Diesel FIP

[Grrrrrr]

OK. SITREP.

FIP in place and times. High pressure pipes on at the FIP end and loose at the injector ends. Cranking engine but no fuel coming up the clear pipe.

Fuse 39 looks fine. Changed relay 12 for the fan one. Tank over 1/3 full.

How do I check the lift pump? Will cycling the ignition get it to pump each time?

 

[Grrrrrr]

Which terminals of relay 12 do I bridge to force the pump to work? 5 and 3?

 

[wammers]

Which terminals of relay 12 do I bridge to force the pump to work? 5 and 3?

3 and 5 will do it. Info on checking lift pump is in "How to" section.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Should have thought of that. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f71/checking-diesel-fuel-pump-flow-rate-182959.html

No flow. No noise. Not a single thing has gone right this weekend. I sill struggle to see how that stud fell out when the nut undid OK. The nut certainly wasn't cross-threaded as I checked it when it fell out.

Right, best order a new lift-pump.

Thanks fr the help. At least there's a positive somewhere.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Wammers, didn't you say you had to fit an NRV to the new fuel pumps? Any idea what size so I can order the lot together?

Cheers.

 

[tnseal]

How do you post pictures on here ?

 

[wammers]

Wammers, didn't you say you had to fit an NRV to the new fuel pumps? Any idea what size so I can order the lot together?

Cheers.

You don't have to. What i said was that genuine pumps had an NRV in them. The new OEM one i got didn't. Ok for cars after 1999 that have lift pump with glow lamps whilst engine running AND when cranking but may give problems on cars before that which only have lift pump whilst glow lamps are on and when engine is running. Something like this you will need to cut the feed to the filter and install it with a couple of short lengths of 8 mm ID rubber fuel pipe. 8MM 5/16" ONE WAY ALUMINIUM NON RETURN CHECK VALVE PETROL DIESEL OIL WATER | eBay

 

[wammers]

Should have thought of that. http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f71/checking-diesel-fuel-pump-flow-rate-182959.html

No flow. No noise. Not a single thing has gone right this weekend. I sill struggle to see how that stud fell out when the nut undid OK. The nut certainly wasn't cross-threaded as I checked it when it fell out.

Right, best order a new lift-pump.

Thanks fr the help. At least there's a positive somewhere.

Sad thing is you have just spent £600.00 on a injection pump and your problem could have been the lift pump.

 

[tnseal]

You can go for either the hole in the floor or drop the whole tank as per RAVE. You will need some plus gas as the flare nuts on the pump will be rusted to hell. It took a load of patience to undo mine. Order one with the olives and nuts included. Ask for extra olives, incase you drop them onto the tank. Ok if it's out, not if it's still in. The pipes are well on. Good spanners a almost new 1/2"=12.5mm will undo the 13mm. My special flare nut spanners would not touch them. A modified brake nut spanner could possibly do it. The gap being too small to fit over the pipe.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Sad thing is you have just spent £600.00 on a injection pump and your problem could have been the lift pump.

It had crossed my mind.

I was trying to work out if the lift pump would be affected by temperature?

Just shows. How long has that lift-pump been dead? Who knows? I haven't heard it in ages but then after a while these sounds sort of disappear into the background.

Just to be sure I just connected pin 5 of the relay to the battery. Nothing for that either. What a weekend. Next weekend: tank out ...

 

[wammers]

It had crossed my mind.

I was trying to work out if the lift pump would be affected by temperature?

Just shows. How long has that lift-pump been dead? Who knows? I haven't heard it in ages but then after a while these sounds sort of disappear into the background.

Just to be sure I just connected pin 5 of the relay to the battery. Nothing for that either. What a weekend. Next weekend: tank out ...

As Ant said you learn as you go. I would have checked the lift pump first of all. With any problem there is a logical progression. You don't fit a new body shell because a door won't shut.

 

[tomcat59alan]

It had crossed my mind.

I was trying to work out if the lift pump would be affected by temperature?

Just shows. How long has that lift-pump been dead? Who knows? I haven't heard it in ages but then after a while these sounds sort of disappear into the background.

Just to be sure I just connected pin 5 of the relay to the battery. Nothing for that either. What a weekend. Next weekend: tank out ...

Good move dropping the tank, you can check the brake pipes and flexies while it's out. Easy job while it's out, a bastard with it in. Fingers crossed that they are ok, this is turning into a marathon.

 

[Grrrrrr]

Who would have thought stalling twice a year in hot weather would be the lift pump? Been running fine otherwise. No-one else considered it! That's the problem with trying to diagnose over the internet. There are all sorts of things that you just sort of take note of when you're in front of the thing - if you know what you are doing!

On the upside the fuel system should be good by the end. I got the timing smack on 0.9mm and checked it 3 times by going round to TDC etc again. That is a result as the old one was at 1.16 after all the fiddling before.

The other good news is that before the compression tester jammed the first 3 cylinders were all about 320psi.

Learning lessons for others:

1) check the bloody lift-pump before you start!
2) buying the 17mm tool for the high-pressure pipes was a godsend. Made it so easy. £15 well spent.
3) Refurbed fuel-pump does not come with the o-ring. The o-ring is about 7cm across for the join between the FIP and the timing cover.
4) Have some extra-strong loctite on hand in case the FIP studs are loose.
5) The Bosch VE pumps guide has a nice picture of which high pressure pipe goes where. I marked up all lines at both ends with a Sharpie pen before I started. 1 stripe for #1 cylinder, 2 stripes ...
6) Good time to do a compression test while all the pipes are off and no fuel.
7) Probably worth getting new gaskets for the inlet manifold. Going to order some now!

 

[Grrrrrr]

Incidentally, to get the 12mm timing bolt out of the back of the new pump took a 2' breaker bar. The copper washer was actually pressed into the hole. The torque setting in RAVE? 25Nm!

 

[Grrrrrr]

You can go for either the hole in the floor or drop the whole tank as per RAVE. You will need some plus gas as the flare nuts on the pump will be rusted to hell. It took a load of patience to undo mine. Order one with the olives and nuts included. Ask for extra olives, incase you drop them onto the tank. Ok if it's out, not if it's still in. The pipes are well on. Good spanners a almost new 1/2"=12.5mm will undo the 13mm. My special flare nut spanners would not touch them. A modified brake nut spanner could possibly do it. The gap being too small to fit over the pipe.

Thanks.

I want to check what's behind the tan so going to go the whole hog. Also, I hate the idea of making a hole in the floor!

Sooner or later I'm going to have to do my heater o-rings too. I've done it the other bodgit way on another car but really don't want to do that to mine! Someone said there was a quick way of removing the dash but never provided any details. Worry about it when the time comes!

 

[Grrrrrr]

How do you post pictures on here ?

Click on "Go advanced". Look for the paperclip icon.

 

[Grrrrrr]

All back together again. Lift pump done too. Runs fine. Modulation dropped to about 70% and that's with pump set to 0.9mm. So, rest must be other sensors or chain stretch.

Replaced the inlet gaskets on reassembly: tip for removing old ones here for any newbies: use an old style razor blade / new stanley blade held flat, start at bottom left (almost always has some oil under it) then slide under the old gasket to bottom right, then slide to get the top right free and then finally the top left. Top left is almost always welded down. Acetone and scraping to get remainder off and looking polished.