110 TD5 Clutch Issues

Been a while since I've had any kind of clutch related issues so a lil rusty!

Noticed recently the clutch pedal drops straight to the floor and has begun making a bit of a whirring noise.

Got to double check everything when I get home. Any suggestions on what the issue is though?

Cheers.
Josh

First check has to be hydraulic fluid level in the clutch system. Next check will probably require two people, one to operate the clutch pedal and the other to observe what's happening at the slave cylinder. If it all looks OK so far, then it looks like you're going to have to dig deeper, probably having to separate the lump from the g/box to work out what's going on.

Whirring noise could be release bearing, perhaps the diaphragm springs have given up?

Possible yeah. I'll check fluid this eve. Doesnt feel like it slipping but does not feel right at all.

This cant be good. Clutch fluid is a black muck. Inside the master

That black muck is probably good news as it means your master cylinder rubber seals have disintegrated.....it's not your clutch. Just need a new master or a rebuild kit.

Yeah thats what I suspected. Going to flush the system and see whats what

Hi bud!

Please don't use britpart stuff for the clutch, the bloke I bought mine from replaced the slave and master with a britpart one and then after two months mine was doing what yours was!! I do use b/part stuff quite alot, but defo avoid them.in this case, waste of time! Easy change though, especially with an easy bleed!

I dont allow blue bag or allmakes on my landy! Cheers tho.

Will be going for TRW/OEM

Whilst it looks like the seals have failed and made the fluid go black, that doesn't explain the whirring noise. For about 18 months mine was making a curious rattly noise like someone shaking a rod with a handful of loose washers on it. Plus groaning noises when using the clutch pedal on cold mornings. On replacing my clutch at Christmas it became apparent that the dual mass flywheel had come loose, so the drive plate was very wobbly in relation to the bit that bolts onto the flywheel. The bits that people usually associate with clutch noise like the release bearing and the bush in the end of the crankshaft were as good as new, but I replaced them anyway. With a new DMF the whole thing is now much quieter. No untoward noises and no tinny rattle (I suppose you could call it a whirr) at speed. So don't overlook the dual mass flywheel where funny noises are concerned.

Fair point. Id rather avoid doing a clutch at the minute though!

Ordered new master and slave just incase. Trying to bleed the sod now

Mine was still driveable, it just made odd noises. I could probably have soldiered on with it for another few thousand miles. I'm pleased to say that my bite point is staying in the same place now and not creeping down closer and closer to the floor until I can't change gear at all, as it did a few times when I first put things back together. If I were doing it again, I'd start by adjusting the clutch so the bite point was fairly high in the pedal travel to allow it to sink a bit as it settles in.

lol mine does make a couple odd noises but I can't seem to trace them! Mainly the whirring noise, it happened after my radius arm bushes failed and damaged my rear diff. New diff and checked everything along the drive train, no play in anything as far as I can tell. 4k later and it still drives fine bar the clutch.

Just bled it, put a fair bit of fluid through in an attempt to clean out the black gunk, all the fluid that came out looked perfectly fine. Got some actual pedal feel back now, doesnt feel quite right but its 100x better than it was. Should last me a while at least. New AP master and TRW slave on the way, so if it drops again I'll replace the pair.

What I think I'll do is buy the DMF soon as I can afford it, then the rest of the clutch parts. So I have them ready and waiting for when they need doing. Spreads the cost into three parts which makes it a little more palatable!

@bankz5152
I'd be inclined to check the brake master cylinder too, just in case whatever was done to the clutch system hasn't been done to the brakes. It probably hasn't seeing as they are different master cylinders unlike the Disco 2 which shares a common fluid reservoir, but it'll just take a couple of minutes and it'll put your mind at rest.

Already been replaced earlier this year due to being unable to bleed the brakes, turned out to be shagged calipers.

Thanks though

bankz5152 said:

lol mine does make a couple odd noises but I can't seem to trace them! Mainly the whirring noise, it happened after my radius arm bushes failed and damaged my rear diff. New diff and checked everything along the drive train, no play in anything as far as I can tell. 4k later and it still drives fine bar the clutch.

Just bled it, put a fair bit of fluid through in an attempt to clean out the black gunk, all the fluid that came out looked perfectly fine. Got some actual pedal feel back now, doesnt feel quite right but its 100x better than it was. Should last me a while at least. New AP master and TRW slave on the way, so if it drops again I'll replace the pair.

What I think I'll do is buy the DMF soon as I can afford it, then the rest of the clutch parts. So I have them ready and waiting for when they need doing. Spreads the cost into three parts which makes it a little more palatable!

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I find that if you plan and buy things in advance you will never need them, its called insurance or sods law (take your pick)!

Kwakerman said:

I find that if you plan and buy things in advance you will never need them, its called insurance or sods law (take your pick)!

Click to expand...

I think the more spare parts you keep, the more likely that whatever breaks will be something you haven't got. Landy's Law.
It's a bit like having a socket set and the one you want is the only one that is missing.