This is getting silly now.

[doz]

What is it with my Rangie and bearings? I can only think it's spent time paddling along the Cornish flooded lanes (it's not been used for much more than school runs and shopping since 2006) but very short journeys so the bearings all got wet at some point and then stayed wet as there was no long drive to dry them out. So far I've replaced. Aux drive belt bearings on tensioner and guides. Rear hub one side (which was really hanging). Alternator bearing (also hanging). Now I've shut that lot up I can now hear one or both of the front hub bearings is groaning and thrumping away. Pee'd off Right so I've got to do the front bearings. I've been reading around and most people say they are a complete arse. I understand the hubs get pretty well stuck in the swivels. Also the bearings are so tight in the hubs A major press is required. I have a 12 ton press but from the sounds of it that won't be man enough. So new hubs it is. Hints and tips please guys. Most of the time just my wife and little girl use the Rangie for Horse box towing so I've got to get it right. Don't need to be trying to recover the motor and have an irate pony to deal with to.

 

[wammers]

New hubs bring their own problems. You would need to adjust the centralisation of the drive shaft relative to the oil seal. This needs a very expensive special tool. Unless you can borrow one you would struggle. If you just remove the hub and fit a new bearing without moving the adjustable collars, this is not needed in most cases.

 

[doz]

Oh right. I've had a read on Rave and it doesn't mention this. Are we talking about the same thing? I may have got the names muddled up. In a normal car this would be called a wheel bearing

 

[wammers]

Oh right. I've had a read on Rave and it doesn't mention this. Are we talking about the same thing? I may have got the names muddled up. In a normal car this would be called a wheel bearing

You have to remove the hub to change the wheel bearing. Look under front suspension in RAVE. You will see what i mean.

 

[Grit Valve]

New hubs bring their own problems. You would need to adjust the centralisation of the drive shaft relative to the oil seal. This needs a very expensive special tool. Unless you can borrow one you would struggle. If you just remove the hub and fit a new bearing without moving the adjustable collars, this is not needed in most cases.

The hubs are always symetrical, the hub comes away from its ajustible swivle housing

It's the swivle bottom ball joint collet that ajusts swivle housing up or down not the hub .the hub position its dictated via swivle housing locating holes and has no ajustment.

 

[wammers]

The hubs are always symetrical, the hub comes away from its ajustible swivle housing

It's the swivle bottom ball joint collet that ajusts swivle housing up or down not the hub .the hub position its dictated via swivle housing locating holes and has no ajustment.

Yes correct, i was thinking complete unit for some stupid reason.

 

[Grit Valve]

Yes correct, i was thinking complete unit for some stupid reason.

Not as bad as my front hub / diff seal

 

[wammers]

Not as bad as my front hub / diff seal

Got mind on other things. Started out as simple injection pump change. Then big oil leak from head (Feed to camshaft) so head off. Then found gross toothache in cam chain, all links worn but one about 2 mm play. Lucky enough it was at top on TDC and easy to spot. So front cover off. Then thought may as well change engine oil cooler pipes, they are weeping. Of course they are welded to cooler so new cooler on it's way. Week before removed dash and heater/aircon unit stripped and freed off vents and quadrant fitted new blends. Fitted new condenser which had to come out again. Was a nice day when i started so thought changing pump would take a few hours, so didn't put car in garage. Now i am working between the weather. Having a rest today though.

 

[Grit Valve]

Got mind on other things. Started out as simple injection pump change. Then big oil leak from head (Feed to camshaft) so head off. Then found gross toothache in cam chain, all links worn but one about 2 mm play. Lucky enough it was at top on TDC and easy to spot. So front cover off. Then thought may as well change engine oil cooler pipes, they are weeping. Of course they are welded to cooler so new cooler on it's way. Week before removed dash and heater/aircon unit stripped and freed off vents and quadrant fitted new blends. Fitted new condenser which had to come out again. Was a nice day when i started so thought changing pump would take a few hours, so didn't put car in garage. Now i am working between the weather. Having a rest today though.

Hope get it all sorted typical set out to do one thing then being experienced like yourself you find a hole heap of other stuff.

 

[wammers]

Hope get it all sorted typical set out to do one thing then being experienced like yourself you find a hole heap of other stuff.

Things you just can't leave undone. If i wring out the under tray sound pad think i could fill a bloody bucket. That was just a leak from the vacuum pump seal. It'll get done, quite enjoying it really. Apart from when it's cold and wet out.

 

[doz]

Cheers guys. You had me worried for a bit but if I don't have to worry about alignment I'll crack on and order some hubs

 

[wammers]

Cheers guys. You had me worried for a bit but if I don't have to worry about alignment I'll crack on and order some hubs

Yeah sorry Doz off on a tangent for some reason.