110 Utility rear step issue

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adrian996

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Hi. I have a 2014 110 Utility. I’ve managed to get hold of a new LR rear single spring loaded step for the back to improve access to the rear.

The problem is that, on trying to fit the step, I notice that there are two vertical metal lugs towards the rear of each bracket that holds the pedal to the rear cross member.

This results in not being able to get the mounting brackets flat / flush to the underside of the rear cross member. It also means that the step would not be horizontal to the ground when in its down position and I would imagine that there would then be a lot of concentrated pressure on the underside of the rear cross member when you step on the step as the two metal lugs are quite small and sharp and would ‘dig in’ to the cross member under pressure(?).

I bought the step from a company that sells off genuine LR parts from Defenders that have been ‘jazzed-up’. I’ve contacted them but they tell me that they’re all like that.

Can anyone help me with this please?

Also, I received two original galvanised bolts and large washers with the step but no nuts.

I’ve looked on Google and there seems to be some nuts missing that might fit inside the cross member and maybe have locating nut profiles to stop them turning - as the holes in the cross member have a six-sided nut-shaped profile to them.

Thanks in advance!
 
Into those hexagon shaped holes goes riv nuts I think they are 10mm and use the hexagonal ones to stop them turning when you fit the step. Riv nuts squash during the tightening of the fixing bolts and attach themselves to the crossmember and will remain in situ if you have to remove the step in the future.
 
Hi Tim, thanks.

There’s a fixings and fastenings place near where I live, I’ll try them for some riv nuts.

Do you know about those two vertical metal posts near the back of the fixing brackets? They prevent the brackets sitting flat on the underside in the rear cross member and look like they could damage the cross member when pressure is applied to the step(?). Thanks again.
1518ACA4-37D6-4666-A48C-05164F1B92B0.jpeg
 
Presumably I’ll have to buy the tool that you need to fit the rivnuts also(?).

Can anyone post a pic of theirs and how it sits on the underside of the crossmember? Thanks!
 
No special tool use a set screw that is able to engage with all the thread in the riv nut a couple of good thick washers between the head of the riv nut and grease the thread. Ensure the riv nut is fully home in the crossmember and tighten the set screw you will feel the riv nut squashing when fully home stop remove set pin and fit step.
 
Rivnut tools cost a fortune.
Either do the tip above or another possibility is you may be able to feed the bolts through the crossmember?
Where do you live?
I've a rivnut tool here that would do the job (Telford).
I'd have to double check it will do M10 , pretty sure it does.
 
Is that pic above your step fitted?
If so, a washer between plate and crossmember will give the correct flush fit or grind a bit off the lugs?
 
Hi. Thanks very much for your offer. I can probably just feed the bolts through the cross member and put the nut on the outside.

I’m still just not sure about those two upright lugs though - they look like they’ll do the crossmember damage when I apply pressure to the step(?)
 
Flossie said:
Is that pic above your step fitted?
If so, a washer between plate and crossmember will give the correct flush fit or grind a bit off the lugs?
Click to expand...

No, that’s not mine but mine will pretty much look the same when I fit it. I was thinking of grinding the two lugs down/off to make the bracket flush but wanted to see if they all sit this way as it just looks wrong to me.

I didn’t want to grind the lugs down and then find that I’ve ruined the step for some reason.
 
Last edited:
As Tim4x4 says, the rivnuts have quite a thick flange which will make the step fit correctly, a washer would do the same if you use nuts and bolts instead.
 
adrian996 said:
Hi. Thanks very much for your offer. I can probably just feed the bolts through the cross member and put the nut on the outside.

I’m still just not sure about those two upright lugs though - they look like they’ll do the crossmember damage when I apply pressure to the step(?)
Click to expand...

adrian, don't modify the lugs it is like that for a purpose.
Whichever way you choose to fix the step either with riv nuts fitted or using washers as a spacer (the thickness of the washer should not be greater than the height of the lug to the top face of the step fixing bracket, ideally a little less than).
With the lugs being a little taller than the top face of the fixing bracket the step when fitted and pulled down ready to use will be at a slight angle higher at its most rear point.
Now when you stand on the step it will it will try to rotate about the fixing bolts. The two lugs now come into their own and are trying to resist this rotation.
There will be flex but the lugs contacting the crossmember and exerting an upward force will minimize this and the step which previously had a slight incline will now be level and safe to stand on. That's the theory behind the raised lugs.
Will they do damage to the crossmember yes. If you remove the step after a while of use the crossmember will have at least its paint removed and a shiny area where the lugs located to it. The least you can do in this area is keep it greased to stop it rusting.
 
Hi Tim. Many thanks, that explanation clears it up for me. Shame that the people that I bought the step from - or LR themselves - couldn’t explain it the same way to me, or at all to be honest!

I’m more likely to go with the nuts, bolts and washers route, I think! It’s a job for this weekend! The rear crossmember is very nicely Dinitroled but I’m going to think of something to give it that additional protection where those two lugs will sit.

Many thanks again!

Adrian.
 
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