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LandyZone - Land Rover Forum

 
Nov
23
Look here for all your BeCM problems



Demystifying the BeCM
Nov
22
Adjusting the wheel bearings is the same from the early series to the 300TDi Discovery. The twin taper roller bearing arrangement was and still is a popular arrangement. Vehicle is a 1981 SWB S3.
This is a very easy job, and doesn't even require removal of the road wheel. You do however need to jack the wheel clear of the ground in order to check any play in the bearing. In order to ascertain if you need to do replace the bearing or adjust it - then grip the wheel at the 3 and 9 o-clock position, and try to rock the wheel. If there is some movement - then spin the wheel. If the wheel spins smoothly, then it's pretty safe to say that the bearing only needs adjusting. If there is an audible rumbling, and/or a roughness, then the bearing will have to be replaced.
Front and rear bearings are the same, but on the front, you need to seperate the drive flange from the driveshaft - the CV joint (or U/J on series), prevents you from withdrawing the front driveshaft. On the rear, the flange and driveshaft can be removed as one.

Before jacking the wheel clear of the ground - slacken the 6 drive flange bolts.

(pic 1)


Jack the road wheel clear of the ground, remove the hub cap - steel on series, and a wierd type of rigid rubber on later vehicles.

(pic 2)

Series vehicles have a nut and split pin holding the driveshaft in the flange - defenders and disco's have a circlip and shims.

Remove it, plus the 6 flange bolts.

(pic 3)


If the flange is stuck, and they usually are, use this method (or similar), to break the seal.

(pic 4)

Once removed - the two nuts, and lockwasher can be seen.

(pic 5)

Tap a screwdriver, blunt chisel, or similar tool between the lockwasher and outer nut face.

(pic 6)

The outer nut can now be undone using the correct box spanner or 52mm/1 1/16" socket.
Once the outer nut is removed - remove also the tab washer.

(pic 7)

You should now be looking at this:-

(pic 8)

Using the same socket - tighten the nut and spin the wheel....
Nov
21
Relay Basics: [​IMG]A relay is used to isolate one electrical circuit from another. It allows a low current control circuit to make or break an electrically isolated high current circuit path. One example where a relay is useful in car audio is in the power antenna or remote output of a head unit. We already said that the average remote lead can only handle about one half of an amp of current. If a circuit with a large amount of current must be controlled by the remote output lead of a head unit, a relay could be used to buffer the remote output from the head unit. The basic relay consists of a coil and a set of contacts. The most common relay coil is a length of magnet wire wrapped around a metal core. When voltage is applied to the coil, current passes through the wire and creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field pulls the contacts together and holds them there until the current flow in the coil has stopped. The diagram below shows the parts of a simple relay.
[​IMG]
Relay Demo: Drag your mouse over the picture below. You'll see how the relay closes to allow current to flow through the bottom lamp when the coil is connected to the power source. You can see how current flows through either set of contacts depending on the position of the movable contact. If you have a slow connection, you may have to hold your mouse over the image until it loads completely. Since this page has a LOT of graphics, this will work best if you let the page load completely before using this demo. Clicking on the picture will bring the image to the top of the frame. [​IMG]
The table below shows just a fraction of the available relay configurations....
Nov
05
I know this is nothing new but I am going to fit the egr blanking plate to my Td5 so I can get one from e bay for under a tenner, but Td5 Alive sell them with another pipe fitting but they are £50 is there any difference, and if I use the e bay gear what happens to the pipework with the valve in it? Does everybody fit anything other than the blanking plate? I am a bit confused.:)
Nov
01
Hi All. Need to take out Alpine stereo unit any suggestions, need to replace with another stereo:confused:
Oct
24
HI, new boy here ,please be gentle.
I have the LR A frame /Bull bar for my 1.8 2000 Freelander, however I need the upper mounting brackets.LR don't sell these seperatly..
Q. Does anyone know where I can get these/anybody have spares?
Q. Anyone have the fitting instructions ?
Q. Do you have to put holes through the plastic bumper for these upper brackts ?
Any help welcome.
Thanks.
Oct
22
hi,
Ihave been told i need to remove the steering wheel to get at the horn switch which also has different types so i need to see it before the i
start the search at the scrappys , problem airbags srs type, do you have to disconnect the battery if so for how long , ihave allready picked up on the dont remove the lock nut all the way to save a bust nose when removing steering wheel but havent a clue about the airbag removal .
help
Eric
Oct
19
[​IMG] Range Rover seats in a Defender
Just got mesel' a set of rear range rover back seats for the bus (Def 110):D
What ah'd like to know is, how do ah go about securing them? The bottom looks as if it might be straight forward, but what about the top/side mount? Can probably get the striker/ securing bracket things if needs be.
Cheers;) :D
Oct
13
Evening,
I currently have about a 0.25A drain on my battery which flattens it in around 5 days.
I have isolated the fault down to FS6 on satellite fuse box 2 which supplies all internal lights thru the Multi function unit and F12 on the main fuses block for the ignition key light. By removing both of these the drain drops to 30mA
The ground is supplied via the multi function unit for the interior lights. I first thought I had a problem with this unit but I've changed it and the fault still exists.
Could the fault be caused by the alarm connection which comes in on plug/pin B/24/4


Griff1

PS I'm using Haynes manual wiring diagrams,
Is this a bad idea ?
Oct
12
With thanks to Clutchdust....
Here we go, a full step by step guide with piccys.

The pics are of a range rover but apart from 2 extra cylinders and the engine fitted the correct way round in the car, the Td6 is identical to the Td4 and the procedure is the same..................

Please note that this will wreck the injector but usually, if you're doing this, you'll be replacing it anyway.

1. with a dot punch and a hammer, tap the nut round on the top of the injector and take the top off (I'm pointing to the nut that needs to be knocked round)
[​IMG]

2. you should end up with this........
[​IMG]

3. Put the top of the injector in a vice upside down and drill an 8mm hole all the way through, then open up the first part of the hole to 13mm, don't go all the way through but only go in about 10mm or so.

4. Using a 13mm nut (8mm thread) and bolt, pull the nut into the top of the injector till it stops, you should have something like this...........
[​IMG]

5. now find a piece of 8mm threaded bar, nuts and a suitable weight to make a slide hammer...........
[​IMG]

6. Screw the bar into the top of the injector and screw the top back onto the injector, like so.........
[​IMG]

7. Work the slide hammer as hard as you can till the injector comes out, if it doesn't, find a heavier wieght and try again. Don't bother with WD40 as there is a seal half way down and the WD40 won't get to the part thats seized.
[​IMG]

8. The reason it's seized is because of this crap build up...............