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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Aug
29
2004 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure – English.

Publication LRML1930/03 – Date: February 2004

This brochure was produced when the Freelander 1 was “face lifted” with colour coded bumpers.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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Aug
16
Right folks, I’ve just had a w’end doing this for the first time and made a few mistakes but got there in the end, so, I thought I would put together a help guide to any of you also facing this for the first time.

I have included as many pic’s as I can, and there may well be things that the more experienced out there would suggest as not done the best way, but that’s fine.
This is purely from a non- experienced account, for other novices to get their teeth into.

To start with:
I would suggest that you start inside the cab of your 90 or 110 by removing the middle seat or cubby box.
Then remove your gear stick nobs, gaiter and foam insert.
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If you are lucky enough to have the sound proofing and/ or carpet covers. Remove these also.
Your gaiter is fixed onto the gear system housing which in turn you can see is held by a series of screws and you may also have to remove the floor panels if, like mine, they have been fixed down on top of this housings lower rim.
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Now that all this is apart you will clearly see the linkages, the front prop shaft joining the transfer box and also back towards the rear prop shaft, handbrake drum and linkages etc so you can get to everything at all angles which is very useful so worth the time to get there.

Now it’s time to remove the linkages to free the transfer box from gear box.
My finger is pointing at the linkages to which I refer.
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Now, I made the mistake of taking apart these linkages at the very top where I am pointing but you DON’T need to do this.

Both of these linkages connect to the transfer box at the lower end.
The following picture shows the lower end of the outer linkage disconnected as well as the mistake of upper end disconnected. The lower end is the 10mm nut you see in...
Aug
12
2001 Freelander 1 Sales Brochure – English.

Publication LRML1566/01

This brochure was produced when the V6 and Td4 options were first offered for sale.
The 2001 model year started late 2000.

Loads of people ask about the specification so here it is.
Pictures are large so you can read the text.
Zoom out in your web browser to see the full pictures.


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May
12
After reading alot on here and other forums I decided to do this tutorial as this really isnt as bad as people think .. yes there's alot to do but its all simple stuff .... I've even taken pictures :p

... on a few pics there are no screws in the holes as I had already taken them out before taking the picture :rolleyes:

Hope it helps!

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Remove 2 screws located on the sides by the gearstick ... its a torx but a alen or flat head will fit ok :)

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between the gearstick and the handbrake there is a little cover, pop it off and you will find 2 screws (The ends will be rusty as these stick out uner the car ...good idea LR!)

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Open the handbrake cubby box and undo the four screws and remove this.

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There are another 2 screws to undo (right side of pic holding the surround on)

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Disconnect the plugs for the switches (mine were rear window & sunroof)

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Now drop the Handbrake slightly and slide the surround off.

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now unclip the gear surround... lift the opposit end to the HDC button and then it just unclips off.

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Disconnect the HDC and unscrew the gearknob.

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With a flathead under the bottom front and lift up and foward ... litrally pops off.

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Undo the 2 screws.

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Now the control surround will come free an inch or so....
May
08
I was sent this PDF by a very nice chap from germany that wanted to share his findings but isn't a member of the forum.

Thanks Ansgar i'm sure it will help a lot of people out!
May
08
I was sent this PDF by a very nice chap from germany that wanted to share his findings but isn't a member of the forum.

Thanks Ansgar i'm sure it will help a lot of people out!
May
03
Hi, my 2004 Discovery blows the fuse on the central locking everytime I unlock the doors, I replase the fuse but it does it again . any ideas
Apr
27
Hi all bought a d2 with a knackered engine I want to do away with td5 as there a pain to work on, with too much to go wrong, does anyone know how to do this conversion? I've seen someone say you can just put a 300tdi bell housing on the td5 gearbox? The disco also has "ACE" does anyone know what happens if you disconnect this? I think the wiring is going to be a nightmare though, for MOT reasons id like to know how to sort all the dash lights out if I rip all the sensors out, short of taking the dash out and removing the lights!

Any advice would be appreciated.

Adam
Mar
29
Remove fuel feed pipe from filter place in suitable measuring vessel. With ignition OFF remove fuel pump relay (relay12). Take wire from positive side of battery and power number 5 contact on relay socket for ten seconds, in this time a minimum of 180Ml of fuel should be pumped. Number 5 is the connection which is contrary to the other three.
Mar
16
What is the Proper Torque to Use on a Given Bolt

"What torque should I use to tighten my bolts?" is a question suppliers of bolts are frequently asked by end user customers. Many times I have been asked if a chart is published on the recommended tightening torque for various bolt grades and sizes. I do not know of any. This article provides such a chart for "Initial Target Tightening Torque. It See Figure 1. The formula for generating these values is explained below.

The widely recognized engineering formula, T= K x D x P (to be explained later in this article), was used to provide the chart's values, but it must be understood that every bolted joint is unique and the optimum tightening torque should be determined for each application by careful experimentation. A properly tightened bolt is one that is stretched such that it acts like a very ridged spring pulling mating surfaces together. The rotation of a bolt (torque) at some point causes it to stretch (tension). Several factors affect how much tension occurs when a given amount of tightening torque is applied. The first factor is the bolt's diameter. It takes more force to tighten a 3/4-10 bolt than to tighten a 318-16 bolt because it is larger in diameter. The second factor is the bolt's grade. It takes more force to stretch an SAE Grade 8 bolt than it does to stretch an SAE Grade 5 bolt because of the greater material strength. The third factor is the coefficient of friction, frequently referred to as the "nut factor." The value of this factor indicates that harder, smoother, and/or slicker bolting surfaces, such as threads and bearing surfaces, require less rotational force (torque) to stretch (tension) a bolt than do softer, rougher, and stickier surfaces. The basic formula T = K x D x P stated
earlier takes these factors into account...