R380 drain plug tightening?

[Galen]

Hi Folks,

I'm struggling to get a torque wrench and socket on to the drain plug in order to tighten it to the specified torque.

How do you chaps torque them up?

 

[cipx2]

How much time did you spend struggling ? Use a wrench and do it by hand.
If you didn't replace the copper washer you should tight it a little bit more (something like 10% more torque).

Read the paragraph that starts with "Once all the oil has drained out...." here: 5 speed box Oil change.
Everybody does it aprox like that.

 

[Galen]

I didn't spend too long trying to get the socket on. I'd already spent enough time under there cleaning the gunge off the box prior

Thanks for the pointer.

 

[CharlesY]

At least you are being careful!

Be aware as you go alonng with your repairs that some items MUST be tightened to specific torques (or the repair may fail or the fastening may break) but other items don't matter one little bit as long as they are tightened sensibly.

Your sump plug falls into the tighten sensibly category.

You will soon learn the take it easy ( maybe very easy .... ) when tightening a steel bolt (sump plug?) into a light alloy threaded hole, for example.

Other times you may be surprised how MUCH torque you are asked to apply to some things, especially cylinder head bolts / nuts, and crankshaft pulley nuts.

You were right to be careful. Don't let anyone put you off that trail.

CharlesY

 

[Galen]

Steady on now!
Cylinder head bolts and crankshaft pulley bolts??? I'm only doing a service :O

My TD5 is out of warranty now so i'm hoping to take care of it myself, hence the question. I'm sure i'll have more though

Incidentally, whilst i think on. The Rave information mentions using loctite 290 on the filler plug. Is that a necessary and good practice thing to do?

 

[Jason2]

Incidentally, whilst i think on. The Rave information mentions using loctite 290 on the filler plug. Is that a necessary and good practice thing to do?

Can't see why as filler plug should be slightly cone shaped, hence the reason for being careful when tightening as you might have to undo it again!

 

[slob]

At least you are being careful!



Other times you may be surprised how MUCH torque you are asked to apply to some things, especially cylinder head bolts / nuts, and crankshaft pulley nuts.



CharlesY

head bolts? parp! i just did me driveshaft nut back up 200lbs/ft or 300ish Nm

which wur interesting as me tork wench only goes to 140lbs/ft

 

[CharlesY]

Steady on now!
Cylinder head bolts and crankshaft pulley bolts??? I'm only doing a service :O

Just giving examples of things that are TIGHT!

My TD5 is out of warranty now so i'm hoping to take care of it myself, hence the question. I'm sure i'll have more though

ASK LOTS, and people here will help you from their actual experience.
Don't pay too much heed to theoretical expUrts though .... or snake-oil salesmen.

Incidentally, whilst i think on. The Rave information mentions using loctite 290 on the filler plug. Is that a necessary and good practice thing to do?

OK. First find out what Loctite 290 is for! Is it a "gasket goo" or a threadlocker? I reckon this is it:
"Medium to high strength low viscosity anaerobic threadlocker".
Now you have to decide WHY LandRover suggest you use a threadlocker on a sump plug. Is is necessary as a matter of routine, or is it just a fad for some crazy reason with about as much common sense behind it as EGR systems?

Take a vote on the list - how many actually use a threadlocker on their sump plugs. I will be surprised if anyone does, and if someone says he does, I would like the hear the logic behind that.

I wrap 2 or 3 turns of plumber's PTFE tape around the threads of all sump plugs I take out. This seals them well, AND acts as an anti-vibration agent AND makes it easy to get the plug out next time.

CharlesY

 

[Galen]

According to the loctite 290 technical data sheet <http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/290-EN.PDF>

"LOCTITE&#174; 290&#8482; is designed for the locking and sealing of
threaded fasteners. Because of its low viscosity and capillary
action, the product wicks between engaged threads and
eliminates the need to disassemble prior to application. The
product cures when confined in the absence of air between
close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and
leakage from shock and vibration. The product can also fill
porosity in welds, castings and powdered metal parts."

From that I would guess that the stealership would apply it in order to stop the plug working loose, and try to make the oil drips on the driveway a little smaller.

More reading required i think....

 

[cipx2]

CharlesY, Galen was asking about the filler plug, not the drain/sump plug (which has a copper washer).

Galen, I don't use anything on the filler plug and the place around it is as dry as a bone (same R380 gearbox). If you have the stuff then use it. If you don't, put it back as it was and if you will see that it leaks after while then you'll know what to do.