06 Range Rover sport climate panel issue

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Steve J 1988

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Hi everyone,

I’m new to the forum, just wondered if someone could give us some advice

I’ve had a Range Rover sport but have to ditch it due to the ULEZ, so I bought an 06 RRS a few days ago.

I have a slight issue with the heater panel. When I switch the blower from the screen to the feet, it switches with no issues. However when I try to use the heater for face level, it lights up but it’s not switching and nothings coming out.

Has anyone experienced this?
I’m guessing it’s the motor for the heater box flaps which is potentially a dash out job

I got asked to post this on here as the Disco 3 and L320 are pretty much the same


Regards

Steve
 
Steve J 1988 said:
Hi everyone,

I’m new to the forum, just wondered if someone could give us some advice

I’ve had a Range Rover sport but have to ditch it due to the ULEZ, so I bought an 06 RRS a few days ago.

I have a slight issue with the heater panel. When I switch the blower from the screen to the feet, it switches with no issues. However when I try to use the heater for face level, it lights up but it’s not switching and nothings coming out.

Has anyone experienced this?
I’m guessing it’s the motor for the heater box flaps which is potentially a dash out job

I got asked to post this on here as the Disco 3 and L320 are pretty much the same


Regards

Steve
Click to expand...

hi @Steve J 1988

see if a motor calibration works , plse Ensure ur battery is fully charged as if its low the system will start shutting things down to preserve power , with the engine off u should get 12.6 Vdc

akso do u have diagnostics plse, want one that can activate the motors along with showing any fault codes

hope the reset below helps and plse let us know how u get on

The motor and flap operation can be checked using the on-board distribution motor self-test function.

The self-test can be initiated by pressing and holding the ECON and RECIRC buttons while turning the ignition switch to the ON position.

The control module will then compare the current motor position with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED (light emitting diode).

If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.

To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position. Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.

If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
 
DanClarke said:
Hi and welcome to LZ.
You want @gstuart on this one if it's D3 type help.
Click to expand...

many thks and indeed are very similar , as a side note have actually seen someone fit a RRS dashboard into a D3

hopefully it’s not some of the rear motors as it’s a dashboard out job
 
gstuart said:
hi @Steve J 1988

see if a motor calibration works , plse Ensure ur battery is fully charged as if its low the system will start shutting things down to preserve power , with the engine off u should get 12.6 Vdc

akso do u have diagnostics plse, want one that can activate the motors along with showing any fault codes

hope the reset below helps and plse let us know how u get on

The motor and flap operation can be checked using the on-board distribution motor self-test function.

The self-test can be initiated by pressing and holding the ECON and RECIRC buttons while turning the ignition switch to the ON position.

The control module will then compare the current motor position with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED (light emitting diode).

If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.

To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position. Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.

If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I don’t have diagnostic equipment, my friend has a Snap on triton, would that suffice.
I’ve tried the self test. The ECON and RECIRC button, the ECON flashes. I tried the next step and the defrost button was flashing. I will try it again tomorrow and throw a jump pack on it just in case.

Failing that I’m guessing it’s a lower dash and centre console out
 
Steve J 1988 said:
Unfortunately I don’t have diagnostic equipment, my friend has a Snap on triton, would that suffice.
I’ve tried the self test. The ECON and RECIRC button, the ECON flashes. I tried the next step and the defrost button was flashing. I will try it again tomorrow and throw a jump pack on it just in case.

Failing that I’m guessing it’s a lower dash and centre console out
Click to expand...

hi

glad the above notes were helpful to u , there are some work arounds on various motors in not having to remove the dashboard

alas depends what the code reader can do and If it can activate the motors one by one

indeed would be best to get the code reader plugged in to see what DTC codes come back otherwise it’s just a guessing game

personally with these motors being very electrical heavy having ur own code reader and multimeter is really a must otherwise it can turn out extremely expensive

hope that helps

ps, may I plse ask , assume ur current RRS is petrol for it to be ULEZ compliant , is it the 4.4 jag engine in it
many thks
 
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