L322 0x---- Trouble codes

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S

S50OOL

Member
Posts
35
Location
Aberdeenshire
Range Rover L322 TD6 2003 113,000 miles
So I have bought the above vehicle as a project to keep me on my toes and out of mischief through some health issues at present, it's main problem is no drive through the auto transmission and yes I know I am more than likely putting a gearbox and torque converter in her. I bought it in full awareness of that outcome but she also has various intermittent CAN issues and general clean up after neglect by last owner. I have always gone down the line of diagnosis before throwing money at parts so I have used google, bing and the search function on here to try to find a list of what the dtc's in the form of 0x---- translate as, for example I have 0x5220 coming up in the abs, air suspension and transfer box when they are scanned, I am using a Thinkdiag tool, the info related to it just states "sensor short circuit to ground". What fckin sensor though!!!! the only ones at first thought that could link all 3 are the abs sensors but no idea and await the obvious I have missed. Does anyone have a list of these codes or can direct me to anywhere for more information on them??? Got a few relating to the CAN intermittent not speaking to various places problem and to confuse further it throws in the odd conventional P---- type now and again which are nice and simple relating to a fooked battery now replaced with a new monster bosch. I am far more a reader than a poster on forums and this is my 1st "proper" post so if I have missed something or not explained properly I await the condemnation and wrath of my peers here :D:D:D:oops:
 
With the earlier l322, the diagnostics is limited with generic readers/programs if that's the case and a more dedicated diagnostic tool will be needed to get a more precise idea of where to start.
Most of the time it's a battery issue as you say that'll flag spurious faults. Missing coms also that come and go unless it's a permanent fault which could relate to bad earth's for ecus or fuses. The rear wings also contain a lot of ecus and important gizmos that get corrosion in them and flag a whole host of crap to boot.. :)
 
S50OOL said:
Range Rover L322 TD6 2003 113,000 miles
So I have bought the above vehicle as a project to keep me on my toes and out of mischief through some health issues at present, it's main problem is no drive through the auto transmission and yes I know I am more than likely putting a gearbox and torque converter in her. I bought it in full awareness of that outcome but she also has various intermittent CAN issues and general clean up after neglect by last owner. I have always gone down the line of diagnosis before throwing money at parts so I have used google, bing and the search function on here to try to find a list of what the dtc's in the form of 0x---- translate as, for example I have 0x5220 coming up in the abs, air suspension and transfer box when they are scanned, I am using a Thinkdiag tool, the info related to it just states "sensor short circuit to ground". What fckin sensor though!!!! the only ones at first thought that could link all 3 are the abs sensors but no idea and await the obvious I have missed. Does anyone have a list of these codes or can direct me to anywhere for more information on them??? Got a few relating to the CAN intermittent not speaking to various places problem and to confuse further it throws in the odd conventional P---- type now and again which are nice and simple relating to a fooked battery now replaced with a new monster bosch. I am far more a reader than a poster on forums and this is my 1st "proper" post so if I have missed something or not explained properly I await the condemnation and wrath of my peers here :D:D:D:oops:
Click to expand...
Is the transfer box in neutral by any chance?
 
Mark Piercy said:
With the earlier l322, the diagnostics is limited with generic readers/programs if that's the case and a more dedicated diagnostic tool will be needed to get a more precise idea of where to start.
Most of the time it's a battery issue as you say that'll flag spurious faults. Missing coms also that come and go unless it's a permanent fault which could relate to bad earth's for ecus or fuses. The rear wings also contain a lot of ecus and important gizmos that get corrosion in them and flag a whole host of crap to boot.. :)
Click to expand...
Hi and many thanks for your reply. I have been investigating the dedicated scanner options and it seems the gap iid is the one to have, the price is just something I need to save for as have 3 mercs, an XJS mid resto, a p38 and this to play with in total so funds get spread across them all lol. This is my first L322 had numerous P38's but clearly these are a far different diagnostic animal, I am learning from ground zero with this so been spending time going through Rave and all the old posts I can find. As I said prefer to diagnose properly than just throw bits and money down never ending trails. I will clear the rear and inspect all I can see for water intrusion and check all the connectors and earths, It has most definitely earth and corrroded connection problems as I get can faults on the dash then they disappear and everything works then suddenly off again. Just trying to work out these bloody fault codes and what they actually reference is a nightmare. Live in sunny Aberdeenshire and been in the -9 region so been just a bit chilly even for a nutter like me out there hahaha. i am one of those weirdo's that like the challenge of electrical shenanigans so don't mind the chase just helps if I could see a little of what I'm chasing at times.
 
Datatek said:
Is the transfer box in neutral by any chance?
Click to expand...
Hi Datatek, interesting you should say that !!!! according to live data on the gearbox and transfer box it is a little confusing, also faultcodes for the autobox completely none existant and it is showing as "normal" operation and moves through all gears in live data except when I get to 4 and 5, using the manual change it supposedly selects reverse, 1, 2, and 3 and shows the solenoids operating as it states in Rave but will not change to 4 and 5 in the same way or the 4,5 solenoid does not seem to be operating. I am not sure if that is normal or indicating a faulty solenoid not got that far in testing yet. On the transfer box the only permanent code I get is 0x5220 which is this "sensor short circuit to ground", no idea what sensor at present though, if I disconnect the multi-plug from the transfer box it still will not delete, I get various CAN related codes as and when it decides to have its wobbly, mainly showing via the dash binnacle hence my first step to cure the CAN side before just throwing in a gearbox etc. The other thing I notice is in livedata the transfer box shows the abs sensors are static at 0mph but in the ABS ecu it shows them at 0.8mph and that is all 4 with no variation between them plus no fault code showing apart from this 0x5220 that appears in the ABS, Transfer box and Air suspension diags. I cannot find any info on that code to say exactly what sensor it refers to in any search I have done and I have done a lot. The other thing in the transfer box live data it says it is between low and neutral yet if I remove the motor and do a full reset as per the info in the youtube video by powerfull uk nothing changes it just says implausable between low and neutral. I fully accept I will more than likely put a gearbox in this but want to get rid of the electrical abnormalities so when I do replace the box I know then it is ready to go so to speak and not then starting again chasing faults through canbus and other oddities especially as the codes I get are in other systems and not the autobox but yes I know that means nothing. I also realise not having a fully dedicated diag tool is not my best starting point and hopefully be in a position to remedy that in the new year but I have what I have now and plenty of time and a never say die attitude when in reality most people say scrap it hahahaha. I am thinking my next step to rule them out is to remove the wheels and resistance check the abs sensors and check all multi-plugs etc, I also have read these that early L322's can suffer with water intrusion to the nsf footwells and damage to the electrics hidden there so after the full check at rear will have a delve in there, I am also working my way through all the earth points I have found listed in Rave. Like I say plenty of time and it keeps me occupied and enjoying life rather than dwelling on health so even if everyone says its a lost cause its not to me and I am fast learning the L322 td6. Sorry for the long replies I try to supply the info I think relevant if its too much tell me to shut the fcuk up I understand that sort of input
 
S50OOL said:
Hi Datatek, interesting you should say that !!!! according to live data on the gearbox and transfer box it is a little confusing, also faultcodes for the autobox completely none existant and it is showing as "normal" operation and moves through all gears in live data except when I get to 4 and 5, using the manual change it supposedly selects reverse, 1, 2, and 3 and shows the solenoids operating as it states in Rave but will not change to 4 and 5 in the same way or the 4,5 solenoid does not seem to be operating. I am not sure if that is normal or indicating a faulty solenoid not got that far in testing yet. On the transfer box the only permanent code I get is 0x5220 which is this "sensor short circuit to ground", no idea what sensor at present though, if I disconnect the multi-plug from the transfer box it still will not delete, I get various CAN related codes as and when it decides to have its wobbly, mainly showing via the dash binnacle hence my first step to cure the CAN side before just throwing in a gearbox etc. The other thing I notice is in livedata the transfer box shows the abs sensors are static at 0mph but in the ABS ecu it shows them at 0.8mph and that is all 4 with no variation between them plus no fault code showing apart from this 0x5220 that appears in the ABS, Transfer box and Air suspension diags. I cannot find any info on that code to say exactly what sensor it refers to in any search I have done and I have done a lot. The other thing in the transfer box live data it says it is between low and neutral yet if I remove the motor and do a full reset as per the info in the youtube video by powerfull uk nothing changes it just says implausable between low and neutral. I fully accept I will more than likely put a gearbox in this but want to get rid of the electrical abnormalities so when I do replace the box I know then it is ready to go so to speak and not then starting again chasing faults through canbus and other oddities especially as the codes I get are in other systems and not the autobox but yes I know that means nothing. I also realise not having a fully dedicated diag tool is not my best starting point and hopefully be in a position to remedy that in the new year but I have what I have now and plenty of time and a never say die attitude when in reality most people say scrap it hahahaha. I am thinking my next step to rule them out is to remove the wheels and resistance check the abs sensors and check all multi-plugs etc, I also have read these that early L322's can suffer with water intrusion to the nsf footwells and damage to the electrics hidden there so after the full check at rear will have a delve in there, I am also working my way through all the earth points I have found listed in Rave. Like I say plenty of time and it keeps me occupied and enjoying life rather than dwelling on health so even if everyone says its a lost cause its not to me and I am fast learning the L322 td6. Sorry for the long replies I try to supply the info I think relevant if its too much tell me to shut the fcuk up I understand that sort of input
Click to expand...
The electronics in the nearside rear quarter is the most common place for water ingress. As long as you view the car as a hobby not a means of transport, I don't see a problem.
 
Datatek said:
The electronics in the nearside rear quarter is the most common place for water ingress. As long as you view the car as a hobby not a means of transport, I don't see a problem.
Click to expand...
PMSL all my cars are viewed as hobbies, I am lucky in the fact that there is always one in full working condition, most of the time 3, would be more but the government loves their pound of flesh from us so rotate whats taxed and fully available, I am not going to complain about fuel costs as until this L322 the smallest is a V6 3.2 ranging to V12 5.3. Never been one for sensible car choices for frugality or reliability lol but then again where is the fun in knowing every-time you go out you know exactly how it ends hahaha. I am what gives the electric car protagonists and global warming sect nightmares, too old to change and no intention to give up my obsessions with sub 20mpg monsters, well not until they can catch me to fit the straight jacket and lock me in the rubber room
 
Didn't someone get BMW INPA working on an L322 ? Software is freely downloadable, and the cables are not that expensive. I believe about £30 but you need the version with the mode switch.
 
S50OOL said:
Hi and many thanks for your reply. I have been investigating the dedicated scanner options and it seems the gap iid is the one to have, the price is just something I need to save for as have 3 mercs, an XJS mid resto, a p38 and this to play with in total so funds get spread across them all lol. This is my first L322 had numerous P38's but clearly these are a far different diagnostic animal, I am learning from ground zero with this so been spending time going through Rave and all the old posts I can find. As I said prefer to diagnose properly than just throw bits and money down never ending trails. I will clear the rear and inspect all I can see for water intrusion and check all the connectors and earths, It has most definitely earth and corrroded connection problems as I get can faults on the dash then they disappear and everything works then suddenly off again. Just trying to work out these bloody fault codes and what they actually reference is a nightmare. Live in sunny Aberdeenshire and been in the -9 region so been just a bit chilly even for a nutter like me out there hahaha. i am one of those weirdo's that like the challenge of electrical shenanigans so don't mind the chase just helps if I could see a little of what I'm chasing at times.
Click to expand...
Try working in the dark...it'll be easier to spot arcing electrickery :cool:
 
pwood999 said:
Didn't someone get BMW INPA working on an L322 ? Software is freely downloadable, and the cables are not that expensive. I believe about £30 but you need the version with the mode switch.
Click to expand...
For that year l322 then yes BMW INPA and lead just need a laptop ( free download from "mikes easy obd tools " (( I think )) will get you must of codes you need ) worked on my 04 year fine even calibrated suspension with it. Chap I know has the gap and its a bit flakey on his 04 l322 emailed GAP about it and reply was it can be hit or miss around that year.
 
kds said:
For that year l322 then yes BMW INPA and lead just need a laptop ( free download from "mikes easy obd tools " (( I think )) will get you must of codes you need ) worked on my 04 year fine even calibrated suspension with it. Chap I know has the gap and its a bit flakey on his 04 l322 emailed GAP about it and reply was it can be hit or miss around that year.
Click to expand...
I had seen a few on saying this regarding the GAP on pre 2005 vehicles, it seems most tools struggle with the early cars but I will try the BMW INPA for the cost it seems daft not too, one of my other "interests" is playing about with the older laptops and have lots of them so no problem with that side of it, nothing ventured and all that, plus got lots of manufacturer systems already merc star, audi ODIS the subaru kit plus others so another at the costs involved with INPA is no worries. thank you for the information confirming this works.
 
backinblack said:
Have you read this thread https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-in-neutral.291568/
may or may not be the same issue but I guess it's worth a try.
Click to expand...

Hi, yes I have seen this, it came up in one of my early search's, I attempted this reset but I heard the motor run but still in live data it shows it in this same implausible position and no drive, as it was not the nicest of weather ie heavy snowfall at the time I stopped at that point, been chasing this issue trying to discover this sensor short to earth code since as going under her in 2 feet of snow wasn't happening hahaha. Now its clearing up here it sounds like a further investigation for Christmas Day to avoid the ****e tv and boredom. The front prop has not had the modified update which suprised me as until this last owner she was very well cared for and serviced on the button, even the transmission serviced at 60k according to info I have with her, will be taking front and rear props off for thorough inspection but just been chasing the canbus faults as they are much easier in poor weather than anything else. Thank you for this though. Also I have had the motor off and fully cleaned and bench tested it and it seems to operate perfectly but I realise this can be a red herring as it is not under any loading. The only thing I haven't fully checked is the potentiometer by cutting it open but it does give the apropriate readings relating to one of Bemble's posts.
 
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