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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

So a follow on to my previous thread...


Local Autofactors had the pump on the shelf for £68 odd +VAT, so after dropping the Girlfriend off at work, I went to pick it up.

Also picked up another 5 litres of Coolant concentrate.

Got home, and got started...

First things is to place the bonnet in Service Mode, and remove the Viscous Fan and Shroud...see my Radiator How To for how this is achieved.

Next is to loosen the pulley bolts as this is easier with belt tension to hold the pulley

Loosen the Belt Tensioner locking bolts (2 of them) to relieve the tension on the belt

Slip the belt off

Unclip the pipes to the Alternator and the top of the Water Pump...these have little spring clips on, so lever the clip up and pull the hose off!

Next is to remove the Secondary Air Injection pipe work from in front of the pump, this is a bit of a fiddle as the L/H bank (R/H as facing engine) is hidden under the rocker cover and has to be done by feel....I remove the wrong bolt at first and was about 2” long....this is the wrong bolt, the correct one is...
First things first....

Tools required:
8mm Allen key for Sump and Fill/Level plugs
T27 Torx bit for Sump bolts and Filter Bolts
Stanley Blade/Gasket Scrapper/Wide Screwdriver
Plenty of Rags
Drip Tray
Receptacle for Oil
Method of refilling (I used a pressure sprayer attached to a length of flexible hose)
Degreaser/cleaning products

Always use the correct grade of ATF for the L322 Gearboxes – considering the price of this stuff, shopping around helps.
I bought 7 litres from a local VW/Audi place as theirs was the cheapest I could get hold of in the time I had....£11.70 a litre with the VAT. LR was £14 odd plus the VAT so was about £16-17 ish a litre...
VW part number G-052-162-A2

Raise Vehicle – Now before everyone goes bandy, I know driving up 4 ramps is a no-no, but I needed access underneath for a larger than average person and also have the vehicle level to drain and refill the box.

Climb underneath and laugh at the ‘Filled for Life’ sticker.. :D

On first inspection underneath, it looks like there has been a fluid leak from the front corner of the sump




OK, now before you do anything there are couple of Must Do steps

Spray some penetrating fluid on to the sump bolts, drain and fill plugs

Make sure you have a viable and working method of refilling the box, I used a cheap pressure Fence Sprayer from Homebase (£14.99) and took the little plastic filter off the end of the delivery tube, cut the yellow plastic tube shorter and attached some flexible hose to that so I could feed it into the fill hole....
Following the discovery of a tiny hole and leak in the front face of the Radiator and losing about a litre of coolant every 10 days or so. I decided it was time the change the Radiator.

Island4x4 where the cheapest option with the best delivery deal (£163.99 delivered and VAT – Nov 2012) – no affiliation just a satisfied customer....Delivered within 2 days (Ordered on a Friday evening – delivered first thing Tuesday), the unit is a genuine Hella/BEHR OEM radiator and came very well packaged.

In order to remove the rad easily it is best to remove the Viscous Fan and Shroud, there are reports of being able to do it without removing them, but space is limited, and the last thing I wanted was to bounce the rad off the fan or shroud while sliding it back in again!

The VC Fan can be undone with a sharp tap on the spanner, but I have never really had much luck doing that, plus my VC Spanner is quite short and there wasn’t much spanner to hit......not having the correct tool to hold the pulley, I decided to fabricate one. I used a length of 1” flat bar about 3mm thick and 4 M12 Half Nuts, the assembly is below:




So on to the job:

Make sure you have everything to hand:
· Gloves
· Pulley Spanner
· 32mm VC Fan Spanner...
Hello all,

just thought id share some info on my recent work done to my TD6 L322.

as some may know, the td4 engine (fitted to the freelander) and TD6 engine as fitted to the L322 often suffer from blocked PCV / crankcase breather filters... mostly often due to poor service and maintenance. and because the filter change was never really noted down on the service procedure list !!

so they very rarely get changed ! and once clogged up they will quickly kill your turbo...

early signs are excessive black smoke / soot from the exhausts and pressure within the oil system. ie if you remove your oil dipstick with the engine running and oil squirts out, the chances are your breather filter is blocked.

anyhow, i have done this mod to my old freelander with the TD4 engine as was experiencing the early signs of the blockage. since owning the l322 i had wondered if they also had the same problem.....

well they do. infact the td4 and td6 are pretty much identical engines par the 2 extra cylinders on the td6. so most of the parts are interchangeable :D:D:D

so as there doesnt seem to be any info regarding the L322 upgrade i thought id write a page to help any other TD6 owners :)

basically BMW has introduced a crankcase filter upgrade... basically replaces the cotton type filter with a plastic cyclone type filter.

the new type filter is maintenance free, so never needs changing, unlike the crappy cotton type that gets blocked over time.

the upgrade is very easy to do and shouldn't take more that 20 mins to complete.

good luck ;)

first things first. remove the engine cover's to gain access to the crankcase breather unit that is located in the far, back left hand side of the engine as pictured. (next to the air intake filter)


What the Fuel Burning Heater (FBH) does (Courtesy of Rhodie)
The M47 diesel engine is so efficient, that it produces very little waste heat to warm the coolant up to a reasonable temperature within a reasonable distance. The issue is often made worse by a coolant thermostat, which as it ages opens too early, so winter or summer, the engine never achieves its designed working temperature. There is no point installing an FBH unless your stat is working properly at is design opening temperature of 88C.

The FBH is configured to shut off at 77C and if your stat opens at below this temperature, then it will continue to run indefinitely in cold weather, wasting its warmth to atmosphere via the radiator.

Check your car's normal running temperature via the OBD dash diagnostics for an accurate temperature and if once warmed up it is much below 88C, either install a replacement OEM stat (expensive) or the cheap option of a second stat in the top hose (cheap fix). A problem with the stat, needs to be addressed early, rather than waste fuel running the FBH unnecessarily.
Then undo more of the 5x Torx bolts visible behind where you have removed the pump from, to separate the first section of casing, be careful not to bend the metal fuel pipe as you pull that first section away - ease it through the rubber bung.

Water pump removed and you can just see the exhaust flue pipe stub sticking out on the left. Black plastic cover on the right hides the combustion air fan.
That should then reveal 4x more Torx bolts holding the burner unit into the heat exchanger. Undo those, but be aware there is a soft thick paper gasket between the two, which is bound to have split in one place - take care not to make it any worse.

Brass coloured object, with the dog-legged pipe emerging from it is the burner unit. Dog-legged pipe is the fuel pipe.
Inside the heat exchanger, from where the burner has just been removed. Surrounding the hole you can see the pale green paper...

You climb in your prized P38 and try to start the engine. The engine cranks but doesn’t fire. There are no error messages and all seems to be working as it should. You pull the engine apart checking fuses, air, fuel, the lot but still nothing appears wrong. Chances are your engine management system (EMS) has gone out of synch with the Body Electrical Control Module (BECM).

What is it?

On the diesel there is a static code in the engine management system. When you try to start this code is checked against the code held in the BECM. If the two don’t match then the engine will crank but not start (note: the petrol models have rolling codes and probably won’t crank.) The only way to resynchronise the 2 is using a bespoke piece of kit, one of which is the Nanocom Evolution from Black-box Solutions (no affiliation). Other devices are available, not least the Synchmate also by BBS but I’ve not tried that.

How to fix it: step-by-step guide.

1) Open up the passenger door of your P38 diesel and look under the right-hand-side of the glove box, close to the centre console. There should be a white ODBII-type plug socket.



2) Put the key in the ignition and turn until the lights appear on the dash but do not try to crank.
3) Plug in your Nanocom Evolution. After a few moments the screen should light up.
4) With a blunt tool (such as a broken pencil) or finger select “R-Rover P38” on the Nanocom.


5) On the next screen select “EDC”.


6) On the next screen select “EDC”, again.


7) On the next screen select “Settings”.


8) At the bottom of the screen it should say EMS code. Make a note of this as you’ll need it in a minute. Press the red cross in the bottom-right-hand corner of the screen twice to come out of the screen and back to the EDC menu screen....
Following a failure of the in tank pump in my 2003 L322 4.4 V8 Vogue, it was mentioned a BMW X5 pump from the 2000-2007 MY, will be a direct replacement to the small pump fitted inside the Fuel Pump/Sender unit....

Having done this today myself, I took loads of pictures and have pulled together a brief photo-journal of process.

Took about 4 hours, taking my time and loads of pictures....so probably could be don in 2.5 hours if not less!!

LR Dealer will charge you £435+VAT (Sept 2012) for a new pump/sender unit, Island 4x4 list at £333+VAT (Sept 2012) for same.

Picked up the X5 pump from GSFcarparts for £169.20 (Sept 2012) for OEM Bosch unit!

Consider the LR Dealer prices - 4 hours labour and the pump, close to £800-900, do it yourself with an X5 pump and save a bucket load of cash!!


The most crucial thing when using the fuel system is to take every precaution you can –

• Fire Extinguisher (Foam, CO2, Halon – NOT WATER)
• Always work in a well ventilated area – don’t do it in your garage
• Don’t work over a pit – fuel vapour is heavy and will sink into it
• Have someone around who knows what you are doing
• Tape of the work area to prevent anyone getting to close who may be smoking or have some form of ignition on them!
• Disconnect the battery and allow 20 minutes for the systems to discharge
• Get yourself the RAVE manuals they are full of useful information and detail all the work procedures.
• Wear gloves – petrol strips the skin of its essential oils
• Mask would be a good idea (I didn’t but better safe then sorry)
• Safety Specs – during part of the procedure if you are leaning over the pump when trying to remove it, the fuel feed connection spits fuel at you!!
• Think about the task at hand and ensure you have all the tools available to you – you...
I haven't cleaned the MAP sensor on my defender for a little while so I thought that it was about time I gave it a spring clean before my holiday. Unfortunately I didn't think about taking any pics until after I've cleaned the MAP so can't show you how gunky it actually was.

First off you need to remove the three 13mm bolts holding the plastic engine cover on.

There is one on the offside (drivers side) of the vehicle....


and 2 on the nearside (passenger side).


We can now see the MAP sensor situated alongside the dipstick


Next we need to undo the two 8mm bolts holding the MAP in place. You will need to use a spanner as the bolt nearest the front of the engine doesn't have enough room to get a socket and ratchet on


Gently wiggle the sensor from side to side while pulling and it should ease out. You will then need to unclip the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab at the wire end of the plug.


You will then be left with this.....



Using Carb cleaner or similar, repeatedly spray and then wipe off until the sensor is clean as in the above pics.


Re-fitting is simply the reverse of the above.
EDIT: Pictures are no longer available due to photo bucket being nasty.

Catalogues will appear again soon when I get them fixed.

2004 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure – English.

Publication LRML1930/03 – Date: February 2004

This brochure was produced when the Freelander 1 was “face lifted” with colour coded bumpers.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.
Right folks, I’ve just had a w’end doing this for the first time and made a few mistakes but got there in the end, so, I thought I would put together a help guide to any of you also facing this for the first time.

I have included as many pic’s as I can, and there may well be things that the more experienced out there would suggest as not done the best way, but that’s fine.
This is purely from a non- experienced account, for other novices to get their teeth into.

To start with:
I would suggest that you start inside the cab of your 90 or 110 by removing the middle seat or cubby box.
Then remove your gear stick nobs, gaiter and foam insert.

If you are lucky enough to have the sound proofing and/ or carpet covers. Remove these also.
Your gaiter is fixed onto the gear system housing which in turn you can see is held by a series of screws and you may also have to remove the floor panels if, like mine, they have been fixed down on top of this housings lower rim.

Now that all this is apart you will clearly see the linkages, the front prop shaft joining the transfer box and also back towards the rear prop shaft, handbrake drum and linkages etc so you can get to everything at all angles which is very useful so worth the time to get there.

Now it’s time to remove the linkages to free the transfer box from gear box.
My finger is pointing at the linkages to which I refer.

Now, I made the mistake of taking apart these linkages at the very top where I am pointing but you DON’T need to do this.

Both of these linkages connect to the transfer box at the lower end.
The following picture shows the lower end of the outer linkage disconnected as well as the mistake of upper end disconnected. The lower end is the 10mm nut you see in bottom of pic. Undo this...