revjames
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Thanks for the kind offer but I think I have that one on a pdf file on the PC. Who needs manuals when we have the wealth of knowledge on LZ?
Help - Heater don't work!
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Thanks for the kind offer but I think I have that one on a pdf file on the PC. Who needs manuals when we have the wealth of knowledge on LZ?
PASTMASTER
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Then sort of wonder why you bought a crappy Haynes manual - there are cheaper doorstops.
revjames
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Well actually I didnt buy it. I got it with the disco. So there you go. assuming makes an ASS out of U and ME.
Sirus
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Nope correction assuming makes an ASS of U and Ming
Sirus
Your all Banned except me
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see we agree on something Ming is an ass
revjames
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I'm far too polite to say that sort of thing about ming. OOO who's a poet and did'nt know it?
PASTMASTER
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That's strange - I got one free with a Disco as well. In Wales come to think of it. And it was useless. Surely not the same one? Assumptions, assumptions - thought they were some sort of religious festival.
revjames
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OK back to the Disco. Went to the shops today and left the cap off while I waited outside for the missus. Went round 4 shops and each time I waited outside with engine running. Didnt get hot and Water didnt gush out, very little movement before stat opened then a bit of disturbance but nothing too much and I was able to keep my hand over the top. Top hose hot, heater hoses cold. Which one is the heater flow? Is it the one coming out the top of the head and into the bulkhead or the one which tees into the bottom hose and then connects to a steel pipe along the top of the head. I am going to backflush the heater with a hose if I can work out which was is back.
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tiz a daft point - but yu tried removing the engine end of one of the heater pipes and stuffing a hose pipe into it to force water around the system?
revjames
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Just did that now, didnt want to use too much pressure though. I was worried about blowing the seals on thr matrix. I did notice that the hose that connects to the top of the head was slightly kinked which would have flattened it out. So straightened out and flushed now I ran it for 15 mins on a fast idle, got temp gaquge up to 1/3 but no heat inside and top hose only lukewarm.
??????
??????
revjames
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Just drove to Valley (5 miles) with cap off stopped and the tank water was barely lukewarm. Drove another couple of miles to a friends house and there was a moment when a bit of heat came through but went cold again very soon. All the time this is going onthe gauge is showing about 3/8 to 1/2. Do you reckon the thermostat is stuck open even partially?
Get Your Self A Length Of Hose That Will Fit Snuggly Into The Neck Of Your Header Tank And Connect The Other End To A Container With Coolant In It And Hang It From Your Bonnet And Leave It Over Night If You Can And Let Gravity Do The Rest,it Might Just Help Your Cause.
Good Luck
Good Luck
revjames
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sorry t keep on about this but its cold and not much fun driving round with no heaters. This is whats happened so far:
A few months ago disco got a bit hot on a run, noticed coolant low and disappearing. Later tracked it down to a cracked expansion tank.
Replaced it and thought I had it sorted because now the system is holding pressure.
Overheated again and noticed low coolant level. Tracked leak down to P gasket. Changed it but now water pump leaking (makes me think was it just water pump all along?) Ended up changing the pump.
Now the cooling system does not leak any water, nor over pressurise or anything adverse. The heaters however, remain cold or lukewarm at best. I have tried driving round with ex tank cap off, I've tried stuffing the hosepipe in the heater hoses, I've tried ragging it at high revs to get heat through and its the same every time. cold
The thing is it used to get hot. when the ex tank was cracked etc. But was that because there was probably never that much water in it and not pressurised either? The temp gauge indicates a steady 3/8 - 1/2 but even after driving for half an hour the water in the tank is barely tepid.
If the thermostat was staying open do you think it would cause this? How accurate is the gauge anyway?
I'm getting a bit fed up now, any suggestions would be helpful. Ta
A few months ago disco got a bit hot on a run, noticed coolant low and disappearing. Later tracked it down to a cracked expansion tank.
Replaced it and thought I had it sorted because now the system is holding pressure.
Overheated again and noticed low coolant level. Tracked leak down to P gasket. Changed it but now water pump leaking (makes me think was it just water pump all along?) Ended up changing the pump.
Now the cooling system does not leak any water, nor over pressurise or anything adverse. The heaters however, remain cold or lukewarm at best. I have tried driving round with ex tank cap off, I've tried stuffing the hosepipe in the heater hoses, I've tried ragging it at high revs to get heat through and its the same every time. cold
The thing is it used to get hot. when the ex tank was cracked etc. But was that because there was probably never that much water in it and not pressurised either? The temp gauge indicates a steady 3/8 - 1/2 but even after driving for half an hour the water in the tank is barely tepid.
If the thermostat was staying open do you think it would cause this? How accurate is the gauge anyway?
I'm getting a bit fed up now, any suggestions would be helpful. Ta
Unless the engine is boiling clouds of steam after 10 minutes of running, the coolant MUST be going through the radiator.
If that is so, then if the engine isn't heating up enough, there must be too much coolant passing through the radiator.
There is probably only one cause .... thermostat stuck open or opening far too soon.
CharlesY
If that is so, then if the engine isn't heating up enough, there must be too much coolant passing through the radiator.
There is probably only one cause .... thermostat stuck open or opening far too soon.
CharlesY
The water in the header tank is probably not in the full flow of the system, and it may never get really up to temperature.
The gauge is a rough guide only. It responds only to a narrow band of temperatures, and many will not lift the needle till they are quite warm, and then they move quickly to "normal". Just a little more than "normal" temp may send the needle way into the red.
On the other hand, a proper capillary tube gauge would be pretty good, uses no electricity, and reads temperatures from as low as 20°C to about 120°C.
CharlesY
PASTMASTER
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On my TD5 it's very obvious when the 'stat opens - the needle shoots up from cold to medium in about three seconds. Not sure if your model would do that, but if it doesn't, suspect a stuck stat (better open than stuck though!)
Jason2
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Yes indeed, but it depends WHERE the temp sender is placed.
If it is placed immediately AFTER the thermostat we get as you describe.
In my 2.5NA the sender was in the head at the back of the engine and so wasn't affected by what the thermostat was up to.
I always check a car when I get it to find out where the sender is, and then you know better what the temp gauge is trying to tell you.
CharlesY
revjames
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Thanks guys, will get a stat asap, You have a point about the radweld Jason. Will a reverse flow of water be enough to get rid of the radweld or do I need something else to flush it with?
PM me yer address and i'll post you a couple tomorrow, i've got about 40+ genuine ones in me garage not doing anything, apart from taking up space
xmas comes early down ere
