Disco 3 electronic handbrake

[sophmills96]

Hey everyone, so I’m new to this forum (hi!!) recently I’ve been having a knocking noise come from the drivers rear wheel and was told by a tyre centre that the handbrake eye/hook had broken and it’s causing something to drop and hit against the wheel causing an embarrassing ticking noise. It sounds just like when you have a stone in your tyre! Anyone any ideas on where this is or what it’s like to change as im currently booking it in at LR but know I’m going to get stung!

I have noticed there is a loose cable on the drivers rear wheel section, but there isn’t on the passenger.

Many thanks, Sophie.

 

[gstuart]

Hey everyone, so I’m new to this forum (hi!!) recently I’ve been having a knocking noise come from the drivers rear wheel and was told by a tyre centre that the handbrake eye/hook had broken and it’s causing something to drop and hit against the wheel causing an embarrassing ticking noise. It sounds just like when you have a stone in your tyre! Anyone any ideas on where this is or what it’s like to change as im currently booking it in at LR but know I’m going to get stung!

I have noticed there is a loose cable on the drivers rear wheel section, but there isn’t on the passenger.

Many thanks, Sophie.

hi and welcome

the handbrake cable does go into a securing hook style clip on each of the rear lower wishbones, will try and find a pic ,

but can’t see it causing a noise like that as the clip would simply fall off, bit difficult trying to identify the noise as it could be several things , unless the handbrake cable is knocking against the wishbone

pretty sure u can buy those clips separately

there are other D3 owners here and maybe they’ve had that kind of noise

where abouts in the u.k. are u please and will see if i can find those pics , so u know what it looks like

 

[gstuart]

here u go , this is just an example

u can see the clip on the wishbone and the handbrake cable clips inside that

 

[gstuart]

here u go, hope that helps and a DIY job if ur handy with the spanner’s

RH clip
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/s...de-discovery-3--range-rover-sport-97016-p.asp

LH clip
https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/s...de-discovery-3--range-rover-sport-97022-p.asp

 

[lynall]

If you look closely at the pic that Gary has posted you will wee the clip has worn badly on the inside this makes it razor sharp and can damage the cable itself, the cable one side has a sensor in it that measures how much effort the handbrake is applying

Always worth putting your approx location in you user name bit as a local member may be able to have a quick look see for you.

Have you got any land rover indies near you? as got to be cheaper than the main dealer.

 

[gstuart]

If you look closely at the pic that Gary has posted you will wee the clip has worn badly on the inside this makes it razor sharp and can damage the cable itself, the cable one side has a sensor in it that measures how much effort the handbrake is applying

Always worth putting your approx location in you user name bit as a local member may be able to have a quick look see for you.

Have you got any land rover indies near you? as got to be cheaper than the main dealer.

you’ve got a sharp eye ref that clip

 

[lynall]

you’ve got a sharp eye ref that clip

I noticed it on mine when I first bought the car, 12 quid delivered from memory, mainly effects drivers side I think.
My job as boring as it is involves nothing but trying to spot things that have gone wrong or are about to go wrong to prevent breakdowns.

 

[gstuart]

I noticed it on mine when I first bought the car, 12 quid delivered from memory, mainly effects drivers side I think.
My job as boring as it is involves nothing but trying to spot things that have gone wrong or are about to go wrong to prevent breakdowns.

if i’m honest i haven’t noticed if mine are like that , but good they are at least available as a separate part

shame i didn’t have the same amount of tools as u, trying to get that back top strut nut done up, managed to get the heat shield out and looks as though i should be able sneak down onto the socket , famous last words , lol

 

[lynall]

if i’m honest i haven’t noticed if mine are like that , but good they are at least available as a separate part

shame i didn’t have the same amount of tools as u, trying to get that back top strut nut done up, managed to get the heat shield out and looks as though i should be able sneak down onto the socket , famous last words , lol

You can never have to many tools ever

 

[freelance]

Gary, have you checked your handbrake clips yet??

 

[gstuart]

Gary, have you checked your handbrake clips yet??

i haven’t yet but i will now, lol

looks sunny friday so can check then

 

[gstuart]

You can never have to many tools ever

i even had to order some viscous spanner’s, blimey i didn’t realise the bleeding size of them

know one of the best tools that’s been a life saver is those irwin sockets

 

[lynall]

i even had to order some viscous spanner’s, blimey i didn’t realise the bleeding size of them

know one of the best tools that’s been a life saver is those irwin sockets

Ive had the Irwins for years very handy tool, but dont like being hit with a hammer multiple times as they tend to bell out!
Other good tool is the nut buster pliers, really dig in and grip unlike std slip joint pliers

 

[gstuart]

Ive had the Irwins for years very handy tool, but dont like being hit with a hammer multiple times as they tend to bell out!
Other good tool is the nut buster pliers, really dig in and grip unlike std slip joint pliers

ur going to cost me a trip to ebay, lol, never heard of those pliers

shame they don’t do something like a Uj but is more rigid, if that makes sense

@lynall , if i may ask plse from a mechanics point of view , in my strut post would a crow foot be the best tool to gain access to the restricted area of those strut top nuts plse and a real sod to get to and still got to get to the other side , thks as always, will put the pics here to save u looking for them

 

[freelance]

What about a long extension with a wobble end as opposed to the universal joint, and then use sockets as normal, best for bolt head and your knuckles

 

[lynall]

Tbh crow feet wrenches arent much cop for tight nuts as like all std open enders they tend to open up and damage the fastener.
Ive got a set in my tool box, must be 20 yrs old and Im sure I have never ever used them! plus add in the extension/ratchet you need to drive them and they really are useless.

When putting back together I can highly recommend flanged nuts, spin up with your fingers bit of **** and the little teeth on the underside of the flange drip really well.
I used std stainless flanged nuts on the 200tdi/series install best of all in the larger sizes they tend to have a smaller head, so for example an M10 nut/bolt would normally need a 17mm spanner, with flanged nuts its 15mm spanner.
Not all flanged nuts have teeth on the bottom and again its not the end of the world if they dont so long as tightened properly will be no issues, I use them all the time at work and really like them.
Nothing worse than trying to wind a nylock nut up in a hard to reach area.

 

[lynall]

Just thought you can get sockets/universal joints in on piece, I use them for gearbox removal on a cordless 3/8 gun as small and easy to get into tight spaces.
I have aste of 1/2 cheap ones and they are a bit chunky, another set of snap on 3/8 ones are much more compact
What size do you need?

Like this, mine are impact so are fatter which should mean the chrome ones are thinner/smaller.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-3...453396&hash=item2391d5a400:g:4LQAAOSwubZZ6JHJ

 

[gstuart]

Just thought you can get sockets/universal joints in on piece, I use them for gearbox removal on a cordless 3/8 gun as small and easy to get into tight spaces.
I have aste of 1/2 cheap ones and they are a bit chunky, another set of snap on 3/8 ones are much more compact
What size do you need?

Like this, mine are impact so are fatter which should mean the chrome ones are thinner/smaller.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-3...453396&hash=item2391d5a400:g:4LQAAOSwubZZ6JHJ

hi mate

bless u and will check them out

many thks once again for all the great help

 

[gstuart]

Tbh crow feet wrenches arent much cop for tight nuts as like all std open enders they tend to open up and damage the fastener.
Ive got a set in my tool box, must be 20 yrs old and Im sure I have never ever used them! plus add in the extension/ratchet you need to drive them and they really are useless.

When putting back together I can highly recommend flanged nuts, spin up with your fingers bit of **** and the little teeth on the underside of the flange drip really well.
I used std stainless flanged nuts on the 200tdi/series install best of all in the larger sizes they tend to have a smaller head, so for example an M10 nut/bolt would normally need a 17mm spanner, with flanged nuts its 15mm spanner.
Not all flanged nuts have teeth on the bottom and again its not the end of the world if they dont so long as tightened properly will be no issues, I use them all the time at work and really like them.
Nothing worse than trying to wind a nylock nut up in a hard to reach area.

must admit i did fit some new stainless nyloc nuts for that top strut , but can easily buy some flanged nuts and know what u mean ref the teeth on the back of the nut

just appreciate ur help and knowledge

thks again