What did you do with your Range Rover today

[RangeRoller dt]

MrGorsky reckons they were only a year old, although it has been sat here a year by now. So cats are maybe 2 years old, max.

Could the matrix on the grass be what’s left of the original cats making their way out?

 

[kermit_rr]

Fixed my lpg reducer! Now it's running too lean because it used to be running on 2, now only one. Need to open it up to provide more gas

Assume i just need to increase the pressure output of the reducer, anyone know if i simply turn the screw until the fuel trims return to normal?

 

[gold rover]

Right just plugged Icarsoft into my diesel P38 a 2000year one. It reads engine SRS and ABS so should imagine it will work on yours . It reads all sorts on my mates RR Sport. He believes theres a video on you tube showing what it does on the L322. Plus it comes with its own cable

The L322 and the P38 are not the same. The RRS is a Discovery, neither are an L322. Icarsoft from their own site state , "Works on most of 2004 and later OBDII compliant DIESEL European vehicles" and "Works on most of 2001 and later OBDII compliant PETROL European vehicles". Mine is neither of these.
Thanks, the help is appreciated, but trust me I have read, read and read again , before stopping the tail chasing and asking.

 

[RangeRoller dt]

anyone know if i simply turn the screw until the fuel trims return to normal?

Running this long as it is would the trims not be incorrect without a reset/run in?

 

[kermit_rr]

Running this long as it is would the trims not be incorrect without a reset/run in?

Running on petrol, they float either side of 0, ±3, when i switch to lpg they go +25 very quickly. Switching back to petrol and they return to normal in seconds.
That said i can do a reset in nanocom if needed

 

[gold rover]

Running on petrol, they float either side of 0, ±3, when i switch to lpg they go +25 very quickly. Switching back to petrol and they return to normal in seconds.
That said i can do a reset in nanocom if needed

Show off

 

[Rubberknees]

hi

hope u don’t mind me asking but does it also do the EAS and tight tolerance plse

know it’s always a nightmare pre OBD2, think they changed for the diesels after 2004 and petrols jan 2001

Indeed, RRS will be OBD2 complaint , same with my D3 , however have found some of the generic code reader throw out some weird codes

would be nice if there was a simple list of what will and won’t work on Land Rover models , maybe we should compile one between all of us all for future reference

Doesn't do EAS on P38 you need RSW's free software and @datatec's cable. On RR's after 2001 and other LR's it does quite a lot

 

[gstuart]

Doesn't do EAS on P38 you need RSW's free software and @datatec's cable. On RR's after 2001 and other LR's it does quite a lot

thks, indeed ref the RSW , that’s what I think @gold rover will be going with because of the pre and post OBD2 issues

must admit looked into all the readers when I bought my D3 , being virtually the same as a RRS , so in the end went with the gap iid

always a head ache in narrowing it down what readers can and can’t do, plus having them bi directional as well so can activate sensors etc around the vehicle

found that a godsend to have , later on due to the complexity of the D3 will also an oscilloscope , quite like the Hantek

finally think having a decent multimeter and test light is also very beneficial

 

[Rubberknees]

thks, indeed ref the RSW , that’s what I think @gold rover will be going with because of the pre and post OBD2 issues

must admit looked into all the readers when I bought my D3 , being virtually the same as a RRS , so in the end went with the gap iid

always a head ache in narrowing it down what readers can and can’t do, plus having them bi directional as well so can activate sensors etc around the vehicle

found that a godsend to have , later on due to the complexity of the D3 will also an oscilloscope , quite like the Hantek

finally think having a decent multimeter and test light is also very beneficial

Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed

 

[gstuart]

Few extra bits I got to help diagnose different systems , well can never have too many tools,

even more so when trying to find battery drain as can’t pull the fuses out due to the ecu design , then modifying a loom for heated windscreen washer jets

saddest part about it all is really enjoy working things out like this, yeh i know I need help, lol

remember when all u needed was a basic kit for the older motors , alas nothing like that now

 

[gstuart]

Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed

ur so right and funny enough just posted a thread of all the bits I’ve got when diagnosing the newer landies

know some of it is overkill but certainly made life a lot easier that’s for sure

Useto really enjoy working on my old vitesse or series landies

 

[Scotiawhiskers]

Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed

Lass I knew with a Mk1 Escort years ago didn't even need a key. She kept one thumbnail a bit longer and used it for the door and the ignition, plus invested in a good Krooklock!

 

[Scotiawhiskers]

Got an afternoon tea in a box from a local garden centre cafe, took it to New Brighton for a midnight snack.
Otto was smooth and quiet cruising down there at 70 on the cruise control, no hunting, much quieter and better riding on the new tyres.
Bumped the suspension up to extended so were sitting in comfort with sandwiches and cakes, watching all the dock cranes buzzing about and using the ship tracker on the phone to see what the stuff going in / out at the top of the tide was.
Cruised back at 60 with the cruise on, just as nice but hunted a little on the speed setting and kept switching the overdrive lock in and out for the hills which he didn't at 70. Diverted of the motorway onto minor roads for the last 15 miles because of roadworks.

Discovered a few new things to look at though.
Bit wandery at speed, not as solid on line as I expected, so will get the garage to do the suspension bushes they advised about this time for the MOT. From the threads on here, and going for comfort that will be a set of standard ones not polybush.
Loved the variable brightness dashboard lighting.
Heater very hit and miss, expected with the aircon not working but still more vague than I would expect - all or nothing and a bit wilful on the fan speed. Think we have some slightly sticky / worn blend motors not helping as it is a bit slow to swap screen to face to others when you press a button in manual mode. Had two huge blasts of heat though, both while going round left hand bends - one a fast tight sweeper on the motorway, a bit brisker than was comfortable, the other on a tight slow right hander.
Checking him over and doing some measuring this morning with everything cold (need a jack with enough lift, make sure we get an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the solenoid block, etc) I noticed that the coolant header tank looked empty - same dirty plastic all the way from bottom to top. Bit concerned, opened the pressure cap to be fountained over by about half a litre of coolant. Concerned now that this might indicate a head gasket issue from what I have seen on here (GEMS 4.0 1996) although temp gauge is stable, comes up briskly, drops OK, no signs of coolant leaks. Now wondering if there is some sort of trapped airlock or debris blocking the heater matrix causing the odd effects and being shifted occasionally by the right turns. After the coolant had fountained out, level in the header tank was a bit low, just showing above the bottom hose connection so started and ran him, topping up as required. Took about the amount that had been lost to get to the level it had been last time I checked. Top hose gets hot once the gauge is about half way to normal, not hard, soft and when squeezed the header tank level gurgles and moves. Bypass hose from the top of the radiator flows through to the header tank almost immediately on start up, which I thought was odd - shouldn't it only do that when the thermostat opens and the top hose gets hot? Or does it pressurise the rad system via the bottom hose and flow the bypass anyway?
So - aircon to search through and see what and where the leak is, get it solid and working again.
Coolant - chase the airlock / gasket / blockage / whatever and get that sorted.
Heater - maybe have to delve into the blend motors and the like, in due course.

 

[kermit_rr]

Got an afternoon tea in a box from a local garden centre cafe, took it to New Brighton for a midnight snack.
Otto was smooth and quiet cruising down there at 70 on the cruise control, no hunting, much quieter and better riding on the new tyres.
Bumped the suspension up to extended so were sitting in comfort with sandwiches and cakes, watching all the dock cranes buzzing about and using the ship tracker on the phone to see what the stuff going in / out at the top of the tide was.
Cruised back at 60 with the cruise on, just as nice but hunted a little on the speed setting and kept switching the overdrive lock in and out for the hills which he didn't at 70. Diverted of the motorway onto minor roads for the last 15 miles because of roadworks.

Discovered a few new things to look at though.
Bit wandery at speed, not as solid on line as I expected, so will get the garage to do the suspension bushes they advised about this time for the MOT. From the threads on here, and going for comfort that will be a set of standard ones not polybush.
Loved the variable brightness dashboard lighting.
Heater very hit and miss, expected with the aircon not working but still more vague than I would expect - all or nothing and a bit wilful on the fan speed. Think we have some slightly sticky / worn blend motors not helping as it is a bit slow to swap screen to face to others when you press a button in manual mode. Had two huge blasts of heat though, both while going round left hand bends - one a fast tight sweeper on the motorway, a bit brisker than was comfortable, the other on a tight slow right hander.
Checking him over and doing some measuring this morning with everything cold (need a jack with enough lift, make sure we get an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the solenoid block, etc) I noticed that the coolant header tank looked empty - same dirty plastic all the way from bottom to top. Bit concerned, opened the pressure cap to be fountained over by about half a litre of coolant. Concerned now that this might indicate a head gasket issue from what I have seen on here (GEMS 4.0 1996) although temp gauge is stable, comes up briskly, drops OK, no signs of coolant leaks. Now wondering if there is some sort of trapped airlock or debris blocking the heater matrix causing the odd effects and being shifted occasionally by the right turns. After the coolant had fountained out, level in the header tank was a bit low, just showing above the bottom hose connection so started and ran him, topping up as required. Took about the amount that had been lost to get to the level it had been last time I checked. Top hose gets hot once the gauge is about half way to normal, not hard, soft and when squeezed the header tank level gurgles and moves. Bypass hose from the top of the radiator flows through to the header tank almost immediately on start up, which I thought was odd - shouldn't it only do that when the thermostat opens and the top hose gets hot? Or does it pressurise the rad system via the bottom hose and flow the bypass anyway?
So - aircon to search through and see what and where the leak is, get it solid and working again.
Coolant - chase the airlock / gasket / blockage / whatever and get that sorted.
Heater - maybe have to delve into the blend motors and the like, in due course.

I think your engine has the same 'heart' thermostat as mine (thor)? It has a bypass valve, which shuts as the main part opens, this allows full flow. Top hose gets hot before thermostat opens

 

[tomcat59alan]

Remember my first car , a mk1 escort all I needed was a bog standard tool kit. How the times have changed

Do you mean a bed spanner and a hammer to adjust it to size.

 

[stuu]

If you are going to go the lap top route then the bmw inpa is a free download and a cable about £30 and if Stustrong can confirm it will work on the Golden girl its a lot cheaper than RSW

Rsw iv not used it myself.

Everything i own and 85% of what i work on is bmw somehow so a cheep engine scanner. Bmw Inpa. Delphi and a snapon gets me by
Inpa works with everything to do with a td6 2003 vogue. Sometimes the abs module takes 2 or 8 attempts to get into or just randomly clears the fault.
It will fully function with 2002 to 2005 diesels including air suspension.
Yes its a bit on a budget for a laptop software yes its a pain having to translate from german at times.
But it will do everything needed for gold rover.

I will apologise for late replying. Trying to get customers cars done. The day job, and my skid car ready for weekend event and not sitting down much.

 

[kermit_rr]

Assume i just need to increase the pressure output of the reducer, anyone know if i simply turn the screw until the fuel trims return to normal?

From what i can find, seems like i just tweak until it works

 

[Gord Wedman]

thks, indeed ref the RSW , that’s what I think @gold rover will be going with because of the pre and post OBD2 issues. I must admit looked into all the readers when I bought my D3 , being virtually the same as a RRS , so in the end went with the gap iid

always a head ache in narrowing it down what readers can and can’t do, plus having them bi directional as well so can activate sensors etc around the vehicle

found that a godsend to have , later on due to the complexity of the D3 will also an oscilloscope , quite like the Hantek

finally think having a decent multimeter and test light is also very beneficial

Re: the Hantek scope

Kerry Wong has just done a review of the Hantek portable oscilloscope on YouTube. The Owon 1HDS272S is probably a better unit

 

[kermit_rr]

Got an afternoon tea in a box from a local garden centre cafe, took it to New Brighton for a midnight snack.
Otto was smooth and quiet cruising down there at 70 on the cruise control, no hunting, much quieter and better riding on the new tyres.
Bumped the suspension up to extended so were sitting in comfort with sandwiches and cakes, watching all the dock cranes buzzing about and using the ship tracker on the phone to see what the stuff going in / out at the top of the tide was.
Cruised back at 60 with the cruise on, just as nice but hunted a little on the speed setting and kept switching the overdrive lock in and out for the hills which he didn't at 70. Diverted of the motorway onto minor roads for the last 15 miles because of roadworks.

Discovered a few new things to look at though.
Bit wandery at speed, not as solid on line as I expected, so will get the garage to do the suspension bushes they advised about this time for the MOT. From the threads on here, and going for comfort that will be a set of standard ones not polybush.
Loved the variable brightness dashboard lighting.
Heater very hit and miss, expected with the aircon not working but still more vague than I would expect - all or nothing and a bit wilful on the fan speed. Think we have some slightly sticky / worn blend motors not helping as it is a bit slow to swap screen to face to others when you press a button in manual mode. Had two huge blasts of heat though, both while going round left hand bends - one a fast tight sweeper on the motorway, a bit brisker than was comfortable, the other on a tight slow right hander.
Checking him over and doing some measuring this morning with everything cold (need a jack with enough lift, make sure we get an ultrasonic cleaner big enough for the solenoid block, etc) I noticed that the coolant header tank looked empty - same dirty plastic all the way from bottom to top. Bit concerned, opened the pressure cap to be fountained over by about half a litre of coolant. Concerned now that this might indicate a head gasket issue from what I have seen on here (GEMS 4.0 1996) although temp gauge is stable, comes up briskly, drops OK, no signs of coolant leaks. Now wondering if there is some sort of trapped airlock or debris blocking the heater matrix causing the odd effects and being shifted occasionally by the right turns. After the coolant had fountained out, level in the header tank was a bit low, just showing above the bottom hose connection so started and ran him, topping up as required. Took about the amount that had been lost to get to the level it had been last time I checked. Top hose gets hot once the gauge is about half way to normal, not hard, soft and when squeezed the header tank level gurgles and moves. Bypass hose from the top of the radiator flows through to the header tank almost immediately on start up, which I thought was odd - shouldn't it only do that when the thermostat opens and the top hose gets hot? Or does it pressurise the rad system via the bottom hose and flow the bypass anyway?
So - aircon to search through and see what and where the leak is, get it solid and working again.
Coolant - chase the airlock / gasket / blockage / whatever and get that sorted.
Heater - maybe have to delve into the blend motors and the like, in due course.

Was the engine hot when you took the cap off? I would expect it to dump coolant if so

 

[Scotiawhiskers]

Was the engine hot when you took the cap off? I would expect it to dump coolant if so

Morning after - stone cold. I don't open a hot system, seen pictures of what happens on a first aid course years ago.
It foamed as it came out, which is why I was worried about head gasket maybe, but hasn't shown any signs of bubbles or foaming before, so I presume just pressure release like opening a shaken coke bottle. And no signs of bubbles / foaming as I ran it up to temperature with the cap off after either.
It was almost as if it was pressurised from somewhere else with an airlock which had pushed the coolant up into the header tank and kept it there. But I can't see from the diagrams and my understanding of coolant systems how it could do that. Air rises, so should logically trap at the header tank, or thermostat, or top of radiator. And no sign of any problem with that previously.