Disco 2 ACE update
- Thread starter MJI
- Start date
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Nice, let's hope it works out. Are you using the original pipes, or have you got some flexy ones in mind? You might have the makings of a repair / upgrade kit there!
I think that is the plan of the chap doing it, I wil be paying by supplying an exchange block
tulipandthistle
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I have just done this to mine, absolutely great, no leaks and no faults anymore. The cornering is brilliant now.
I used the original steel pipes as they were still good.
I used the original steel pipes as they were still good.
tulipandthistle
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i just brought it to my local engineer
tulipandthistle
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it is great when it is done properly
I guess it´s just easier to say "remove it", without trying to find a solution for it. New valve blocks are expensive, which is what is wrong with mine, and I can´t justify the cost vs the value of the car, but there must be more economical ways to do it.
tulipandthistle
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A second hand one on EBay is around £70, I didn't need one as it was just leaking on the pipes. That got drilled out anyway.
The fittings were around £20 and the engineers shop cost me £50, it was not that expensive for the improvement it made on the handling
Just found this, and if anyone says that taking out the ACE system is no different from having normal ARBs probably only drives in a straight line.
tulipandthistle
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To right, it is amazing the difference it makes in road handling.
Found one for you for £55
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVE...245361?hash=item281c585ef1:g:g2IAAOSw0fhXiNW6
Already looked at this exact one, but my worry is if the block comes from a car with already damaged ACE. How do they diagnose the block?
tulipandthistle
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The only thing that normally goes is the pipe connection, The valves them selves rarely go. If you do the mod above it doesn't matter if the pipe connection are damaged.
Also this company sells lots of LR stuff, they are normally tested before they removed it.
tulipandthistle
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What was wrong with yours?
tulipandthistle
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You don't need original pipes, I took the bit that was rotten out and connected it with normal 10mm copper pipes with a 10mm Hydraulic straight coupling. it is not that expensive.
All sorts.
No leaks, and it worked ok when turning right. When turning left the red light would come on. Had a full oil change and bleed, since the previous owner stuck some unknown fluid in there and probably ruined the block. Pump was working, since the system kicked in when turning left.
Also "jumped" every few seconds when stopped at the lights. No idea why!
tulipandthistle
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I hate it when they put the wrong stuff in. It sounds like one valve wasn't working properly. The system is very sensitive for dirt. I had to replace the pump, got one for £40 thanks to people removing their systems LOL
