stc2260

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hi, I'm not sure what you are asking but I assume you are replacing a copper washer. If the replacement is the same size as the old one I cannot see the problem. If the old washer is in good condition then you could always anneal and reuse it. Heat till it's cherry red and drop it into water, job done.:)
 
tomcat59alan said:
Hi, I'm not sure what you are asking but I assume you are replacing a copper washer. If the replacement is the same size as the old one I cannot see the problem. If the old washer is in good condition then you could always anneal and reuse it. Heat till it's cherry red and drop it into water, job done.:)
Click to expand...

I like old time stuff how many know how to do that these days?
 
two days ago .control the injecting time for chain stress , change the copper washer ( buy it from a local plumping store ) thrown the old one away, it start good in hot condition but bad in cold ,
 
cheongthong said:
order a set set of glow plug BERU and change them too , all tester ok before I fit it ,
Click to expand...

If it's bad starting cold can only be glow plugs or ECU temp sensor not setting correct cold start fuel. Maybe fuel temp sensor could also be a problem. You need it on diagnostics to take live readings.
 
have a reading with the hawkeye but have not problem at all , i think the copper washer should be a problem , before I control the chain stress every is fine , so maybe the one from the plumping store is to thick , will thickness have influence on the fuel pump injection
 
cheongthong said:
have a reading with the hawkeye but have not problem at all , i think the copper washer should be a problem , before I control the chain stress every is fine , so maybe the one from the plumping store is to thick , will thickness have influence on the fuel pump injection
Click to expand...

Which copper washer are you on about? I take it to be the one on the blanking plug where you insert the DTI adaptor, if that is the case it's thickness does not matter it cannot effect the fuel injected volume. What is the timing modulation?
 
Last edited:
modulation is good , have a copper washer today . think the copper washer outside diameter is a bit bigger, will re time the chain stress tomorrow if I have time what a job,,:D check with hawkeye 2.6 tot 3.9 ignition before DTC
 
cheongthong said:
modulation is good , have a copper washer today . think the copper washer outside diameter is a bit bigger, will re time the chain stress tomorrow if I have time what a job,,:D check with hawkeye 2.6 tot 3.9 ignition before DTC
Click to expand...

Copper washer cannot effect anything. Timing solenoid modulation should be between 45% and 55% at idle with engine warm. Ideally 50%. Hawkeye would not be my choice of diagnostics.
 
cheongthong said:
modution of the engine is in good , steady ,solid sound , exhaust gas clean and good

I will re time and see , what is wrong ,
Click to expand...

If the timing solenoid modulation is within the bounds quoted the static timing is near enough. If the modulation was high it would mean static was retarded if low would mean static is advanced. There are two pickup pips one 40 degrees before top dead centre and one 20 degrees after top dead centre. The crankshaft position sensor reads these positions and feeds signals back to the ECU. The number four injector measures actual start of injection and feeds that back to the ECU. The ECU then compares the signals from the crank sensor with the signal from number four injector and modulates the timing solenoid to adjust start of injection point. You can only measure this with diagnostics, at idle with a warm engine, timing solenoid modulation should be as near to 50% as possible and the point of injection as near to TDC as possible.
 
have re time the chain stress , it out to + 6 degree after TDC , re time back , turn the crankshaft clockwise five time to confirm that it good in order 1st time it is also out in order , after recheck it again and recheck five time before all is in order ,

modulation now on hawkeye at the lowest is 5.7 tot 7.1 at idling speed but the idle speed of my engine is a bit high 812 to 841 rpm. Take a drive and at 1800 to 2300 rpm modulation is at 8.8 tot 10.0 10.1 is the highest at full throttle..

it also fell to 4.1 if the car is pulling from high to low at 40 kilometer .
 
cheongthong said:
have re time the chain stress , it out to + 6 degree after TDC , re time back , turn the crankshaft clockwise five time to confirm that it good in order 1st time it is also out in order , after recheck it again and recheck five time before all is in order ,

modulation now on hawkeye at the lowest is 5.7 tot 7.1 at idling speed but the idle speed of my engine is a bit high 812 to 841 rpm. Take a drive and at 1800 to 2300 rpm modulation is at 8.8 tot 10.0 10.1 is the highest at full throttle..

it also fell to 4.1 if the car is pulling from high to low at 40 kilometer .
Click to expand...

Sorry i don't recognise the Hawkeye readouts. How are you getting degree readings whilst static timing? Why is idle so high, have you been playing with pump? Have you had top off?
 
cheongthong said:
the idling is always high when i bought the car 9 year ago , sorry for the degrees , is it plus 6 on test dial indicator
Click to expand...

Are you following the correct procedure as laid out in RAVE. Cam lift should be 0.90 mm with engine locked at TDC. You have to carry out a procedure to zero the DTI. Then lock engine at TDC then adjust pump until DTI reads 0.90 mm. You need to adjust idle to 750 with diagnostics but don't know if Hawkeye will do that. Idle can be altered if someone has had the centre section of injection pump off and not put it back in the correct place. Or maybe someone has raised the idle speed to mask a fuel quantity control fault. Standard setting for 750 RPM with Nanocom is 128 don't know if Hawkeye uses the same nomenclature.
 
:)
wammers said:
Are you following the correct procedure as laid out in RAVE. Cam lift should be 0.90 mm with engine locked at TDC. You have to carry out a procedure to zero the DTI. Then lock engine at TDC then adjust pump until DTI reads 0.90 mm. You need to adjust idle to 750 with diagnostics but don't know if Hawkeye will do that. Idle can be altered if someone has had the centre section of injection pump off and not put it back in the correct place. Or maybe someone has raised the idle speed to mask a fuel quantity control fault. Standard setting for 750 RPM with Nanocom is 128 don't know if Hawkeye uses the same nomenclature.
Click to expand...

He could always offer you a holiday in Belgium to sort it for him
 
I have done this a a couple of time 9 year , so it not a problem for me , the only thing is the cheap Chinese indicator that give me the trouble after 8 year of owning it . not so smooth as before ,, :D:D:rolleyes:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Matt Poiner
Air In Fuel 200tdi
2 3
Replies
40
Views
2K
Hicap phill
H
border
Ladder frame and Sump
Replies
3
Views
251
WoodyO
WoodyO
A
Classic Has anyone ever replaced the fuel line connectors to the fuel pump for a 1994 RR 3.9 V8 with AN connectors? If so, does anyone have the specs of them?
Replies
4
Views
576
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
D
L322 L322 2004 RR diesel TD6 no start. FUEL INJECT. SYSTEM message. Air in fuel line.
Replies
16
Views
2K
Dr Veg
D
T
Defender building pressure
Replies
0
Views
151
Tomo1
T
Back
Top