1995 RR 2.5DT P38A Starting Problem

Just joined and I must say I'm impressed. Anyway my 1995 2.5DT P38A is difficult to start. I have to turn the key on and off four times for a cold start. I have spoken to Land Rover dealer who recommended a non-return valve in the return line as I could see air coming back from the injector pump towards the fuel filter. I did this and its just the same. I have already replaced the fuel pump and drilled a small hole in the fuel cap. If I drive it flat out for a few minutes it starts to miss and die until I ease off and on two occasions has died completely, AA got it going but he didn't know how!
Any thoughts please, I'm pulling my hair out!!!

"as I could see air coming back from the injector pump towards the fuel filter"

If you can see air bubbles then it suggests a leak somewhere in the fuel system, sorry to state the obvious but....... I've got the same "T shirt", have a good look around for any leaks, however small.

Dave

Thanks Crewcab it was staring me in the face!!! Renewed the pipe from the Injector Pump to the fuel filter and it's fine now, simple as that I think I was looking for a bigger problem. Thanks again.

Well it lasted two days!!! It's back to the same problem, takes about 2 minutes of cranking to get it going or I have to turn the ignition on and off four times before it will start straight away. I did two things I found a pipe leaking air renewed it and I put a oneway valve in the return line to the tank to stop air coming back, this was a Landrover recomendation.
Is it possible for the injector pump to leak as I seem to have diesel coming from behind it!
Any thoughts would be most welcome.

Hello there

I have a very simalir problem

I have a 1999 2.5 DT BMW engine Range Rover.

When the car is cold the coil light will come on and it will fire no problem.

When it is wrm the coil light will not come on, and i have to crank it for 5-6 seconds before it will fireup?????

Also, if you rev it to 2000rpm then take your foot off, it will cut out once the revs have dropped???????

Any Ideas??

Well i can cure the hot start problems easy this is many a complaint from people i know, this envolves putting a relay in the circuit of the temperature gauge.its a bit more involed but quite easy i will dig out my wiring diagrams,this envoles splicing some wires in the ecm adding a relay and a resistor,what happens in effect is that after car is warm the temp sensor runs through the relay and resistor lying to the ecm to say its slightly colder this brings on the glow plug light but you can turn the key straight away and it starts almost imediatley will have to look up my wiring book i will let you know soon,just look for fuel leaks or is your pump in boot getting weak.

That would be great mate, cheers

Spoke to the garage that i bought mine from today and they are having it in to take a look over the fuel pump and see if that could be the problem

tigapiglet, thanks for your thoughts, I think TIFF will benefit from the wire upgrade my problem is something else! I have fitted a new fuel pump, although I may have an air leak on the return side because the union on the top of the pump was corroded! I have ordered new pipes and unions etc and I hope this cures my problem.
Thanks again.
cliffman

Well i will find all the details for the wiring mod and post it on the site for everyone if enough people are interested might be able to source a good supply of relays and resistors glad to help.

tigapiglet


If you could did the diagrams out, that would be great mate. Thanks

thats not a problem be able to dig papers ouy after easter as i 4 got today tiff.

OK Pal

Message to tigapiglet.
My RR has the same problem. OK when cold but a bad starter when warm.
Would be grateful if you could send me the wiring diagram or tell me where I can get it sorted.

Hi to all the members that would like the mod keep your eyes peeled next week as long as you have a basic understanding of electrics its an easy mod and i will give full instructions,i dont think many people no of the mod but i have done a few now,and it works great without affecting anything else,i got the mod instructions in french,and lets say my french is not great but managed to work it out. will post soon so keep an eye out see if im worth my salt.

Well, i have just dropped my Range Rover BACK to the garage to see if they can sort the starting problem out as it is still under warrenty.

They said it is going to a specialist who thinks there is a problem with the fuel pump???????????????????????????????????
I personally cant see how that would effect the starting problem though

Any views

Hi the fuel pump starts for about 20 secs or so when ignition first switched on,it then requires inputs from certain sensors not 100% what sensors are needed on this model but normaly a crank sensor a cam sensor fuel tempt sensor maf/iat coolant sensor and more, sensor all give inputs to the ecm and the ecm takes readings and compares to the map written to the eeprom memory if its missing a signal or intermitant it defaults to safe setting and or shuts engine down(safe mode) sounds like your fuel pump is missing a stay on signal from the ecm due to missing signal from ecm,im not to up on the older stuff not being cheaky as i love my old 300 just never work much on p38 diesels normally a good motor apart from glow plugs, ecm hot start fix,the odd service thats all i do on them i hope this helps you to understand a bit all the best.

I had the same problems.
First I changed the hoses in the tank (they had leaks). That solved the problems for one year.

After one year it didn't start until the battery was drained.
I changed the leak oil pipes that connect all injectors (don't forget the last rubber thingy - mine was broken). That helped a bit.

The final cure was to change the 4th injector (the one with the sensor).
The sensor was broken...
You don't have to buy the expensive LR spares. Bosch produces them for BMW and you can buy them either at a Bosch dealer or at BMW. I bought mine at Bosch and it was half the price that LR wants for it.

Now it starts every single day without a problem.

BTW: the hot-start-problem is an old BMW 2,5 feature. 5-10 seconds are average ;-)=

Re comments from Tigapiglet March 2005 - I hope are still fit and well
P38 DSE starts ok when cold, needs 30 sec when warm!
Hi,
I bought a P38 2.5DSE 19th Jan for crossing Europe!! ?

Seemed in good nick but still working down the list of problems.

Mine starts ok after two 'glows' but forever when the glow light isnt on.
I read in your thread about tricking the Coolant Temp Sensor value.
Do you have instructions please? My poor battery and I thank you in advance

Euro Rover

The Glow plugs only get used when the engine is cold, First thing in the morning etc. Sounds like you got the hot start problem. Theres a black box you can get off ebay which cures this. HERE
More detail on vehicle would be an advantage too.

I found the link to the coolant temp mod in another thread .
Posted it back here for reference. Just hope it works!!

http://www.tyke.org.uk/landrover/

Thanks Tiga and thanks for a great web site.