10p to 15p engine swap

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Freelander1banger

Active Member
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102
Location
South England
Hi guys, my 10p engine is dying a painful death. Ive got a mate whos got a nice 15p engine but rusted chassis, so im having the engine. im taking the whole truck off him to do the job, will i encounter any issues? I know i need to swap the ECU, will i need to code this? if so i can i use my old MSB ecu to drive the truck with the 15p engine or will it be a non runner until coded? what other bits should i be swapping over? thankyou!
 
Hi, if you fit only the engine it will be driveable with the original ECU just not at 100% capacity albeit you might not feel much difference. To make the 15P run perfect you have to swap the ECU, the AAP/T(airbox) sensor and engine harness too also programming is needed to make it learn the security code unless you swap the BCU too but then you'll have to program the fobs.
 
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Hi, if you fit only the engine it will be driveable with the original ECU just not at 100% capacity albeit you might not feel much difference. To make the 15P run perfect you have to swap the ECU, the AAP/T(airbox) sensor and engine harness too also programming is needed to make it learn the security code unless you swap the BCU too but then you'll have to program the fobs.

Awesome, im taking it out the scrap car and gonna do water pump seals etc while its out then chuck it in the boot of the dying car and drive it to my dads workshop to get him to help me do the swap, then its an hour drive back. So sounds like ill be alright getting home, do i have to swap the entire harness or just the loom responsible for the aap sensor?
 
I haven’t any so far but was there anything in particular you wanted to know I’ll do my best to take photos of it going back in if needed? It’s all been fairly simple really I wish I didn’t pay someone to do my clutch a few months ago now lol
 
So I was doing this on my own and didnt get a chance to take any pictures as it was a right PITA to get back in, but theres plenty of pics out there and i think it easier to read and look so here goes;


Removing the engine;

My first attempt was pretty slap dash since it came out a scrapper, made it a bit easier by cutting the front top section out.

You need to remove the fan and radiator/intercooler if you care about the car.

Id also recommend removing the bonnet if you care about the car, it doesnt go up high enough otherwise and you risk over extending it and damaging things.

You need to remove the crank sensor plug (Bell housing).

You need to remove the grey multiple plug, the red ECU plug, and unbolt various wires from the fuse bolt and unplug the 2 plugs that go in there, also unbolt the negative off the chassis earth behind the ECU box.

You need to remove fuel lines, I had to bend the line off the cooler up a bit to get to it but its very malleable.

After unbolting the bell housing theres a sneaky little 8mm bolt that is under the turbo area holding the backing plate on.

I just unbolted my aircon lines as it needs a regas anyway but i guess you could just put this to one side.

A remote hose clamp tool is a MUST.

If your PS pump is good id just unbolt this from the engine to save the oil going everywhere tis very easy once its half out and you have an impact.

Then its just a case of lifting the engine out (the longer the crane reaches the better) and checking things havent been tangled etc as you go, I used a solid wooden plant to encourage the engine off the input shaft.



Installing the engine;

I found it much easier to install with all aircon pump/turbo/manifold etc off, I also left all the hose pipes off until it was in.

I had a right nightmare getting it to line up in the right angle, the easiest way I found was to hook it on the factory lift eye on the front and on the rear of the inlet manifold, then as it was almost there i stood on top of the car and used my body weight to tilt the engine as desired using the wooden plank to push it into the bell housing.



Differences I found;

Obviously you have the airbox sensor, But the aircon was also different (this could be as mines manual and this 15p car was climate controlled) so I couldn't use the 15p pump, and there is some metal dowels as it bolts in slightly differently, i just ground this flush and installed my 10p pump.

I also found the 15p has a EGR cooler, I used the 10p hoses to get rid of this entirely from the system (genuine land rover parts site is great for diagrams)

this one caught me out, the 15p loom doesn't have a negative wire for the oil pressure switch, well it does from the plug, but goes no where inside the conduit. I thought this was broke, turns out they no longer have a earth in the 15p looms as it just earths off the engine, so you only have the white wire connected.



What parts I needed:

This will be down to you but i just did all the easy cheap stuff, sump gasket, inlet manifold gasket, FPR gasket and orings, rocker cover gasket, I helicoiled the roto filter housing bolts as they always strip, rotofilter housing to sump tube gaskets, new exhaust manifold studs (one broke away and had to be drilled so I also helicoiled that, turbo to manifold gasket. If the engine was unknown I would of done the HG too but it came from a friend and he said it didn't use water, although I did see signs of it weeping from the drain plug behind the exhaust manifold so i removed that, cleaned it and put some instant gasket on and reisntalled.

What you'll need as a minimum;

If reusing your original clutch/flywheel you'll want new flywheel bolts and a spigot bearing.

New downpipe gasket.

I did this all with a HD engine crane, a Halfords advanced 200pc set, a 10-30nm torque wrench, 40-200nm torque wrench, and a half decent impact gun. So no mega gear required really.

Think it probable cost me about £100 or less after scrapping the car and selling some bits off it so not bad really, im still using my 10p msb ecu atm but will get my 15p nnn one in when i can find someone to code it and get it mapped.
 
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