MAF Sensor output readings.

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Tim4x4

Well-Known Member
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In the shed
I have just tested the Voltage output from my MAF sensor.
I understand that the voltage is variable depending on the air mass flowing through the inlet tract.
The readings I am getting is 1.33 volts at engine tick over rising to 3.12 Volts at high RPM (I do not have a taco to give and actual RPM).
My understanding is the output will vary from 0 to 5 volts, is 3.12 volts indicating a MAF sensor fault or can this be dependent on the incoming air temperature? todays ambient temperature is 16 deg C (61 deg F).
 
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The voltage may be higher when you are driving the vehicle, rather than revving it up while stationary.
As the turbo won't be working the same for a start.
 
Disconnect it and go for a drive. It should run OK.
Then reconnect it and try again, it should be better. If it's no different then the MAF unit is almost certainly U/S
 
The reason I asked of a method of testing the MAF sensor was because my 110 TD5 has suddenly started to be difficult to drive smoothly when going slow in high range.
I can best describe it as surging, not able to keep a constant smooth speed. Traveling along in first gear high range on tick over the revs build and drop quickly, OK so this is not a major issue but it never used to do this.
I have given it a full service (it was due) and checked over pipes for holes, pipe clamps for secure, electrical connections for clean and secure, injector harness for oil, etc.
All appears to be good, having read of the MAF sensor issues on this forum I unplugged the MAF sensor expecting a drop in performance or at least some changes to driveability but no everything was just the same as when the MAF sensor was connected.
To me this indicated a faulty MAF sensor, using a Hawkeye diagnostic reader no faults wit h the MAF only the EGR valve but that is disconnected so I would expect a fault to be logged.
Not wanting to just cash out around £100.00 on a MAF sensor I wanted to be able to test the one I had, the information I found stated that output will vary from 0 to 5 volts on a good serviceable MAF sensor but not under what conditions I would expect the readings.
Having readings from 1.33 volts to 3.12 volts said to me that the MAF could be faulty but as lightning said the voltage may be higher when you drive the vehicle due to the turbo performing differently under load.
So I am back to square one or maybe not I could rig up the volt meter to the MAF sensor have the volt meter in the cab and go for a drive see what results this gives.
This I did, I still only had 3.3 volts. Again I had a dilemma the voltage reading looked to me to be low but at high revs the problem I had was at low revs (tick over) was the MAF sensor really my issue?
I decided to stop fafing around and buy a new MAF sensor genuine Land Rover issue, I fitted it and went for a drive.

Yes that was the problem it has made a difference driving at low revs is not a problem it is supper smooth.
Other things that have changed by replacing the MAF sensor are
1/ Starting is better it was not a problem before but always hear a pop p on starting from cold I put this down to the fifth cylinder which has not glow plug. I do not know why I thought this because I rarely waited for the glow plugs to warm up. The pop has now stopped when starting the engine.
2/ Better acceleration from standstill.
3/ The engine responds better to the throttle peddle through all revs
4/ in all a better vehicle to, drive.
These changes were not big and mind blowingly different but never the less they are changes for the better. :D:D:D
Money well spent but it could easily have been something else and money wasted. :mad:
 
Isn't that what l said?

Disconnect the MAF unit, if there's no difference....it's faulty

Fit a new one, and it runs better!
 
So has it got rid of the surging or hunting symptoms too?
Yes, lightning I should have listened (I was using the ears I use when my wife is talking). Surging has stopped it is so smooth now. I fitted a genuine LR part, I have been caught out on previous occasions. I keep away from none genuine parts where reliability is concerned and anything in a blue box is a no go area (I think my Defender rejects anything that has no LR DNA).
 
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