P38 front hub/ bearing removal link .

[Mcgill84]

Hi , I've searched and searched and keep coming up with a link that takes me nowhere...
I'm changing ,or attempting to remove bearing from hub ....anyone got a working link on how to remove bearing ?.. many thanks ....
By the way , the ring on left ,is that around edge of bearing ?

 

[DanClarke]

Does this help at all?

 

[Mcgill84]

Thanks Dan ,I'm actually trying to split bearing from hub , so I end up with this

 

[pwood999]

aah you want a pixelated hub !!

 

[Mcgill84]

aah you want a pixelated hub !!

" That's funny "

 

[pwood999]

It really needs a decent hydraulic press & proper size mandrels. There's a snap-ring in there to hold the bearing in place, which is usually covered in crud & hard to spot !!

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/front-wheel-bearing-p38-replacement.55596/

 

[Grrrrrr]

Hi , I've searched and searched and keep coming up with a link that takes me nowhere...
I'm changing ,or attempting to remove bearing from hub ....anyone got a working link on how to remove bearing ?.. many thanks ....
By the way , the ring on left ,is that around edge of bearing ?

You need a BIG press for that. Seem to recall Wammers saying it can take a 100 ton press to get the buggers out. You have to keep it absolutely straight too. Given a Timken bearing was £70 last time I looked that means 2 attempts and you're almost at the cost of a whole hub from that place in Birmingham.

I realise this isn't exactly an answer to your question but if it were me I'd just replace the whole hub.

 

[myfirstl322]

I've never done it but you can weld a bead onto the races which shrink a little once cooled down, then easier to tap out.

New races into the freezer for an hour or two also aids fitment of new.

 

[Datatek]

I've never done it but you can weld a bead onto the races which shrink a little once cooled down, then easier to tap out.

New races into the freezer for an hour or two also aids fitment of new.

I have not done the bearings on the P38, but on my Transit I cut the bearings out. New bearings in the freezer over night and the hub well warmed with a heat gun and the new bearings pressed in easily.

 

[Mark Piercy]

You need a BIG press for that. Seem to recall Wammers saying it can take a 100 ton press to get the buggers out. You have to keep it absolutely straight too. Given a Timken bearing was £70 last time I looked that means 2 attempts and you're almost at the cost of a whole hub from that place in Birmingham.

I realise this isn't exactly an answer to your question but if it were me I'd just replace the whole hub.

I split one with a 20t press but not one of those presses with a jack in it

 

[myfirstl322]

I have not done the bearings on the P38, but on my Transit I cut the bearings out. New bearings in the freezer over night and the hub well warmed with a heat gun and the new bearings pressed in easily.

Rears obvs, presuming Mk 6/7.

 

[Mark Piercy]

Rears obvs, presuming Mk 6/7.

The mk6/7 transit front bearings are a poor design... Bolted together with torx bolts through the disk and mixed with rust and long standing are a recipe for disaster... I did what started as one bearing for a client on the front of his camper.... Pfff the hub bolts were ruined with corrosion, two new hubs, bearings, carriers and disk with pads later.....

 

[myfirstl322]

The mk6/7 transit front bearings are a poor design... Bolted together with torx bolts through the disk and mixed with rust and long standing are a recipe for disaster... I did what started as one bearing for a client on the front of his camper.... Pfff the hub bolts were ruined with corrosion, two new hubs, bearings, carriers and disk with pads later.....

I have a Mk6 rwd and I've replaced one front bearing,
one of the four bolts was missing completely !

 

[Datatek]

Rears obvs, presuming Mk 6/7.

Fronts actually, Mk6 RWD

 

[myfirstl322]

Fronts actually, Mk6 RWD

I thought they were only available as a complete hub... maybe I dismissed doing just the bearing because of the poor state of the remaining 3 bolts and went for the new hub/bearing combo option, it was 3 years ago.

 

[Mark Piercy]

I thought they were only available as a complete hub... maybe I dismissed doing just the bearing because of the poor state of the remaining 3 bolts and went for the new hub/bearing combo option, it was 3 years ago.

I'd go for the complete assembly every time, especially for a client.

 

[Datatek]

I thought they were only available as a complete hub... maybe I dismissed doing just the bearing because of the poor state of the remaining 3 bolts and went for the new hub/bearing combo option, it was 3 years ago.

I have replaced both front hub bearings n my Transit, a heck of a lot cheaper than a new hub. SKF bearings and they have been in there for about 10 years now.