I would just like to say

[kevstar]

You'd have to do a google pic search to see if any of the tiles are worth much, some, like the ones in old hallstands and fire surrounds can be worth stupid money.
Some people buy the old hallstands just for them. We were very lucky to get one with all the tiles intact and then to be able to transport it over here without damage. They are brown and white and the pattern is a central circle with flowers in it like you were looking down on the bowl, set inside a square on top of another square, set at 45 degrees to it. Then what looks like mosaic around it. If anyone is bovvad I'll take a pic.

Looking more closely at them, they may be worth a bit, the whole ones that is!! Looking at the backs of them you may be able to identify them more closely. via marks.

I'll remove the wood they are stuck onto & take them home then have a go at removing them.

 

[DanClarke]

Any idea how to test one? I can do continuity with a meter, but as for clicking it over.....

Connect it to a car battery twice? 12 + 12 = 24.

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Oh for Maplins still being around. Are RS still trading?

The relay will likely either have the operating coil or the contacts rated at 24VDC and 250VAC respectively or vice versa. I would guess that with 16A being mentioned that will be the current carrying capacity of the contacts so 250v for those, 24v for the coil.

In France it seems to be Conrad if you can understand them or ManoMano, through whom I think I'll be getting stuff.
I did find a direct link to the relays with another supplier that actually worked from a post donks ago on the forum I mentioned, so if I find I need them it may not be too difficult.
The caps are Konek and Jamicon. Konek seem to be still around....

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Mornin'

How are we all?

OK ta, and yourself??

 

[kevstar]

Waverley booze cruise last night was superb, live music everyone up dancing & singing.
Cracking night.

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Connect it to car battery twice? 12 + 12 = 24.

I did bizarrely think of doing just that, in series obvs. But I don't fancy disabling both our cars here at the same time.
In the UK I have a load of old batts kicking around that I could use. I could do with an old transformer of some kind. And it would have to be rectified. An old batt charger of some sort maybe? I'll have to see what I've got, I don't think any of mine are 24 volt.
You see, you are helping! Ta!

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Morning All.
Slept OK, back is niggling all the time though. Grateful for small mercies.
Shopping day, and I need to get a patio gas refill (that'll help the back no end, won't it?
Have a great day.

Best of luck mate, it is almost tempting to take a sack truck with you when you go to buy gas!!
I have developed a bit of a technique for picking them up as we need two at all times, gas hob indoors, gas BBQ out.
But you need to be in working togs at involves using a knee!

 

[kevstar]

Having a coffee atm ive got the mini on axle stands to repair the exhaust flexi its off but the centre flange is missing
so im just going to weld it back on for now as the new flexi comes with the centre section now. I can get a repair section
but I need to wait on it & it needs to be on the road today so buzz buzz then.

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Mornin
Cool an dull, no rain yet
Reflectors arrived from Temu, 60p each and excellent quality
Had an idea for the clock, cheap coasters, not sure though
stay busy all

Well reflectors are an idea. One colour for 12, 3, 6, 9 and another or others for the rest of the numbers!!!

 

[Stanleysteamer]

..shopping done, gas was got.
Petrol was £1.34/L at the supermarket
That's more expensive than elsewhere, they use the petrol pricing to subsidise the food price-cuts I reckon.

You are complaining about that price????
You should see what we have to pay now in Frogland. E10 €1.629
Long gone are the days of cheaper fuel.

 

[Stanleysteamer]

I'll remove the wood they are stuck onto & take them home then have a go at removing them.

Do hope they have a backing piece to keep them all in place. Sounds like it does.
In the past, when removing and moving things around in a kitchen I have had to "save" tiles for reuse elsewhere. It is a flipping nightmare as you prolly know. and getting the adhesive off the back is a bore.
Things we do, eh?

 

[landowner]

Well reflectors are an idea. One colour for 12, 3, 6, 9 and another or others for the rest of the numbers!!!

Now that's a good idea, I have 8 spare ones so could do the main 4 positions , the reflectors are stick on ones

 

[Wimblowdriver]

Today I am mostly yucking bind weed out of the grass. It is taking over the bare patches where I de-mossed earlier this year. Lots of bare patches where grass has scorched during the heat waves.

 

[Stanleysteamer]

I have to say I had read that the scheme might be being cancelled but by the time that happens it will be too late for our journey and its so cheap and easy to get that it was a no brainer. It is not possible to get through Rouen without a sticker and the detour to avoid it is complicated and tedious.

Incidentally it seems much more lenient than the Spanish scheme, which also does not allow issuing a rating to foreign registered cars. The Spanish scheme is not entirely logical, suffering from some of the vagarities of Spanish bureaucracy - a 'B' is worse than a 'C', there is no 'A' and '0' is for zero emission cars yet includes certain hybrids, which are normally category 'ECO'. On the plus side it is free and if you've got a sticker from certain other EU countries such as France, it is recognised, so via that method you can drive a non-Spanish registered car in a Spanish LEZ!

Re. the crossing, we're usually coming from the London area so Dover suits. Forgot to mention we did the whole journey by train once, which would be different now that the overnight hotel train has been replaced by TGVs and AVEs.

Others have mentioned Rouen as being a total PITA from this point of view. As we never go near there we do not have an alternative. I can see from the map that when we were forced to use Dieppe a couple of times we managed to get around it and stay on autoroutes, I LOVE the way you have got your crit'air sticker for Spain! Well done.

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Now that's a good idea, I have 8 spare ones so could do the main 4 positions , the reflectors are stick on ones

 

[marjon]

I did bizarrely think of doing just that, in series obvs. But I don't fancy disabling both our cars here at the same time.
In the UK I have a load of old batts kicking around that I could use. I could do with an old transformer of some kind. And it would have to be rectified. An old batt charger of some sort maybe? I'll have to see what I've got, I don't think any of mine are 24 volt.
You see, you are helping! Ta!

Its worth just trying 12v in may click it enough to get continuity reading on the other side.

J

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Its worth just trying 12v in may click it enough to get continuity reading on the other side.

J

Thanks mate! I'll give it a go if it seems necessary. As it is I'll be desoldering them last as they are a bit awkward to get at and not as easy to get off as the caps. TBH if the caps don't fix it, then it looks like it must be it.

The whole thing is a bit barmy as they are built to take whacking great power as you can run a whole room's underfloor heating pad/coil (whatever) through one yet ours act purely as a sort of sensor to turn the big relay at the mother board on or off. I wonder if that might not be part of the problem.

Could you advise re soldering irons, please? I don't want to spend a fortune on one, I already have a cheapo one which seems to work although it takes ages to heat up. So any specs you or someone could give me would be a big help, as well as tip size. I have heard that you need a 1mm tip but that a bigger one is better for desoldering. Ditto I know I need flux cored solder but any idea of the thickness please?
Again, I am a hignoramus when it comes to the specifics and precision of all this.

TIA!

 

[marjon]

Thanks mate! I'll give it a go if it seems necessary. As it is I'll be desoldering them last as they are a bit awkward to get at and not as easy to get off as the caps. TBH if the caps don't fix it, then it looks like it must be it.

The whole thing is a bit barmy as they are built to take whacking great power as you can run a whole room's underfloor heating pad/coil (whatever) through one yet ours act purely as a sort of sensor to turn the big relay at the mother board on or off. I wonder if that might not be part of the problem.

Could you advise re soldering irons, please? I don't want to spend a fortune on one, I already have a cheapo one which seems to work although it takes ages to heat up. So any specs you or someone could give me would be a big help, as well as tip size. I have heard that you need a 1mm tip but that a bigger one is better for desoldering. Ditto I know I need flux cored solder but any idea of the thickness please?
Again, I am a hignoramus when it comes to the specifics and precision of all this.

TIA!

Its ages since I had to get my soldering iron out. I have also used a "solder sucker" for desoldering. Size of tips I think depends on how much space you have. But I think a big tip with plenty of heat will melt the solder quicker so may be favourable to desolder.
I dont use it enough to have any real knowledge good or bad, just enough to get by when needed.

You could always power up the board with 240v and then probe with the meter to find the 24v side, or blow it right up of course

The load capcity of the relay on the motherboard probably alot higher to take the 3-4kw or whatever your mats take. But surely they can be easily tested just by appling 240v down the output from the thermostat that switches them?

Good luck its a little project to keep you busy.

J

 

[Stanleysteamer]

Its ages since I had to get my soldering iron out. I have also used a "solder sucker" for desoldering. Size of tips I think depends on how much space you have. But I think a big tip with plenty of heat will melt the solder quicker so may be favourable to desolder.
I dont use it enough to have any real knowledge good or bad, just enough to get by when needed.

You could always power up the board with 240v and then probe with the meter to find the 24v side, or blow it right up of course

The load capcity of the relay on the motherboard probably alot higher to take the 3-4kw or whatever your mats take. But surely they can be easily tested just by appling 240v down the output from the thermostat that switches them?

Good luck its a little project to keep you busy.

J

Oh everything from the stat onwards works fine, this is how we have been surviving until now, I shift the working stats around to get heat where we need it. I even have a really simple stat a typical bimetallic thing, that works across just the two wires, positive in and "load" out. But I don't want to have to buy 8 of them as that would cost at least £200, when I can get the parts and tools for far less. Plus the originals fit properly into the universal yellow cylindrical fittings in the wall. Our house came with these almost everywhere, including ceiling light fittings.

I can safely power up all the stats, and then test for output, that is where I started, but all it does is tell me that when turned to "on" no power is going back to the motherboard to click the big relay there to "on". The stat just clicks on-off-on-off, over and over again.

But thanks for your advice.

 

[marjon]

Oh everything from the stat onwards works fine, this is how we have been surviving until now, I shift the working stats around to get heat where we need it. I even have a really simple stat a typical bimetallic thing, that works across just the two wires, positive in and "load" out. But I don't want to have to buy 8 of them as that would cost at least £200, when I can get the parts and tools for far less. Plus the originals fit properly into the universal yellow cylindrical fittings in the wall. Our house came with these almost everywhere, including ceiling light fittings.

I can safely power up all the stats, and then test for output, that is where I started, but all it does is tell me that when turned to "on" no power is going back to the motherboard to click the big relay there to "on". The stat just clicks on-off-on-off, over and over again.

But thanks for your advice.

Sorry I must have misunderstood when you question the motherboard relays as a possible issue.

So if you powered it up and it clicks on/off, is it the relay that clicks ? if so then the relay works??? but something is not holding it in.

I have basic electronics knowledge. Usually learn by blowing fings up .

J