Series 2 Not starting on crank handle

[Trench Rat]

So, at the moment i can only start the series on a crank handle as the key isn't doing anything in the ignition. It's fine it works and fires on the first turn.

Yesterday i did some poking about to try and resolve the not starting issue, all i did was remove the wires from the battery to the starter solenoid, brush up the contacts and then replace them as they were.

Today i went to start it just now, it's simply not starting on the crank, absolutely nothing, i'm doing it the same way as always.

I can't see how it would be related to what i did yesterday whatsoever, could it be the heat?

Cheers

 

[Blackburn]

how many wires on your solenoid ?
Often ignition supply is from solenoid to rear of dash generally brown wire should be on battery side of solenoid.

 

[Trench Rat]

how many wires on your solenoid ?
Often ignition supply is from solenoid to rear of dash generally brown wire should be on battery side of solenoid.

Would the solenoid have any effect on starting with the handle though? I've not been starting on the key for a few months now, handle was working fine when i last did it wednesday.

Solenoid is a pushbutton one, not working, not even clicking but spins the motor on the button. Currently 2 small spades and one larger one going to one terminal and one large spade on the other.

I'm **** with electronics.

 

[Colthebrummie]

Does the ignition light come on when the key is turned to the ignition on position.

Col

 

[Trench Rat]

Does the ignition light come on when the key is turned to the ignition on position.

Col

Yep. No obvious changes since when I crank started it on Wednesday, full electrics, ignition light, same procedure.

Just decided it wouldn’t turn. I’ve just finished work, going to eat and then see if I can start it now

 

[Colthebrummie]

Have you tried the dodgy trick of sticking a hefty screwdriver or similar across the solenoid terminals. I would have thought a push button solenoid would work by pushing its button. Unless the internal contacts are knackered. Time for a new solenoid by the sound of it.

Col

 

[Trench Rat]

Just tried. No joy. Turns fine, just doesn’t fire. Doesn’t make any sense to me, worked just fine when I last turned it on a few days ago.

 

[Trench Rat]

Have you tried the dodgy trick of sticking a hefty screwdriver or similar across the solenoid terminals. I would have thought a push button solenoid would work by pushing its button. Unless the internal contacts are knackered. Time for a new solenoid by the sound of it.

Col

It’s not the starter motor I’m trying to start it on. I’ve tried the screwdriver and get the same result as the push button. The starter spins but doesn’t engage and turn the engine.

That’s why I’ve been using the handle for the past months. Yet today it decided the handle wasn’t going to work either, which is sort of important as I move it back and forth every few days to stop the clutch sticking.

 

[Colthebrummie]

Oh, ok. I thought the problem was it wouldn't crank with the starter, hence you using the cranking handle. If it's turning over, the next thing to check is for a spark, it is petrol isn't it?

Col

 

[Colthebrummie]

Sorry, your #8 post hadn't come through when I did my last post. Hadn't quite realised the starter was spinning but not engaging.

Col

 

[Trench Rat]

Oh, ok. I thought the problem was it wouldn't crank with the starter, hence you using the cranking handle. If it's turning over, the next thing to check is for a spark, it is petrol isn't it?

Col

The starter has been a problem a long while and the mobile mechanic that installed it for me has decided to stop responding.

Yup, petrol, it’s turning but not firing, new plugs as of about 2 weeks ago, leads all seem good. Like I said, it worked beautifully earlier this week, it’s a brilliant engine that fires on the first turn of the handle usually. Hence the confusion. I’m guessing fuel line related?

Cheers

 

[Colthebrummie]

You could give it a few turns on the handle with the choke out, then remove a plug to see if it's wet, if it is, there is petrol going through ok. Maybe you should double check all wires to the solenoid, coil and dizzy, it sounds more electrical to me. It's unusual for the fuel side of things to just suddenly stop working but not at all unusual for electrics.

Col

 

[Trench Rat]

You could give it a few turns on the handle with the choke out, then remove a plug to see if it's wet, if it is, there is petrol going through ok. Maybe you should double check all wires to the solenoid, coil and dizzy, it sounds more electrical to me. It's unusual for the fuel side of things to just suddenly stop working but not at all unusual for electrics.

Col

Okay thanks, I did remove the wires from the solenoid, clean them and then replace them but I can’t see that doing this.

Thanks Col, I’ll take a look at this when I wake up. Cheers

 

[Dippypud]

Also check the LT side, I use a bulb cos it's easier ... also the little carbon brush in the dizzy cap, (unless you've fitted posh leccy ignition) ...

 

[Colthebrummie]

Okay thanks, I did remove the wires from the solenoid, clean them and then replace them but I can’t see that doing this.

Thanks Col, I’ll take a look at this when I wake up. Cheers

It's dead easy to accidentally disturb something when poking about under the bonnet, check all the HT leads are good and tight. Regarding the starter motor, have you tried whacking it with a stout length of wood whilst a helper turns the key?

Col

 

[wireman]

Take the starter off and give it an oil, I've had a couple that have turned really slowly until they are cleaned up.

 

[Trench Rat]

So, mechanic popped over. He confirmed that the previous owners leccy job was ****ing awful.

He's said i need a new solenoid for the starter, a new contact set and a new condensor. Could i just confirm with someone that these are the right parts? It's saying engine suffixes and not sure if that means C or later, or specifically C.

https://www.paddockspares.com/rtc3472-condensor.html
https://www.paddockspares.com/13h5952-starter-solenoid-s3-4cyl-petrol.html
https://www.paddockspares.com/rtc3472-condensor.html

My last solenoid was push button, i'd like that again but this one is chepa and will do i guess.

Could you weigh in on this for me @jamesmartin please?

 

[Colthebrummie]

Almost any solenoid will do as long as it's 12v. I don't think you can get the push button type anymore, I've been looking for one for ages. Same with the condenser. You might be better off with an electronic ignition module to replace your points and condenser, it makes starting and running easier in most cases and is maintenance free. Most condensers these days are rubbish anyway.

Col

 

[Trench Rat]

Almost any solenoid will do as long as it's 12v. I don't think you can get the push button type anymore, I've been looking for one for ages. Same with the condenser. You might be better off with an electronic ignition module to replace your points and condenser, it makes starting and running easier in most cases and is maintenance free. Most condensers these days are rubbish anyway.

Col

Okay, i'll look into that i reckon. Though at the moment i just need the damn thing mobile so i can help out when it's needed. Would the linked ones be suitable? I'm not sure what i'm looking for if i go for an electronic ignition module.

 

[Colthebrummie]

Yes those parts would be suitable. The electronic ignition module to look for would be something like a Sparkrite xs6000. They are designed for Lucas distributers, and are as easy to fit as a set of points. You just need to make sure you coil is suitable though, if in doubt, a new sparkrite coil is about £18.

Col