Tie Rod Support

[Arctic2]

Hi Call out to members please whom have changed their lower engine tie rod support gear box, which one is used for the Fl 1 TD4 facelift and best place to obtain.

Is the Auto the same as the manual ?
LAND ROVER FREELANDER TD4 AUTO LOWER GEARBOX TIE ROD MOUNTING 01 onwards | eBay

LAND ROVER FREELANDER TD4 UPPER GEARBOX TIE ROD`01 on | eBay

Also looking to obtain and change the rear mounts on my FL 1 TD4 reason asking also I added the FL Td4 in the listing and it is coming back say not for use on TD4 ?
LAND ROVER FREELANDER 1 NEW REAR DIFF MOUNT DIFFERENTIAL MOUNTING KIT SET | eBay

cheers Arctic.

 

[Arctic2]

happy new to all and hope 2015 is good to all of us.

Now with all the festive jollies out of the way, I am looking to purchase a front tie rod support and rear mounts, well all the mounts for the FL, so can anyone say for certain that this is the front lower tie rod support for the FL 1 2004 any help is always appreciated cheers Arctic2

LAND ROVER FREELANDER 1 2001 ONWARD LOWER GEARBOX TIE ROD PART- KKH102680 | eBay

Also is the Auto tie rod the same as a manual one ?

LAND ROVER FREELANDER TD4 AUTO LOWER GBOX TIE ROD`01 on | eBay

As anyone also change the upper tie rod as this below.

Land Rover Freelander 1 TD4 Upper Gear Box Tie Rod 2001 on | eBay

 

[NeilTD4]

The part number you want for the lower one is KKH102680. I changed it last summer on my TD4 auto. The one I took off had the lump on the big end which I think is the one mainly used on the 1.8 petrol to damp out vibration, but they are basically the same…

 

[Nodge68]

Use the polyurethane version sold to Rover owners
This lasts much longer and supports the engine better.

 

[Arctic2]

Use the polyurethane version sold to Rover owners
This lasts much longer and supports the engine better.

That's interesting do you mean this one below, as I had a little part in these coming on the market through power flex as the original red one failed a few times on the R75 diesels, this led to the yellow one with the slots so there was more give in the bush.

I have a few in the shed so will dig one out and see if it fits and works thanks for the heads up

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=130209

 

[Arctic2]

Update from above as yesterday was a fairly mild day I managed to do some work on my FL1 and as such one of the job was to take a look at the engine lower tie rod.

After removing it I took it to the shed and put it in a small vice and below is what I found, should there be this much play in these tie rods/mounts or as some one fitted the wrong one.

The lower engine tie bar is held in place by to 15mm bolts top and bottom as here shown in Fig 1

1

With the car on ramps or on good axle stands rear wheels chocked making sure that the handbrake is fully on, put the car in neutral, you can then start to remove the tie rod, starting with the top right bolts 15 mm Fig 2

2

Loosen both bolts with a socket then you can use a 15mm ratchet spanner to do the rest with Fig 3

3

Remove both bolts as here in Fig 4

4

To fully remove tie rod from the engine and it's bracket push the large part up this will free the small part from the engine bracket Fig 5

5

As you push the large part up twist it right clockwise this then helps it to slide out of the gap between engine and bracket Fig 6

6

With the engine lower tie rod removed it can be inspected for wear and condition Fig 7

7

Once remove I took the tie rod to the shed and put it is a small vice and was really surprised just how much play was in the bush it's self ? surely this is not right video below any opinions please Arctic2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9bI7u_T2Ww

 

[Nodge68]

That slop in the bush isn't correct but very common. The polyurethane version is the one to use. Not the Rover 75 one pictured earlier in the thread. You need the rover 200, 25 & 400, 45 bush.

 

[Arctic2]

That slop in the bush isn't correct but very common. The polyurethane version is the one to use. Not the Rover 75 one pictured earlier in the thread. You need the rover 200, 25 & 400, 45 bush.

Thanks have these been used with good response ie vibration and noise wise, if so can anyone give feed back please, as I have travelled down this road before with power flex when we started using the large bush for the R75 diesel a few years back the RED version which later became the yellow version with slots added to help with vibration and to help stop the red ones tearing apart.

Lower Engine Mount OEM vs Others. - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Is this the right part if so

Rover 45 Powerflex Engine Mount Stabilisers (Large) PFF63-418 | eBay

 

[Nodge68]

Thanks have these been used with good response ie vibration and noise wise, if so can anyone give feed back please, as I have travelled down this road before with power flex when we started using the large bush for the R75 diesel a few years back the RED version which later became the yellow version with slots added to help with vibration and to help stop the red ones tearing apart.

Lower Engine Mount OEM vs Others. - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Is this the right part if so

Rover 45 Powerflex Engine Mount Stabilisers (Large) PFF63-418 | eBay

The Rover 45 bush is the one to fit. I had them bottom and top of my V6 Freelander and my MG ZS180. The ZS experienced more vibration than the Freelander. Unless you have a V6 Freelander, all you would need is a bottom bush.

 

[Alibro]

Sorry to drag up an old chestnut but I feel excessive movement when pulling away from a standstill, it feels like something is wobbling.
Car is an 04 1.8 face lift model with 104,000 miles.
I noticed the lower and upper bushes are worn and was going to replace them with these.
Rover 45 Powerflex Engine Mount Stabilisers (Large) PFF63-418 | eBay
Can anyone confirm if they are the correct item and are there any other engine or gearbox mount bushes I should change? Buying one bush is always silly money so I would prefer to spend a bit more and buy a kit which includes these. Does anyone know of such a kit, as any I have looked at don't seem to include these.


Thanks

Edit Might be a silly question but I know there is a bush on the drivers side upper and one under the engine but is there another on the upper passenger side?

 

[Arctic2]

Hi have ordered on of the power flex R45 mounts and once it come and as been fitted I will report back with the results Arctic2

 

[Alibro]

Hi have ordered on of the power flex R45 mounts and once it come and as been fitted I will report back with the results Arctic2

LOL, Race ya!

I ordered a pair last night too. :lol:

 

[Alibro]

Gonna have to get these fitted pronto. Got home today and the Missus is saying she can't drive it the way it is. I think the problem is more to do with her bad driving and needing a few more revs to pull away in a petrol car but I'm hoping they will make a difference or the car might have to go.
Not too many good diesels in my price bracket either.

 

[Arctic2]

LOL, Race ya!

I ordered a pair last night too. :lol:

The race is on at least they should be ok to press into the original mount

 

[Nodge68]

I have a used poly tie bar bush sitting on my workshop bench at this very moment.
To reduce vibration, it's a good idea to round off the outer edges. This gives some space for the bush to move. The Freelander subframe is a better design than that of the ZS though. Vibration wasn't an issue with my V6 but my bushes were rounded on the edges.

 

[Alibro]

Ya Boo, Looser. Both fitted. :lol:

Total time including driving car on the ramps 40 mins
Didn't mod them though as for now more concerned they work than they give vibration.

 

[Nodge68]

Ya Boo, Looser. Both fitted. :lol:

Total time including driving car on the ramps 40 mins
Didn't mod them though as for now more concerned they work than they give vibration.

That's the same set up I had on my V6. It really makes a massive difference to the engine's stability.

 

[Alibro]

Took it for a drive and the engine is nice and stable now. Didn't notice any vibration either so all good. Now to fix all the other issues.

 

[Arctic2]

I have a used poly tie bar bush sitting on my workshop bench at this very moment.
To reduce vibration, it's a good idea to round off the outer edges. This gives some space for the bush to move. The Freelander subframe is a better design than that of the ZS though. Vibration wasn't an issue with my V6 but my bushes were rounded on the edges.

Took it for a drive and the engine is nice and stable now. Didn't notice any vibration either so all good. Now to fix all the other issues.

Well done :clap2: you win past the post way before me, mine as not even arrived yet hopefully it will work on the TD4 just as good.

Hi Nodge.
Which part did you round off the internal edges or outer ones, do you have a photo of said item, I am also changing the rear bushes as I found the centre one to have failed badly quite a lot of movement of the prop and was getting a thud when changing gear into second sometimes, cheers Arctic

 

[Arctic2]

Well the R45 power flex mount arrived today and I finally got to fit it after chamfering the internal and external edges so it as more movement, I will post my how to along with most of the other work I have carried out since I purchased the FL1 in October.

Also managed to fit the rear centre front mount, so well happy with today's little bit of maintenance.

Rear centre mount