Thanks chap.
How are you getting on with your tub? Have you had the chance to make repairs to it yet?
I'm planning to strip mine down to component parts - gonna be interesting (eeek)...
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon in Holland
- Thread starter Stretch
- Start date
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How are you getting on with your tub? Have you had the chance to make repairs to it yet?
I'm planning to strip mine down to component parts - gonna be interesting (eeek)...
LincolnSteve
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I've made a start but as usual lack of time is the problem. The chemical metal seems to have bonded the new aluminium plates really well and I got some rivets with big heads to spread the load. It's not as neat or original as I like but it's going to do the job I think. I will try to get some photos on soon.
Well I'm looking forward to your next installment.
I'm especially interested in the goo you are using.
I plan to use Duralac as an anti-corrosion paste between the steel and the aluminium parts on the Land Rover and really need to get some on order. Old fashioned Duralac is easy to get here in Holland but the new "Duralac Green" is the version I really want.
http://www.llewellyn-ryland.co.uk/downloads/DuralacGreen.pdf
I'm not sure if I can get it here in Holland at the moment - I've been emailing marine suppliers but haven't had any luck so far. I might have to get my Dad to send me some through the post (one company will send me some through the post but wants to have 115GBP for the postage alone because it is supposedly hazardous material - even though this is the "eco" version!)
The newer Duralac is meant to be a lot nicer to work with (no nasty chemicals) and like the aircraft grade jointing compound JC5A it isn't meant to dry out over time. For the price of a small tube (8 quid or so) it is a much more reasonably priced jointing compound too as JC5A is gonna cost the best part of 100 quid for a tin...
LincolnSteve
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That postage price is ridiculous! The stuff i'm using is little more than glorified filler but it grips like mad even before I got the rivets in. It then sets really hard (but also really quick). It's supposed to be possible to drill and tap it but I wouldn't trust that. I did have a nut and bolt through it to hold things in place and when I came to remove it I did have to undo it rather than just pull it out.
LincolnSteve
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210G / 180ml PLASTIC PADDING CHEMICAL METAL FILLER ADHESIVE NEW ( 2075534 ) ️This is the stuff but i'm not sure that link is correct.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222393564062?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Try that
Link worked. Interesting stuff - a bit like JB weld I guess.
This is the stuff but i'm not sure that link is correct.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222393564062?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Try that
You say it sets really hard - how do you think it will cope with vibration? My series 2a looks like it used to shake pretty badly - there's a fair amount of stress cracking especially where the rear cross member has been poorly replaced.
LincolnSteve
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I'm happy enough with it bonded and supported by a piece of aluminium each side. Then it seems to make a lovely strong sandwich of metal but if it was to be flexed too much I would worry about it cracking. I don't think vibration would be as bad as flexing.
From my perspective the good thing about all this is that you are so going to have your series three up and running before I get anywhere near having to use goo products. You'll be able to test it and report back (right?)
LincolnSteve
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Yeah, no problem. I hope to start making some faster progress soon. Longer days and warmer temperatures are definitely my good times.
Tell me about it - I'm most certainly a fair weather mechanic
Right better get some pictures in quick otherwise this page will end up being all chat! (And we all like pictures don't we?)
Nothing particularly interesting I'm afraid - just sometimes when there's only one spot weld and you don't have to drill you can save a lot of the under side...
Grind it thinner first
Twist
Nothing particularly interesting I'm afraid - just sometimes when there's only one spot weld and you don't have to drill you can save a lot of the under side...
Grind it thinner first
Twist
Before I pop off down to the Land Rover today I've had a bit of extra time to have a look at the pesky water pump rebuild.
Perhaps this too has been more trouble than it is worth?
Anyway - story so far - the first kit I got seemed to have the wrong seal in the box because when I fitted it the shaft could barely move. I then started a thread here and over on the series 2 club forum to find out if other people had had this trouble before - and specifically if anyone knew how big the gap between the shaft and the seal should be...
...I'm still not 100% sure how it is meant to be so I've decided to crack on and try it again with the new kit.
Putting the water pump back together is very simple - hydraulic press definitely makes it a doddle but with great care and sockets and a hammer you could do it too if you really wanted to (I'm not sure many people would)
First push the bearing and shaft into the housing - pressure on the outside of the bearing and not on the shaft
Shaft pokes out the bottom so make sure to support the casing over a hole
This time the seal fitted on with a firm push by hand - the socket is pushing on the outer edge of the seal and not the springy inner bit
Big gap between the seal and the shaft - fingers crossed the seal is indeed between the end surface of the seal and the impeller
(This was the point where I was wondering if some thick NLGI4 water pump grease would be a good addition - Green book doesn't say to do this but I was thinking belt and braces - probably not done or necessary - probably over thinking it - so didn't do it)
Now the drive flange bit
This time the end of the shaft is being supported and I'm pushing the flange onto the shaft - outer bearing and casing is free to spin
The tricky thing is "how far along the shaft does this bit go?"
The book specifies a dimension which is a bit smaller than that shown on the vernier in the picture - I've said it before and I'll say it again don't rely on me and my inability to read instructions: Check the book yourself and check the conversions from old money to metric too!
{Dear Santa please may I have a vernier caliper that reaches deeper than this one?}
The green book has another measurement for the position of the water pump pulley when fitted. This will be checked later on once I've got things back together again. I've already come up with several "making sure the pulleys are aligned" tricks...
...finally the impeller gets pushed on.
The end of the shaft conveniently poked just past the flange so it was easy to support whilst the impeller was pressed onto the shaft (casing and outer bearing free to spin)
Again the "how far does this bit go on the shaft" specification is important. See the green book for the correct feeler gauge size.
Start with the biggest feeler gauge size and don't go too far. If you make it too tight these crappily cast impellers are easy to break when you try to pull them away from the casing (I know this because I've taken these parts to bits more than once!)
As implied above this ain't over yet - the pulley alignment needs to be checked. This will be done at a later date.
Perhaps this too has been more trouble than it is worth?
Anyway - story so far - the first kit I got seemed to have the wrong seal in the box because when I fitted it the shaft could barely move. I then started a thread here and over on the series 2 club forum to find out if other people had had this trouble before - and specifically if anyone knew how big the gap between the shaft and the seal should be...
...I'm still not 100% sure how it is meant to be so I've decided to crack on and try it again with the new kit.
Putting the water pump back together is very simple - hydraulic press definitely makes it a doddle but with great care and sockets and a hammer you could do it too if you really wanted to (I'm not sure many people would)
First push the bearing and shaft into the housing - pressure on the outside of the bearing and not on the shaft
Shaft pokes out the bottom so make sure to support the casing over a hole
This time the seal fitted on with a firm push by hand - the socket is pushing on the outer edge of the seal and not the springy inner bit
Big gap between the seal and the shaft - fingers crossed the seal is indeed between the end surface of the seal and the impeller
(This was the point where I was wondering if some thick NLGI4 water pump grease would be a good addition - Green book doesn't say to do this but I was thinking belt and braces - probably not done or necessary - probably over thinking it - so didn't do it)
Now the drive flange bit
This time the end of the shaft is being supported and I'm pushing the flange onto the shaft - outer bearing and casing is free to spin
The tricky thing is "how far along the shaft does this bit go?"
The book specifies a dimension which is a bit smaller than that shown on the vernier in the picture - I've said it before and I'll say it again don't rely on me and my inability to read instructions: Check the book yourself and check the conversions from old money to metric too!
{Dear Santa please may I have a vernier caliper that reaches deeper than this one?}
The green book has another measurement for the position of the water pump pulley when fitted. This will be checked later on once I've got things back together again. I've already come up with several "making sure the pulleys are aligned" tricks...
...finally the impeller gets pushed on.
The end of the shaft conveniently poked just past the flange so it was easy to support whilst the impeller was pressed onto the shaft (casing and outer bearing free to spin)
Again the "how far does this bit go on the shaft" specification is important. See the green book for the correct feeler gauge size.
Start with the biggest feeler gauge size and don't go too far. If you make it too tight these crappily cast impellers are easy to break when you try to pull them away from the casing (I know this because I've taken these parts to bits more than once!)
As implied above this ain't over yet - the pulley alignment needs to be checked. This will be done at a later date.
I got distracted today.
I think it was the unbelievably red welding gloves that arrived in the post yesterday.
Little Red Riding Hood would be proud of those.
Made me focus on something else that is red that has been ****ing me off for years.
Sand blasting cabinet (yeah I've mentioned it before - and I know it isn't directly Land Rover related but I though some of you might like another diversion from the Land Rover blah blah - trying to save what I can blah blah - want it to be nice and original blah blah)
Anyway, these things are stupid. They are quite expensive for what they are. Having bought one I reckon they are poor value for money. The window gets knackered because the double sided sticky tape doesn't hold the sacrificial cellophane in place. The seals leak out dust. The filter clogs really quickly. But worst of all, because you can't see what's going on inside the daft thing, you end up spending ages systematically waving the pistol about whilst no sand gets drawn up the blinking tube!
The pick up tube lies horizontally in the bottom of the cabinet.
I don't think this is a good design so I'm going to pimp my sand blasting cabinet.
Bottom ooooot
Slots cut for bending
For those of you who were sitting at school thinking "who on earth is ever going to use bloody Pythagoras in real life" =>
(The answer was me!)
Cut cut
Bend bend bend bend
Tomorrow drill drill drill drill... ...drill... ...rivet rivet...
(Exciting eh? And yes I will make the legs longer too so it isn't a rocking sand blasting cabinet)
I think it was the unbelievably red welding gloves that arrived in the post yesterday.
Little Red Riding Hood would be proud of those.
Made me focus on something else that is red that has been ****ing me off for years.
Sand blasting cabinet (yeah I've mentioned it before - and I know it isn't directly Land Rover related but I though some of you might like another diversion from the Land Rover blah blah - trying to save what I can blah blah - want it to be nice and original blah blah)
Anyway, these things are stupid. They are quite expensive for what they are. Having bought one I reckon they are poor value for money. The window gets knackered because the double sided sticky tape doesn't hold the sacrificial cellophane in place. The seals leak out dust. The filter clogs really quickly. But worst of all, because you can't see what's going on inside the daft thing, you end up spending ages systematically waving the pistol about whilst no sand gets drawn up the blinking tube!
The pick up tube lies horizontally in the bottom of the cabinet.
I don't think this is a good design so I'm going to pimp my sand blasting cabinet.
Bottom ooooot
Slots cut for bending
For those of you who were sitting at school thinking "who on earth is ever going to use bloody Pythagoras in real life" =>
(The answer was me!)
Cut cut
Bend bend bend bend
Tomorrow drill drill drill drill... ...drill... ...rivet rivet...
(Exciting eh? And yes I will make the legs longer too so it isn't a rocking sand blasting cabinet)
LincolnSteve
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I like the new welding gloves.
I don't think I've admitted this in public before but one of my all time favourite smells is my welding gloves...... There I've said it.........
I'll get me coat.
I don't think I've admitted this in public before but one of my all time favourite smells is my welding gloves...... There I've said it.........
I'll get me coat.
Oh no! It is happening again. The exact same thing happened to a chap on a Mercedes forum I frequent.
We need to start a support group. It didn't end well for him, he'd sit in a dark corner all day and wait for his missus to come home so she "could wear the glove". 'Cos he lived in Kentucky he blamed it on Micheal Jackson and his little white glove - but we all knew it was the welding. The fumes got to him and he forgot the lessons taught to us middle class white boys in the 1980s by Grandmaster Flash and Melle Mel about not sticking things up ya nose...
...you need to get a grip before it is too late and it gets out of hand, they'll only point the finger at you when it goes wrong and then they'll (finger) nail you to the wall!
{Thank you very much - proceeds from all puns should be sent to BBC Children in need}
Nice fast show reference by the way - top marks!
Not done all that much recently again...
...but the holes are ready on the new bits of metal for the sand blasting cabinet. I made the legs too and even though it is really too cold to paint I managed to get some etch primer and top coat on the new parts.
(I hope it sticks - but hey this is the sand blasting cabinet not the series 2a)
Partly cos I couldn't find the same shade red (and I don't really like red as well) I've gone for the European trend of putting modern (architecture) next to old and making it stick out. So black the new bits are
######
Here are some sheet metal working considerations that have bubbled up to the surface during this little sideline project.
It might not be apparent to those who haven't done this kind of work before, but once you try this kind of thing you might wonder "how do 'they' cut nice long straight cuts in sheet metal"? Ideally you'd have loads of cash and be able to buy yourself a 40,000 quid hydraulic guillotine - something really nice that will cut stuff up to 3mm thick...
...but I guess for most of us that's a bit pricey and then there's the where would I put the sodding thing anyway problem...
...here's what I do =>
I reckon this is the cheapest way to get fairly OK about as straight cuts as you can get on a budget.
1st a fairly rough - but careful as possible - cut with an angle grinder
(Clamp the sheet firmly to a work bench)
The edges of the plate are nasty after you've cut them out. You could spend hours with a file trying to make them flat and straight if you wanted to re-live 1960s apprentice training...
...but with a hand shear you can whizz along a newly drawn line a lot faster
This method works quite well for thicknesses of steel up to about 2mm - thicker than that and most of these cheapo hand shears will blunt and slowly fall apart
#########
Hole considerations =>
(Again for those who might not know - I don't mean to be teaching people to suck eggs - so if you know already, please look away)
If you drill with a drill - more often than not you'll end up with a slightly oval hole
This isn't always a disaster but a nice proper round hole can help with riveting...
...'ere's a genuine round one!
The round 'ole was made with a hand punch. Well worth getting one of these in my opinion if you have to make many holes for riveting...
...it not only makes a nice round hole but does it a whole load faster than drilling them.
Downsides of using a punch like this - the hole needs to be quite close to the edge of the metal and it struggles to make holes in steel thicker than about 1mm. Again this type of equipment dies quite quickly if you try to get it to do heavier duty gauge metal.
...but the holes are ready on the new bits of metal for the sand blasting cabinet. I made the legs too and even though it is really too cold to paint I managed to get some etch primer and top coat on the new parts.
(I hope it sticks - but hey this is the sand blasting cabinet not the series 2a)
Partly cos I couldn't find the same shade red (and I don't really like red as well) I've gone for the European trend of putting modern (architecture) next to old and making it stick out. So black the new bits are
######
Here are some sheet metal working considerations that have bubbled up to the surface during this little sideline project.
It might not be apparent to those who haven't done this kind of work before, but once you try this kind of thing you might wonder "how do 'they' cut nice long straight cuts in sheet metal"? Ideally you'd have loads of cash and be able to buy yourself a 40,000 quid hydraulic guillotine - something really nice that will cut stuff up to 3mm thick...
...but I guess for most of us that's a bit pricey and then there's the where would I put the sodding thing anyway problem...
...here's what I do =>
I reckon this is the cheapest way to get fairly OK about as straight cuts as you can get on a budget.
1st a fairly rough - but careful as possible - cut with an angle grinder
(Clamp the sheet firmly to a work bench)
The edges of the plate are nasty after you've cut them out. You could spend hours with a file trying to make them flat and straight if you wanted to re-live 1960s apprentice training...
...but with a hand shear you can whizz along a newly drawn line a lot faster
This method works quite well for thicknesses of steel up to about 2mm - thicker than that and most of these cheapo hand shears will blunt and slowly fall apart
#########
Hole considerations =>
(Again for those who might not know - I don't mean to be teaching people to suck eggs - so if you know already, please look away)
If you drill with a drill - more often than not you'll end up with a slightly oval hole
This isn't always a disaster but a nice proper round hole can help with riveting...
...'ere's a genuine round one!
The round 'ole was made with a hand punch. Well worth getting one of these in my opinion if you have to make many holes for riveting...
...it not only makes a nice round hole but does it a whole load faster than drilling them.
Downsides of using a punch like this - the hole needs to be quite close to the edge of the metal and it struggles to make holes in steel thicker than about 1mm. Again this type of equipment dies quite quickly if you try to get it to do heavier duty gauge metal.
Does anyone have any tips on setting up the camshaft timing on the 3 MB diesel engines with out the flywheel fitted?
(Sorry being a bit lazy - I think I can probably work it out from the information in the Green Book even though it is written in such a way that the flywheel should be fitted)
(Sorry being a bit lazy - I think I can probably work it out from the information in the Green Book even though it is written in such a way that the flywheel should be fitted)
Link for a thread where some of you might be able to help =>
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-mb-diesel-engine-camshaft-timing-cheat.312337/
If you can that'll be great - if not I'll figure it out for myself. I'll be really surprised if someone hasn't already figured this out though.
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/3-mb-diesel-engine-camshaft-timing-cheat.312337/
If you can that'll be great - if not I'll figure it out for myself. I'll be really surprised if someone hasn't already figured this out though.
