EAS issues return

[Grrrrrr]

OK. Story so far for 95 DT.

EAS leak issues. Compressor burns out. Fixed compressor. Leak seems to be leaky valve-block.

Thought valve block was fixed but wasn't. Compressor burns out again. Try to fix both again. Complicated by intermittant leaks from emergency inflation kits. As far as I can tell there are no leaks between lines and airbags though.

Compressor fixed, car left on extended ride-height and relay removed for testing.

Rear left corner drops. Arse. Finally throw in the towel and order a brand spanking new valve-block (ouch) and air-dryer, seeing as I'm spending enough already.

Today I fit the new valve-block. BLOODY COMPRESSOR WON'T START! It was working for the leak test. Pumped all the way to extended ride-height and then hasn't been used for a week since. Nanocom says it is on. Everything seems to infer it is on. Yet no vibration from it and cannot hear anything. Have volts between green and black wire so it has power. How the chuff can it stop working when it hasn't even been used?

Any ideas what might cause the Nanocom to think the compressor is running but it is in fact not running? Thermal switch shows as NORMAL. Pressure switch is OPEN.

Any ideas appreciated. I'm losing the will to live on this. Will have another play this evening when I finish work.

Cheers,

J

 

[Datatek]

If it was just one corner gone down, unless you cocked something up, the leak is likely to be somewhere other than the valve block.
I could do you an exchange re-con valve block for £50 plus P&P, others have spare blocks that they may lend out for test purposes.

 

[Grit Valve]

Hot wire the compressor yourself don't forget the pressure switch too .and get rid of self inflation leak extraordinary !

 

[wammers]

There have been a couple of threads lately where i have explained where valve blocks leak to drop a corner. Rectification costs pennies and a little bit of work. Buying a new valve block for daft money when all you get is three blocks of alloy and things you can replace for a few quid or easily repair is silly.

 

[Grit Valve]

There have been a couple of threads lately where i have explained where valve blocks leak to drop a corner. Rectification costs pennies and a little bit of work. Buying a new valve block for daft money when all you get is three blocks of alloy and things you can replace for a few quid or easily repair is silly.

Now now maybe overhauling a block can give some folk shivers

 

[wammers]

Now now maybe overhauling a block can give some folk shivers

I know what would give me shivers £600.00 for new block or £30.00 for bits and a little bit of learning time and work to fit them. Guess which one it is?

 

[Grrrrrr]

It did send shivers and it hurt. After a certain amount of time though it is cheaper to spend money than waste my time when I could be out earning money. If it doesn't cure it I'll send it back. However, I cannot even test it now. I swear the car is jinxed.

Been through the valve block and thought I'd done just about everything. I mean, there aren't that many o-rings in there and I've replaced the lot. However, I've had it apart, what, 10 times in the past 6 weeks and I'm completely fed up with it. Moreover, it is becoming an obsession and I have other things to do other than repair compressors and try to retrace my steps over and over.

Tried inflating direct to bag. That kind of worked when the effin connector didn't leak. When the connector didn't leak (soapy water test) the bags all stayed up ad-infinitum. So, must be OK from end of line to the bag ... unless that's a bloody intermittant leak in the bag too and some sort of pinhole that sometimes opens up and sometimes doesn't. Possible. Bags are 4 months old though and were OK up until 6 weeks ago when this saga started.

Pressure switch: oddly enough I had to pull the old 2 wires from the connector and push the new ones into the connector. Checked connector and the pins are where I left them so assume they're engaging OK. Nancom says pressure switch OPEN. Is that right? From memory I think it is.

I think Wammers has a test between the orange wire and the black wire or somesuch. I'll reread his guide and check if the thermal switch is playing ball (Nanocom says Normal). Might be worth swapping a relay over too, just in case.

J

 

[Grrrrrr]

It was the compressor. Took it apart. Had voltage at the brushes. On putting it back together noticed it was turning like a bag of bolts. Reassembled, refitted and then gave it a tap with my brummie spanner. Kept tapping it everytime it stopped. Car eventually started to go up and then there was a whoosh like a blowout from the rear left and the car hit the bump-stops.

So, for better or worse that rear corner appears to have gone critical. Couldn't see anything with my torch but it'll have to come out again. Oh, and I think the compressor has probably been repaired one time too many.

I hope my flexible friend is feeling really flexible!

J