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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Sep
29
Following a failure of the in tank pump in my 2003 L322 4.4 V8 Vogue, it was mentioned a BMW X5 pump from the 2000-2007 MY, will be a direct replacement to the small pump fitted inside the Fuel Pump/Sender unit....

Having done this today myself, I took loads of pictures and have pulled together a brief photo-journal of process.

Took about 4 hours, taking my time and loads of pictures....so probably could be don in 2.5 hours if not less!!

LR Dealer will charge you £435+VAT (Sept 2012) for a new pump/sender unit, Island 4x4 list at £333+VAT (Sept 2012) for same.

Picked up the X5 pump from GSFcarparts for £169.20 (Sept 2012) for OEM Bosch unit!

Consider the LR Dealer prices - 4 hours labour and the pump, close to £800-900, do it yourself with an X5 pump and save a bucket load of cash!!

A FEW POINTS TO NOTE

The most crucial thing when using the fuel system is to take every precaution you can –

• Fire Extinguisher (Foam, CO2, Halon – NOT WATER)
• Always work in a well ventilated area – don’t do it in your garage
• Don’t work over a pit – fuel vapour is heavy and will sink into it
• Have someone around who knows what you are doing
• Tape of the work area to prevent anyone getting to close who may be smoking or have some form of ignition on them!
• Disconnect the battery and allow 20 minutes for the systems to discharge
• Get yourself the RAVE manuals they are full of useful information and detail all the work procedures.
• Wear gloves – petrol strips the skin of its essential oils
• Mask would be a good idea (I didn’t but better safe then sorry)
• Safety Specs – during part of the procedure if you are leaning over the pump when trying to remove it, the fuel feed connection spits fuel at you!!
• Think about the task at hand and ensure you have all the tools available to you – you...
Sep
07
I haven't cleaned the MAP sensor on my defender for a little while so I thought that it was about time I gave it a spring clean before my holiday. Unfortunately I didn't think about taking any pics until after I've cleaned the MAP so can't show you how gunky it actually was.

First off you need to remove the three 13mm bolts holding the plastic engine cover on.

There is one on the offside (drivers side) of the vehicle....

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and 2 on the nearside (passenger side).


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We can now see the MAP sensor situated alongside the dipstick

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Next we need to undo the two 8mm bolts holding the MAP in place. You will need to use a spanner as the bolt nearest the front of the engine doesn't have enough room to get a socket and ratchet on

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Gently wiggle the sensor from side to side while pulling and it should ease out. You will then need to unclip the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab at the wire end of the plug.

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You will then be left with this.....

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Using Carb cleaner or similar, repeatedly spray and then wipe off until the sensor is clean as in the above pics.

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Re-fitting is simply the reverse of the above.
Aug
29
2004 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure – English.

Publication LRML1930/03 – Date: February 2004

This brochure was produced when the Freelander 1 was “face lifted” with colour coded bumpers.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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Aug
16
Right folks, I’ve just had a w’end doing this for the first time and made a few mistakes but got there in the end, so, I thought I would put together a help guide to any of you also facing this for the first time.

I have included as many pic’s as I can, and there may well be things that the more experienced out there would suggest as not done the best way, but that’s fine.
This is purely from a non- experienced account, for other novices to get their teeth into.

To start with:
I would suggest that you start inside the cab of your 90 or 110 by removing the middle seat or cubby box.
Then remove your gear stick nobs, gaiter and foam insert.
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If you are lucky enough to have the sound proofing and/ or carpet covers. Remove these also.
Your gaiter is fixed onto the gear system housing which in turn you can see is held by a series of screws and you may also have to remove the floor panels if, like mine, they have been fixed down on top of this housings lower rim.
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Now that all this is apart you will clearly see the linkages, the front prop shaft joining the transfer box and also back towards the rear prop shaft, handbrake drum and linkages etc so you can get to everything at all angles which is very useful so worth the time to get there.

Now it’s time to remove the linkages to free the transfer box from gear box.
My finger is pointing at the linkages to which I refer.
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Now, I made the mistake of taking apart these linkages at the very top where I am pointing but you DON’T need to do this.

Both of these linkages connect to the transfer box at the lower end.
The following picture shows the lower end of the outer linkage disconnected as well as the mistake of upper end disconnected. The lower end is the 10mm nut you see in...
Aug
12
2001 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure – English.

Publication LRML1566/01

This brochure was produced when the V6 and Td4 options were first offered for sale.
The 2001 model year started late 2000.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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[​IMG][​IMG]...
May
12
After reading alot on here and other forums I decided to do this tutorial as this really isnt as bad as people think .. yes there's alot to do but its all simple stuff .... I've even taken pictures :p

... on a few pics there are no screws in the holes as I had already taken them out before taking the picture :rolleyes:

Hope it helps!

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Remove 2 screws located on the sides by the gearstick ... its a torx but a alen or flat head will fit ok :)

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between the gearstick and the handbrake there is a little cover, pop it off and you will find 2 screws (The ends will be rusty as these stick out uner the car ...good idea LR!)

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Open the handbrake cubby box and undo the four screws and remove this.

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There are another 2 screws to undo (right side of pic holding the surround on)

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Disconnect the plugs for the switches (mine were rear window & sunroof)

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Now drop the Handbrake slightly and slide the surround off.

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now unclip the gear surround... lift the opposit end to the HDC button and then it just unclips off.

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Disconnect the HDC and unscrew the gearknob.

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With a flathead under the bottom front and lift up and foward ... litrally pops off.

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Undo the 2 screws.

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Now the control surround will come free an inch or so....
May
08
I was sent this PDF by a very nice chap from germany that wanted to share his findings but isn't a member of the forum.

Thanks Ansgar i'm sure it will help a lot of people out!
May
08
I was sent this PDF by a very nice chap from germany that wanted to share his findings but isn't a member of the forum.

Thanks Ansgar i'm sure it will help a lot of people out!
May
03
Hi, my 2004 Discovery blows the fuse on the central locking everytime I unlock the doors, I replase the fuse but it does it again . any ideas
Apr
27
Hi all bought a d2 with a knackered engine I want to do away with td5 as there a pain to work on, with too much to go wrong, does anyone know how to do this conversion? I've seen someone say you can just put a 300tdi bell housing on the td5 gearbox? The disco also has "ACE" does anyone know what happens if you disconnect this? I think the wiring is going to be a nightmare though, for MOT reasons id like to know how to sort all the dash lights out if I rip all the sensors out, short of taking the dash out and removing the lights!

Any advice would be appreciated.

Adam