1972 Range Rover bolts

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R

Rich

Guest
Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this year
of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.

Rich


 

"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:%[email protected]...
> Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
> were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
> year of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>
I've got a '75, but can't tell you what size those bolts/nuts are because I
chucked them out years ago. Replaced them with proper length ones that don't
have the mountings wearing on the thread. This was responsible for most of
the rattles. Could never understand why they didn't make the mountings so
that everything sat on the shank area. I had to use a few spacer washers,
but it was well worth it.

PhilD


 
In message <%[email protected]>
"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
> were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this year
> of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>
> Rich
>
>

I can't tell you the sizes of all of them (they, the sizes,
are not all in the parts book), but the parts are all the
same up to 1985 - despite the parts book showing a separate
drawing for early rear radius arms, springs and bump stops.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
www.radioparadise.com - Good Music, No Vine
Lib Dems - Townies keeping comedy alive
 
On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this year
>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.

later radius arm bolts are 16mm.

Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't fit
as well as the 16mm ones.

Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\
>> http://www.schlockmercenary.com/ << \ ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!
 
Austin Shackles wrote:
> On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>
>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod etc on this year
>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>
>
> later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>
> Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't fit
> as well as the 16mm ones.
>
> Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
> pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.

OP's bolts will be 5/8" for the radius arm and the axle end of the
rear arm. The panhard rod bolts will be 9/16", I think.

The difference between 5/8":M16, and 9/16":M14 will not matter as far
as the bracketry is concerned as it's probably worn anyway. There is,
I think an issue with the bolt size and the bushes e.g M16 bolt won't
go through the early bush. Get the bushes first and find suitable
bolts afterwards.

It mattereth not whether it's UNF or UNC provided the bolt and nut
threads match. LR used UNF for what it's worth.

Phil's comment about not taking the side load on the threads is valid.
If you can arrange the grip length/spacers to avoid it it's worth while.
 

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:p[email protected]...
> On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>>year
>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>
> later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>
> Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't
> fit
> as well as the 16mm ones.
>
> Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
> pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
> Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...

Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine, would
they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high tensile
bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure the
bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this a
better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??

Rich


 
PhilD wrote:

> Could never understand why they didn't make the mountings so
> that everything sat on the shank area.

I think the idea was that the side load was carried by friction with the
plate onto the bush centre tube and nut. Certainly the pressure endways on
the bush centre should be enough to prevent any movement. But despite this
I agree that having the threads through the hole at one end is poor
engineering.
JD
 
JD wrote:

> PhilD wrote:
>
>
>>Could never understand why they didn't make the mountings so
>>that everything sat on the shank area.
>
>
> I think the idea was that the side load was carried by friction with the
> plate onto the bush centre tube and nut. Certainly the pressure endways on
> the bush centre should be enough to prevent any movement. But despite this
> I agree that having the threads through the hole at one end is poor
> engineering.
> JD

That's certainly the theory and it's the only way that the rubber in
the bush does any serious work. The most important thing in dealing
with these and similar bushes is to maximise the contact area between
the bush's centre tube and the bracketry. It's only about 3mm wide at
best. If you want to spend time making any improvements in this area
the best thing is to reclaim the holes in the bracketry and ensure
that the bush centre tube has something flat and solid to bear
against. Then keep the bolts tight.
 
"PhilD" <phild351(removethis)[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:%[email protected]...
>> Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>> were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>> year of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>
> I've got a '75, but can't tell you what size those bolts/nuts are because
> I chucked them out years ago. Replaced them with proper length ones that
> don't have the mountings wearing on the thread. This was responsible for
> most of the rattles. Could never understand why they didn't make the
> mountings so that everything sat on the shank area. I had to use a few
> spacer washers, but it was well worth it.
>
> PhilD

Ok I like the idea of spacing to get the shank through the otherside of the
axle brackets ect, but moving on a bit, what are the opinions on blue
polybushes, yes I know this has been done to death but obviously they are
easier to fit and replace in the "field" do they really tighten up the
looseness in a slack Range Rover does stay tight, and what is the life
expectancy for normal on road with a bit of playing at weekends is it as
much as the original metalastic bushes?

Rich


 
On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>
>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>news:p[email protected]...
>> On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>>>year
>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>
>> later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>
>> Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't
>> fit
>> as well as the 16mm ones.
>>
>> Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
>> pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>> --
>> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>> Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>
>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine, would
>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high tensile
>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure the
>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this a
>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??

If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've seen UNF
ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.

can you measure the thread pitch?
--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
Too Busy: Your mind is like a motorway. Sometimes it can be jammed by
too much traffic. Avoid the jams by never using your mind on a
Bank Holiday weekend.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.
 
"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
>>
>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>news:p[email protected]...
>>> On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>>> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>
>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>>>>year
>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>>
>>> later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>>
>>> Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't
>>> fit
>>> as well as the 16mm ones.
>>>
>>> Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
>>> pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>>> --
>>> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>>> Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>>
>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine, would
>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
>>tensile
>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure the
>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this a
>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
>
> If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've seen
> UNF
> ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
>
> can you measure the thread pitch?

Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I don't
have....
I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.

Rich


 
Rich wrote:

> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>
>>
>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:p[email protected]...
>>>
>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and bolts
>>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>>>>>year
>>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>>>
>>>>later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>>>
>>>>Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't
>>>>fit
>>>>as well as the 16mm ones.
>>>>
>>>>Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
>>>>pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>>>>--
>>>>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>>>>Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>>>
>>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine, would
>>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
>>>tensile
>>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure the
>>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this a
>>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
>>
>>If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've seen
>>UNF
>>ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
>>
>>can you measure the thread pitch?
>
>
> Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I don't
> have....
> I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.
>
> Rich

This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?

The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.
 


"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rich wrote:
>
>> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:p[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and
>>>>>>bolts
>>>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>>>>>>year
>>>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>>>>
>>>>>later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>>>>
>>>>>Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't
>>>>>fit
>>>>>as well as the 16mm ones.
>>>>>
>>>>>Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
>>>>>pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>>>>>--
>>>>>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>>>>>Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>>>>
>>>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine, would
>>>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
>>>>tensile
>>>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure the
>>>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this a
>>>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
>>>
>>>If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've seen
>>>UNF
>>>ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
>>>
>>>can you measure the thread pitch?
>>
>>
>> Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I
>> don't have....
>> I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.
>>
>> Rich
>
> This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?
>
> The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
> make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.


Ok so will standard metric 1mm pitch High Tensile bolts and nylocks of the
correct size do if they go thorough the bush tubes and using heavy washers
to get the shank through the otherside of the mounting hole ?

Rich


 
Rich wrote:

> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>Rich wrote:
>>
>>
>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>
>>>
>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>news:p[email protected]...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>>>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and
>>>>>>>bolts
>>>>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on this
>>>>>>>year
>>>>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they didn't
>>>>>>fit
>>>>>>as well as the 16mm ones.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about 1mm
>>>>>>pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>>>>>>--
>>>>>>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>>>>>>Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>>>>>
>>>>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine, would
>>>>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
>>>>>tensile
>>>>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure the
>>>>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this a
>>>>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
>>>>
>>>>If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've seen
>>>>UNF
>>>>ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
>>>>
>>>>can you measure the thread pitch?
>>>
>>>
>>>Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I
>>>don't have....
>>>I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.
>>>
>>>Rich
>>
>>This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?
>>
>>The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
>>make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.
>
>
>
> Ok so will standard metric 1mm pitch High Tensile bolts and nylocks of the
> correct size do if they go thorough the bush tubes and using heavy washers
> to get the shank through the otherside of the mounting hole ?
>
> Rich

The pitch is not an important issue. Don't waste your time trying to
replicate the 5/8"-18 tpi (that's about a 1.4mm pitch) of your
original UNF bolts in a metric form. Either repeat the 5/8" that
you've got in either UNF (18 tpi) or UNC (11 tpi) or go for the
commonest metric.

The most readily available M16 bolts will be the 2mm pitch. There are
1.5mm and 1mm pitch versions but expect to struggle to get them
(especially without paying a premium). LR used the 2mm pitch.

Bolts should be at least grade 8.8 if metric.

Be careful about selecting the nylocs - most of those around are like
cheese. To get the most out of your bolt you want a class 8 or higher
nut to match your 8.8 bolt. If you've gone for 10.9 bolts there are
class 10 nuts.

 

"Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Rich wrote:
> >
> >> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >> news:[email protected]...
> >>
> >>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
> >>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> >>>>news:p[email protected]...
> >>>>
> >>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
> >>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and
> >>>>>>bolts
> >>>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on
this
> >>>>>>year
> >>>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they
didn't
> >>>>>fit
> >>>>>as well as the 16mm ones.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about
1mm
> >>>>>pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
> >>>>>--
> >>>>>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
> >>>>>Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
> >>>>
> >>>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine,
would
> >>>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
> >>>>tensile
> >>>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure
the
> >>>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this
a
> >>>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
> >>>
> >>>If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've
seen
> >>>UNF
> >>>ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
> >>>
> >>>can you measure the thread pitch?
> >>
> >>
> >> Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I
> >> don't have....
> >> I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.
> >>
> >> Rich
> >
> > This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?
> >
> > The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
> > make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.
>
>
> Ok so will standard metric 1mm pitch High Tensile bolts and nylocks of the
> correct size do if they go thorough the bush tubes and using heavy washers
> to get the shank through the otherside of the mounting hole ?
>
> Rich
>
>

Blimey, can you get metric bolts of those diameters with 1mm pitch threads,
you'll have to go easy on the tightening torque or you'll squash the bushes.

Martin


 
Oily wrote:

> "Rich" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
>>
>>"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
>>news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Rich wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
>>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>news:p[email protected]...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>>>>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and
>>>>>>>>bolts
>>>>>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on
>
> this
>
>>>>>>>>year
>>>>>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they
>
> didn't
>
>>>>>>>fit
>>>>>>>as well as the 16mm ones.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about
>
> 1mm
>
>>>>>>>pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>>>>>>>--
>>>>>>>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>>>>>>>Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine,
>
> would
>
>>>>>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
>>>>>>tensile
>>>>>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure
>
> the
>
>>>>>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this
>
> a
>
>>>>>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
>>>>>
>>>>>If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've
>
> seen
>
>>>>>UNF
>>>>>ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
>>>>>
>>>>>can you measure the thread pitch?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I
>>>>don't have....
>>>>I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.
>>>>
>>>>Rich
>>>
>>>This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?
>>>
>>>The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
>>>make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.
>>
>>
>>Ok so will standard metric 1mm pitch High Tensile bolts and nylocks of the
>>correct size do if they go thorough the bush tubes and using heavy washers
>>to get the shank through the otherside of the mounting hole ?
>>
>>Rich
>>
>>
>
>
> Blimey, can you get metric bolts of those diameters with 1mm pitch threads,
> you'll have to go easy on the tightening torque or you'll squash the bushes.
>
> Martin

You actually loose so much torque in underhead and thread friction
that it won't make much difference!
 

"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote
>
>
> You actually loose so much torque in underhead and thread friction
> that it won't make much difference!

The frictional area is still the same but the fine thread pitch will
effectively gear it down so you will overtighten it if you're not careful.

"loose" I think you mean lose, it won't come loose either with a finer
thread.

Martin


 
On or around Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:30:46 +0000, Dougal
<DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> enlightened us thusly:

>This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?
>
>The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
>make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.

It's irrelevant if you're changing the bushes - if you have bushes with
accurate 5/8" holes, the 16mm bolts won't go through them.

If you're changing bushes as well, then it's easy, get bushes, get bolts
that fit.


--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
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"Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Rich wrote:
>
>> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>Rich wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>news:[email protected]...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 18:15:52 GMT, "Rich"
>>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>>>>>>news:p[email protected]...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>On or around Sun, 29 Oct 2006 12:48:59 GMT, "Rich"
>>>>>>><[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Good afternoon to all, can anyone help me, what size's of nuts and
>>>>>>>>bolts
>>>>>>>>were used on the trailing front and rear arms, panhard rod ect on
>>>>>>>>this
>>>>>>>>year
>>>>>>>>of Range Rover or are they specific to the vehicle.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>later radius arm bolts are 16mm.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Early ones MIGHT be 5/8" UNF - I've seen 5/8" UNF used, but they
>>>>>>>didn't
>>>>>>>fit
>>>>>>>as well as the 16mm ones.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Undoing a nut will tell you, if the thread looks quite fine, about
>>>>>>>1mm
>>>>>>>pitch, it's UNF and if it looks more coarse it'll be metric.
>>>>>>>--
>>>>>>>Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.net my opinions are just that
>>>>>>>Travel The Galaxy! Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Ah so it looks like I have UNF then as the threads are quite fine,
>>>>>>would
>>>>>>they be metric fine pitch ?? I presume I could just use metric high
>>>>>>tensile
>>>>>>bolts of the correct length instead as per the post above and ensure
>>>>>>the
>>>>>>bushes sit on the shank of the bolts rather than the threads, is this
>>>>>>a
>>>>>>better option or do I use the correct original spec bolts ??
>>>>>
>>>>>If you buy replacement genuine ones they're apt to be metric. I've
>>>>>seen UNF
>>>>>ones, on a 110, but I've no idea if they were original.
>>>>>
>>>>>can you measure the thread pitch?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Yes I can measure the pitch on the ones I have but cant on the ones I
>>>>don't have....
>>>>I will let you know when I find the thread pitch gauge.
>>>>
>>>>Rich
>>>
>>>This is becoming overly complicated. Did you see my earlier note?
>>>
>>>The thread form is irrelevant if you are changing bolts and nuts. Just
>>>make sure that the bolt fits through the bore of your bush.
>>
>>
>>
>> Ok so will standard metric 1mm pitch High Tensile bolts and nylocks of
>> the correct size do if they go thorough the bush tubes and using heavy
>> washers to get the shank through the otherside of the mounting hole ?
>>
>> Rich
>
> The pitch is not an important issue. Don't waste your time trying to
> replicate the 5/8"-18 tpi (that's about a 1.4mm pitch) of your original
> UNF bolts in a metric form. Either repeat the 5/8" that you've got in
> either UNF (18 tpi) or UNC (11 tpi) or go for the commonest metric.
>
> The most readily available M16 bolts will be the 2mm pitch. There are
> 1.5mm and 1mm pitch versions but expect to struggle to get them
> (especially without paying a premium). LR used the 2mm pitch.
>
> Bolts should be at least grade 8.8 if metric.
>
> Be careful about selecting the nylocs - most of those around are like
> cheese. To get the most out of your bolt you want a class 8 or higher
> nut to match your 8.8 bolt. If you've gone for 10.9 bolts there are
> class 10 nuts.

Right now I know where I stand, I think, so the only other thing to do is to
decide whether to fit Polybushes or original, the fact of pressing in and
out the original spec bushes does not enter the equation but I have never
used polybushes and might consider giving them a try to draw my own
opinions, I have heard good and bad about the poly type bushes and have
searched Google very confusing many swear by them and others hate them
!!!!!! :-((((
Don't know what to do !!!

Rich


 
Oily wrote:
> "Dougal" <DougalAThiskennel.free-online.co.uk> wrote
> >
>
>>You actually loose so much torque in underhead and thread friction
>>that it won't make much difference!
>
>
> The frictional area is still the same but the fine thread pitch will
> effectively gear it down so you will overtighten it if you're not careful.
>
> "loose" I think you mean lose, it won't come loose either with a finer
> thread.
>
> Martin

I'll admit to a spelling mistake! Lose was intended. (Too close to
bedtime.)

The effect of the fine pitch is well understood. In reality bolts of
that pitch are not going to be readily available and it is also too
'delicate' for this kind of environment.
 
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