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Freelander 1 1.8K Head Gasket Replacement

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by andyfreelandy, Apr 9, 2022.

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  1. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Started this job today on the Tangiers Freelander 1.8K
    Soaking bolts, especially exhaust manifold.
    Plugs out, electricals disconnected.
    Cam cover off - creamy over cylinder 4 !!
    Exhaust heat shield off and alternator dropped forward.
    Can't decide whether to change the timing belt, it was done pre my ownership about 8,000 miles ago.
    If I decide not to, is is o.k to reset the tensioner as per new setting and run from there? I notice the spring arm has moved from the 'new' position.
    Seems to be straight forward so far.
    Hopefully will be obvious from head gasket what has happened and hopefully no other components requiring replacement.
    Have a BW750 Elastomer head gasket kit with new bolts.
     
  2. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Change the belt. If you use it again, it will try to stretch for a second time, which normally results in belt failure. For the tiny cost of the belt, it's not worth risking another head repair. ;)
     
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  3. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, sort of came to same conclusion, bit more work, but as you say, better safe than sorry !! :)
    Any tips when I get the head off to check it out ??
     
  4. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    My FL2 timing belt has a 150k / 10 year change interval, but I replaced the belt when I replaced my head, at which point the new belt I'd fitted had done just 2300 miles, but for a £50 belt, it's just not worth the risk.
    You need to feel the witness marks left by the fire rings, so you can get an idea of the depth of the marks. If the marks can be felt with your finger nail, then the head needs re-facing to eliminate the recession.
     
  5. freelance

    freelance Well-Known Member

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    and think about a new water pump, it saves disturbing the timing belt again
     
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  6. Jayridium

    Jayridium Well-Known Member

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    Good luck Andy, just remember t start casting your eye over the engine bay WRT to how the MG6 turbo enigne nd the turbo plumbing is going to get routed WHEN you do the upgrade....
    ...Actually, could you ut the MG6 head on the K block and kill two jobs with one socket set?
     
  7. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    I could down the compression ratio and drop the turbo on this one.
    It has got as far as the project list after:
    Sell the wife's TD4.
    Finish the belt change on the V6.
    Complete the RHD conversion on the Cortina.
    Fit refurbished gearbox to Cortina.
    Sort TD4 vibration.
    Fit turbo to K 1.8 somehow.
    Have already analysed circuits comparing with Rover 1.8T. Almost identical except for the air con wiring. Want the turbo to respond to ems, not just a fixed boost.
     
  8. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    All going o.k.
    Head off, will post photos tonight, marginal evidence of a breach.

    Also, found some black rubber gasket material stuck in waterway next to cylinder 4 that could have been trapped in head gasket.
    Have a minimum of 0.5 thou of inch liner height. None are flush, cylinder 4 is the lowest. Multi layer gasket was previously fitted.
     
  9. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Think the cyl 3 and cyl 4 wall was breached.
    Some photos:
    DSC_0504.JPG
    Inside of cam cover, just caught it in time before a big mess appeared.
    DSC_0509.JPG Breach cyl 3 & 4. Also found some silicone rubber stuck in the small V next to cyl 4 and it may have been trapped in head gasket.
    DSC_0517.JPG
    DSC_0516.JPG Here it is !!!
    Measured liner height, No 4 was lowest at 0.5 thou in or 0.0127mm approx, so the Payen gasket should be o.k - previously a mulit-layer and with different liner heights this wouldn't have helped.
    Also, shock horror, there were washers under some of the head bolts ! Not near cylinder 4 but when measured they were noticeably longer than the new ones and so I guess the combination of silicone (dunno where it came from), washers under bolts, multi-layer on uneven liners all contributed to the failure.
    Head was hardly marked around the fire ring. Gentle nylon pot scourer made it shiny !
    Head back on and just making good previous bodges; heat shield broken, bolts missing from cam belt cover and belt rubbing.
    Also, putting new water pump, tensioner, belt and exhaust manifold (old one had a slight crack in a weld and showed up when it 'steamed up' !!)
    Should be done tomorrow.

    Incidentally, anyone know why the cam pulleys (when level and up the right way) have exhaust written on the inlet side and inlet written on the exhaust side - is it a ploy to confuse ???
     
  10. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've marked an area of the liner that looks suspicious to me.
    Screenshot_20220411-201851_Samsung Internet.jpg
    There shouldn't be any silicone in the engine, only anaerobic sealants should be used.
     
  11. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    I see what you mean, it is still proud though across that diagonal. Hopefully the payen gasket will work with the liners as they are. I can see why the multi-layer wouldn't hold though.
     
  12. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    That's correct. The MLS gasket needs 2-4 thou of liner protrusion, or it doesn't last.
    The BW750 is the best gasket to use.
     
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  13. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Completely agree. Used a BM750 on my FL1 and have just fitted one to a ZR105. On that engine, the liners were practically level with the block deck height.

    Unfortunately, the coolant system on this car is full of the dreaded cream cheese/ Mayo - I am wondering about running a few coolant flushes with plain water an a dishwasher tablet to clear the goo...

    ... and will need to replace at least two of the coolant hoses as the rubber has rotted :(
     
  14. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Presume that is from before you did the hg!?!

    Would be careful with dishwasher tablets. They are caustic and some of the aluminium might not like that. Something slightly more gentle I would suggest.
     
  15. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    I've always found normal washing up liquid works as an effective de-oiler. I used it in my TD4, after the oil cooler decided to pump oil into the cooling system.
    It took a few flushes to get it all out, but after than it stayed clean in the coolant reservoir.
     
  16. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Lol, yes!
    A90FC701-9584-4A17-9779-989EDA2FED4A.jpeg
    lovely, isn’t it?

    yes, dishwasher tablet is nasty and salty, but planning multiple fresh washer flushes afterwards.
    Washing up liquid a good alternative I think, thanks Nodge :)
     
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  17. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Finished off this job today. Checked timing several times, turned by hand and all good.
    Did several repairs whilst refitting up, heat shield brackets, missing bolts etc.
    Started up, ran like a pig!!

    Fortunately a quick check of the connectors revealed the coil pack for cyl 1 & 4 hadn't locked on and had pushed itself half off! Phew.
    All good, gentle test drive checking for leaks etc.

    All seems fine, the top hose goes quite hard, thought this was due to crank pressure but it still does it, no blow on the cap though.
    Can someone please tell me this is OK!?!?
    Will use gently, do an oil change now that it is warmed up and see how it goes.
    Set coolant level to exactly max to observe.
    Thanks for all the help, hope it stays good!!
     
  18. rob_bell

    rob_bell Well-Known Member

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    Bet that I’ll running scared you half to death! It would me! Lol

    not sure how to interpret that hose feeling? Might dependent on how much air or coolant is in it and whether the hose is in decent condition.
     
  19. andyfreelandy

    andyfreelandy Well-Known Member

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    Made for a wtf moment I can say!!
    Hose is being pressurised, but then it would be as the water heats up. Just haven't had a hose feel that solid before and I put it down to hg problems.

    Will monitor, but next time you run up the 1.8 have a squeeze when it gets hot please!!
    Maybe a lazy thermostat, it has the modified front stat.
     
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2022
  20. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It's normal for hoses to go hard when hot.
    My V6 hoses would actually swell when hot and visually shrink if the pressure cap was released.
     
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