Height Sensor Readings and Calibration

[Datatek]

Hiya,

I'll put a vernier across the fixing centers later and double check them. Interestingly, on the FR there were three holes in the chassis (FL only has two). Only two being used for the sensor, but no bracket or heatshield.

Kev, do you mean do the cross over using the bullets in the main loom? That would work I think, but I think I'd rather get a new flylead sensor than confuse the current setup any further!!

Ant - I'm with you on that, but point above still stands

I'd use the new type sensor if at all possible.

 

[marcinbrighton]

I'd use the new type sensor if at all possible.

even with a cut about loom? I guess it makes it easier to buy spares in the future

I'm more than happy to take that advice coming from you keith (sorry Kev, nothing meant by that as I know it was your idea - we all know Wammers and Datatek are the resident experts on EAS!!), so I'll make sure it all works properly on the spade connectors, then cut the loom once I'm happy.

Hopefully the soldered joints should have less resistance than the spades / bullets so will get better readings too.

So, can I run the engine with the propshafts off with no issues? I assume I can, but always pays to check

Will report back once complete.

Cheers again.

 

[Datatek]

even with a cut about loom? I guess it makes it easier to buy spares in the future

I'm more than happy to take that advice coming from you keith (sorry Kev, nothing meant by that as I know it was your idea - we all know Wammers and Datatek are the resident experts on EAS!!), so I'll make sure it all works properly on the spade connectors, then cut the loom once I'm happy.

Hopefully the soldered joints should have less resistance than the spades / bullets so will get better readings too.

So, can I run the engine with the propshafts off with no issues? I assume I can, but always pays to check

Will report back once complete.

Cheers again.

Absolutely, a cut about loom is no problem, solder any joints and and insulate with glue filled heatshrink. You could get the correct connector and a short end of loom from a breakers, Emmotts for instance.

 

[marcinbrighton]

Absolutely, a cut about loom is no problem, solder any joints and and insulate with glue filled heatshrink. You could get the correct connector and a short end of loom from a breakers, Emmotts for instance.

good idea. I need to call them to try to get a lead to connect my headlining loom to the rearview mirror anyway, keep not getting round to it so that's my excuse. Saves me having to solder up under the chassis as well, which will make that a bit easier. In fact, I should just be able to connect into the breaker loom connector from my bodged up flylead, no solder at all

Out of interest, I measured the fixing centers, the outer edge on the non-flylead version are 68.58mm and on the flylead version 69.28mm Hole diameter the same. No idea why this means I can fit the non-flylead on the FL but not on the FR!! The joy of rangies