TD6 Front N/s caliper seized up

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Datatek said:
Sure it does but not with a fecking stumpy Scottish digit and a bit of wet & dry.
How many cars/bikes/engines have you built then?
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If the best advice you can give to someone is put new calipers, discs and pads on because one caliper is seized is frankly quite saddening, you are a #### sir, of possibly the highest order.

Now, here is a stumpy scotch middle finger to you.....:mil69:
 
I have taken the old pads out and replaced with new ones. However, I did not pop the piston out to re-insert the dust cover because, in all honesty, I think it might be better to send the caliper off to a re-conditioner like Bigg Redd for example. I'm a bit nervous about popping the piston out just in case I can't get it back in.

Have you got any instructions on how to clamp the hose prior to popping or do I need to buy a clamping tool for brakes.....as you can tell I've never actually removed one before so a bit apprehensive. Any blow-by-blow instructions would be invaluable. I've got a bleed kit, DOT 4 brake fluid, 11mm spanner for nipple but I haven't got a hose clamp.

Is it in the RAVE manual?

Your help would be much appreciated.
 
Hi Moveitall,,,

I appreciate you not having done this before.
I am merely trying to save you some dosh, unlike others who seem to intent on making you spend money unneccessarily.

By all means, if you feel unable to tackle this, simply buy a new or remanufactured one.

But, this is what i suggest you do, it really is quite easy so i will try to guide you as best i can should you choose to follow these instructions. (pop pistonTHEN clamp)

*Buy proper clamp for brake pipes.*
Procedure
Remove caliper from carrier, remove pads and wear sensor, try not to let weight of calliper hang off the flexi, use a piece of wire to support it off something within strut area...
Pump pedal until you feel it go weak, or have someone do this while you observe the piston, pump until it is out, it will probaly remain within dust cover, just remove piston then clamp flexi somewhere in the middle of its length is fine. You will lose about a half cup of fluid so have a container handy for it to spill into and some rags to clean up.

Now you can see the condition of the piston. They are normally made from steel with a chrome plating although it may be stainless steel. As brake fluid can harbour moisture, it may have some minor rust and gunge on it. Using 800 or 1000 grit wet or dry, try to clean the piston. If the rust is very pitted, then it is not fit for purpose,, if it cleans up ok then continue...
Next turn your attention to the sael. Gently pry the seal out, it is simply a square section o-ring, check it for slits, tears etc,, if it looks ok then great.
Check bore for rust also, and again clean up with the wet or dry, NOT in and out motion, but as if you are washing a cup.

Scoosh out with brake cleaner or fresh brake fluid. The bore is less important than the piston, although the grove for seal should be minted. The seal is the critical factor along with a nice smooth piston.

Make sure dust cover is not split,( small tears can be superglued ) and is properly seated, insert seal back into bore groove, smear a little clean brake fluid on seal and piston, then gently manipulate piston past dust cover, you will need to lightly stretch it over piston, then gently insert piston into bore, keep it square, remember it may be quite tight going over the seal, this is good. You should find that it will retreat into bore with firm pressure.

Bravo, jobs almost in the bag now.... reunite caliper and flexi. Refit caliper and pads and wear sensor...
Top up brake fluid resorvoir, if you have someone to help bleed the brakes all the better.
I don't know what type of bleed kit you have, the easiest one is a vessel with tube, ideally it will have a one way valve, not critical though. The tube should reach the bottom of vessel....Add some fluid to cover the bottom of the pipe inside vessel, attach other end of pipe to bleed nipple, slacken nipple, have assistant pump the pedal to the floor, hold for 2 seconds, then up, repeat this method until the air bubbles stop, keep pedal at floor until nipple tightened... Job done.... simples. Re-check resorvoir level and top up if needed.

Check pedal for firmness, remember it may take a pump or two to firm up as it has to push pads onto disc. Wheel back on , road test. If all is well, do the other side as preventive measure. Heck,do them all....your a pro now.

Best of luck.:)
 
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Or simply clamp flexi, remove caliper from flexi and refit new calliper in reverse procedure. Follow the bleeding exercise to finish. I can't recall the type of flexi on this, if its screw in fine, if it's bango type there will be two brass or alloy washers, you really should fit new ones. DONT overighten, and when job is completed, have assistant apply full pressure while you check for any leaks.


I forgot to mention, but check the two sliding plungers that the calliper attatches to, these should be easy to move in and out, they compensate for wear in pads. You can add some copper grease if they are dry.
Also, the stainless shims that the pads seat onto, the cast iron carrier beneath these should be free of major rust, and always use copper grease on these areas and on the pads where they seat..and on meatal faces where they contact piston and two wings on outer side of calliper. Just a smear, NOT glooped on.
I use a small brush. Also add a little grease to wheel studs and where wheel mounts onto disc, including centre boss. This stops the alloy wheel bonding to disc.

Sorry if you knew any off this already, i want to be thorough.:)
 
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Datatek said:
You go your way etc. I think it's a risky strategy advising people who may not have your skills to mess with brakes. It may come back to haunt you.
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Got to sympathise with that view Keith. Caliper pistons usually seize when the pads are so worn that the piston hits the ring of rust built up on the lip of the cylinder if the boot has been compromised. Usually just pushing the piston back and fitting new pads would solve the problem. The actual cylinder and piston very rarely get any contamination internally as long as the boot seal is intact around the piston itself. If the boot is intact it is much more likely to be seized sliders causing the problem. I agree that unless you really know what you are doing replacing pads should be as far as the average Joe goes, and even that with caution.
 
Total twaddle.....

Would be a good April 1st gag, '' thats guy you advised on brakes, he's DEAD cos of you,you encouraged him'' IF YOU ARE STUPID, DO NOT do it, simple.

So, he never took a piston out, big deal, calipers are nothing more than hydraulic servo's,

Anyone capable of putting my advice into action can save many £100's...
 
myfirstl322 said:
Total twaddle.....

Would be a good April 1st gag, '' thats guy you advised on brakes, he's DEAD cos of you,you encouraged him'' IF YOU ARE STUPID, DO NOT do it, simple.

So, he never took a piston out, big deal, calipers are nothing more than hydraulic servo's,

Anyone capable of putting my advice into action can save many £100's...
Click to expand...

Are you replying to my post or to Keith?
 
myfirstl322 said:
Total twaddle.....

Would be a good April 1st gag, '' thats guy you advised on brakes, he's DEAD cos of you,you encouraged him'' IF YOU ARE STUPID, DO NOT do it, simple.

So, he never took a piston out, big deal, calipers are nothing more than hydraulic servo's,

Anyone capable of putting my advice into action can save many £100's...
Click to expand...
Trouble is, stupid people are by definition too stupid to know they are stupid or to know their limitations or what they are or are not capable of.
 
Datatek said:
Trouble is, stupid people are by definition too stupid to know they are stupid or to know their limitations or what they are or are not capable of.
Click to expand...
You seem to get by...:eek:

Now if you'll excuse me, i have brake pipes to do for someone, he is stupid...... plus he hasn't got the flaring tool.

Oh well, money in the pocket and all that jazz:)
 
myfirstl322 said:
Data, you snuck in somewhere,
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Ok i don't disagree with your ethos, but unfortunately there are people on here who don't know their arse from their elbow, but think they are the worlds greatest mechanics because they once managed a Haynes two spanner job. Quite a lot on here have the mechanical aptitude of an Aboeba. You have to bare that in mind when you give out info.
 
You may or may not be right, but i will be studying the postumous Darwinian Award list closely, although i don't believe it neccessarily lists the vehicle you drive, only the deed. Maybe it's under ' B ' for Brake failure, or '' Bollocks '', as in the last word uttered by said recipient......:rolly: :pound:
 
myfirstl322 said:
You may or may not be right, but i will be studying the postumous Darwinian Award list closely, although i don't believe it neccessarily lists the vehicle you drive, only the deed. Maybe it's under ' B ' for Brake failure, or '' Bollocks '', as in the last word uttered by said recipient......:rolly: :pound:
Click to expand...

Unfortunately idiots can be idiots without any tuition. Quite a lot on here have only just progressed beyond blowing the tyres up. There are some who would make a balls of that. :D
 
Thanks to myfirstl322 I think I will attempt to remove piston and re-insert dust cover and then proceed to bleed brakes. Really appreciate the advise. I'll let you know how I get on later this week.
 
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