P38A Immobiliser removel

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It does mean that a valid unlock signal has not been received and so the BECM has not sent the code to re-mobilise the EDC.

No, with Engine immobilised message the engine cannot be turned with the starter. It is the starter circuit that is disabled. With ECM/BECM out of sync you can turn the engine over for ever but it will not start. Different circuits.
 
I’ve had ‘engine immobilised’ put key in press button is okay - good reason for new fob battery or you will be stuck in fuel station. I popped the the fuel flap when button broke is what triggered it so my immobiliser is still armed.

Never had loss of sync (touch walnut)

I have my original blue-dot RF unit with blue cable disconnected and taped over, 3 earth points cleaned/painted (chassis leg, gearbox, under fusebox) never had battery issue since
 
Not sure about that. They are separate circuits. Otherwise when you disable passive immobiliser the ECM/BECM sync would also be disabled and i can assure you it is not.
When you turn off the immobiliser in the BECM, the code is sent automatically to the EDC without the need for a valid FOB code or anything else to be sent to the BECM.
 
When you turn off the immobiliser in the BECM, the code is sent automatically to the EDC without the need for a valid FOB code or anything else to be sent to the BECM.

Ok carry on you know best. The point being made is that the dash message has nothing to do with ECM/BECM sync. Some seem to think it does and it does not.
 
If you disable the alarm does that also disable need for ECM/BECM sync. I don't think it does.
The alarm is a different issue, I do not turn the alarm off, but if the alarm was turned off the EDC would still need the code. If you turn off the immobilliser the BECM sends the sync ode to re-mobilise the EDC regardless of how you enter the car, with or without the FOB.
Nothing removes the need for the BECM to send the code to the EDC, just the initiation of sending the code is changed.
 
The alarm is a different issue, I do not turn the alarm off, but if the alarm was turned off the EDC would still need the code. If you turn off the immobilliser the BECM sends the sync ode to re-mobilise the EDC regardless of how you enter the car, with or without the FOB.
Nothing removes the need for the BECM to send the code to the EDC, just the initiation of sending the code is changed.

The passive immobiliser, which is what the engine immobilised message is about, (the BECM not having received a valid RF signal from the fob) has nothing to do with the ECM/BECM sync. If the ECM/BECM security codes are different and not synced there is no indication. Other than the security code stored in the BECM being scrambled and different from the code locked in the ECM. The passive immobilisation disables the starter circuit. So the engine cannot be turned over, if it could be it would start..
 
The passive immobiliser, which is what the engine immobilised message is about, (the BECM not having received a valid RF signal from the fob) has nothing to do with the ECM/BECM sync. If the ECM/BECM security codes are different and not synced there is no indication. Other than the security code stored in the BECM being scrambled and different from the code locked in the ECM. The passive immobilisation disables the starter circuit. So the engine cannot be turned over, if it could be it would start..
You are saying what I said, maybe I do not explain very clearly. The BECM has to be prompted to send the sync code to the EDC, you tell me how that is done.
Have you tried to start the engine by jumping the starter relay when the "Engine Immobilised" message is present?
 
I’ve had ‘engine immobilised’ put key in press button is okay - good reason for new fob battery or you will be stuck in fuel station. I popped the the fuel flap when button broke is what triggered it so my immobiliser is still armed.

Never had loss of sync (touch walnut)

I have my original blue-dot RF unit with blue cable disconnected and taped over, 3 earth points cleaned/painted (chassis leg, gearbox, under fusebox) never had battery issue since

Had it a few times with my old RF receiver. Mostly outside my house which I think was caused by the wireless temperature sensor on my weather station. Also happened to the missus in a car-park in town. No message, engine just cranks endlessly. No fuel at injectors. PITA.

Not had it since the upgrade. Driver's door lock is still the same actuator too.
 
Had it a few times with my old RF receiver. Mostly outside my house which I think was caused by the wireless temperature sensor on my weather station. Also happened to the missus in a car-park in town. No message, engine just cranks endlessly. No fuel at injectors. PITA.

Not had it since the upgrade. Driver's door lock is still the same actuator too.

And what did you do to rectify this anomaly?
 
Correct. The only way out is with diagnostics which is why I never leave home without diagnostics, having said that, mine has never lost sync.

It won't do unless one of the previously mentioned reasons happens. You will get the dash message. Grrrrrr will not.
 
Spent a while at the car this evening,connected the nanocom and disabled the EKA and Immobiliser also put new batterys in the fob.
thought it was sitting low on left side so checked for faults on EAS while i was there and it came back with 4 faults- out of callibration front left ,front right ,back left and back right
 
Spent a while at the car this evening,connected the nanocom and disabled the EKA and Immobiliser also put new batterys in the fob.
thought it was sitting low on left side so checked for faults on EAS while i was there and it came back with 4 faults- out of callibration front left ,front right ,back left and back right

Calibration block dimensions are in Wammers post in the Technical Section, I think. Easy job. I'd split the difference across each axle as it doesn't make that much difference as long as they're within expected ranges.
 
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