being able to get them to work together is getting god damn frustrating,
.

I do really appreciate your advice on the matter

• The ECM also operates the engine
immobilisation circuits. When the ignition is
switched to position II, a coded signal is sent to
the ECM from the Central Control Unit (CCU). If
the coded signal does not match the signal
programmed into the ECM, the ECM disables the
fuel injection function.
NOTE: If an incorrect code is received, but
the key is turned very quickly from off to
crank, the engine may start for a very
short period, then stop. This is quite normal.

If it's not getting air open the windows before throwing the lighted newspaper into the back.