On or around Sat, 19 Aug 2006 14:55:53 GMT, "Derek"
<
[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:[email protected]...
>> On or around Sat, 19 Aug 2006 11:35:37 GMT, "Derek"
>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>>
>>>"beamendsltd" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:1397bc584e%[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> They did? The woodruff key problem was (and still is) people not
>>>> tightening the pulley correctly after a timing belt change. The
>>>> 200Tdi is bomb proof, the only fault being a tendency to blow
>>>> the head gasket on the r/h side by No.4 cylinder at around 70
>>>> to 100,000 miles. It's no big deal as long as the engine is not
>>>> allowed to run out of oil when it starts running on its own
>>>> oil!
>>>
>>>The frightening part about that was two of them had just been fitted
>>>with reconditioned engines as is Kato and I noticed the bottom
>>>pulley was not running true and yes I tightened up the bolt about
>>>half a turn, shows that not all monkeys are in the zoo.What I should
>>>have done was locktite'd the bolt ( none left in the box unfortunately)
>>>Kato is running a bit lumpy this morning not using oil or water so
>>> I'm suspecting a mucky injector, put some cleaner in and drained the
>>>filter I'd better check for a blow rhs ( thats offside Richard ?) just in
>>>case
>>
>> The pulley bolt on the 300 TDi is supposed to be loctited and tightened to
>> the sort of torque you can't readily do. basically, it amounts to "find
>> the
>> biggest socket handle you can and tighten as tight as possible". Unless
>> you're very strong, you won't overtighten it, even with a handle about 3ft
>> long.
>> --
>> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>> "Quos deus vult perdere, prius dementat" Euripedes, quoted in
>> Boswell's "Johnson".
>
> I checked the book of words for the TDi 300 80 NM then a further
> 90% , 80 NM thats roughly 59ft lbs not really unattainable
>with a good bar wonder what the extra 90% dials in tho?
>pass me the bananas then please
it thought it was 180 degrees. ISTR that I failed to get it to go as far as
they said, using a strong 1/2" drive breaker bar with extra tube on it, so
total length about 3-4ft. Part of the problem is getting the engine to stay
still. 4th gear and handbrake hard on, and even then the whole engine and
box moves on the mountings. I got it to the point where with that leverage
it wouldn't actually move any more with me hauling on it.
Loosening it is less problem, but has a risk factor if the tools aren't up
to it: you need a strong 27mm socket - the ones they sell for shifting
diesel injectors are good [1] - and a high-quality breaker bar. line the
whole thing up, with the bar horizontal and about 2" above the NHS (left)
side chassis rail, and then having disconnected the cut-off on the pump for
saftey's sake, turn the key.
Note,it doesn't work having the bar in contact with the rail, the gap lets
the engine start turning and the shock is what loosens the bolt.
'course, if ytou have the necessary kit, then you pull the rad and put a sod
off air impact gun on it. Probably that's also the best way of getting it
tight, but it's not under control unless you have a good enough gun that you
know what torque it produces and can translate the torque-plus-angle into
plain torque settting. I guess you could have marks on the socket, and
having done the 80Nm bit, watch it rotate using the gun.
[1] also excellent for doing landy wheelnuts.
--
Austin Shackles.
www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
"Where they make a desert they call it peace" Tacitus (c.55 - c.117)
Agricola, 30
