1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

LandyZone - Land Rover Forum


As many of you know we had a fundraiser in memory of a well loved LZ member Freddy007 at the LZ11 gathering and via a justgiving link here on the forum.

Last week we had news from justgiving and today 20/6 being Freddys birthday it seems appropriate to announce....
If you can read this you have made it to the new system. We've been working on this for some time now, but I'm sure there will be problems and things not quite working right.
The picture gallery is still being imported, it will eventually be here!

We are now running xenForo software, which is a bit more up to date than the 6 year old vBulletin 3.8 software that we previously ran. Some new features you may like, some you may not!

Please reply to this with problems and general comments. Preferably constructive! Somethings have still to be added, some things have still to be programmed. Really we shouldn't have opened up the forum again so soon, but you all pressured us(well @Rosie did) :D

Please bear with us on requests and smileys and stuff, we still have a lot more work to do.
I wanted to add Bluetooth functionality to my p38a Range Rover, but didn't want to replace the entire head unit unless I had to do so. As there seems potential issues with the steering wheel controls and if it has the additional harman/kardon amplifier in the boot/trunk.

Please take this information at face value, I cannot guarantee the accuracy of any of it, nor am I affiliated with any of the companies.

General info:

My research has lead me to understand that there are two main radio options on the 99+ model year p38a's. I believe they are both Alpine units. The difference I know of, is one is a 'premium' system and has a sub and amp in the trunk, while the other doesn't.

In order to get Bluetooth you will need a CD changer capable headunit and steering wheel controls. If you don't, then you'll need to research yourself on what options you have.

My head unit looks like this:


The 'premium' version is likely to say harman/kardon on the door tweeters:

And should have a CD changer in the boot, along with a sub and amp:
Cowasaki's electrical tutorial part 2

If you have not seen part 1 of the tutorial then have a look at it but here is the long promised follow up with specific instructions for tests and checks.....


Using test equipment

Test equipment is only really useful when you know what you are testing. This relates to both how the device should be reacting and what it is actually doing.

Using a device such as a multimeter we are able to measure voltage (v), current (amps/a/i) and resistance (r) or impedance. Using simple equations from part 1 of the tutorial you can calculate power (watts/w) which is important when calculating what rating of wire, fuse or relay to use.

A multimeter will usually just give clues as to problems rather than spell them out so it is important to understand the reasons and how things interact. A low voltage at a bulb doesn't tell you what the fault is but it tells you where to start looking. It could be due to voltage drop because of power connection along the wire, a low battery or poor ground. Using the multimeter and information from the circuit diagram we can see how the bulb interacts with other components and then test resistance and voltage at other locations and work out where the fault lies. A lot of it is experience but hopefully with this tutorial and others I have planned you will be able to fix things without pulling out your hair.
Last year the L322 MOT was almost a bust due to a very ineffective handbrake&#8230;.so this year I decided it was about time to take a look at the handbrake shoes and replace them.

Changing the shoes is dead simple enough&#8230;.it is the adjustment afterwards that is a PITA.

So to start, lift and secure the vehicle, both rears wheels have to be off the ground for this task as you need to adjust each side once the shoes are fitted!

Working for a company who specialises in Aircraft tooling, GSE and components, I decided to use a small 45tonne Aircraft Axle Jack (we do have some 150 tonne axle jacks but they are too big to get under!) rather than lugging out the 12tonne bottle jack I normally use, and also the Aircraft Jack uses compressed air to operate meaning I didn&#8217;t have to pump it up manually :D:D:D

But even though the jack is capable of lifting over 15 L322&#8217;s at once, there is no excuse not to also support on stands too!


Remove the road wheel


Lever out the calliper spring


Now you have two options, either loosen the brake pads and then remove the whole calliper and bracket as a complete unit or (as I did) remove the calliper and then remove the bracket

Pop out the calliper slide/guide pin bung


Take the cover off the bleed screw and crack open while pulling/levering the pads away from the disc. Maintain leverage on the pads and do the bleed screw up, this way the brake system doesn&#8217;t draw air back into the system if you do the bleed screw up while it is still pouring brake fluid out of it!!


Using a 7mm allen key, undo the two slide pins and carefully remove the calliper out of the way. Tie it in place so it doesn&#8217;t fall...
Sorry for the delay in getting this how to out, but it has been a hectic few days recently!

This How To is for the changing of the 200TDi (Disco engine in a Ninety) Timing Belt, Cylinder Head gasket, Cam Followers and Guides, Cylinder Head Valve Guides and Seals, Water Pump Gasket, and chaning of the Cranks Shaft Timing Gear and the Belt Tensioner. (was fun!)

I will also detail down the special tools I made for the crankshaft pulley holding, valve guide drifts and spacer etc.

Tools required:
• Good selection of Spanners and Sockets, mainly 8, 10, 13, 14, 15, 17 (can’t remember at the moment but sure I used it), 19 (head bolts), 24 (pump pulley), 28 spanner (turbo oil line to block), 30 (crank damper) and 7/8” spanner (oil cooler)
• Viscous fan spanner is handy
• Diesel Fuel Pump Timing Kit – similar to Pro Land Rover Diesel Engine Timing Tool Kit for 200Tdi 300Tdi 2.5D(12J) 2.5TD | eBay and the good thing is the large round pulley holder is also used for pulling the crank damper off!! Brilliant for the price of about £25
• Diesel Injector Puller – similar to Professional Diesel Injector Puller Remover Adaptor BOSCH LUCAS M8 M12 M14 New | eBay
• Crank Holding Tool, I made mine details attached
• Valve Guide Drifts LRT-12-046, LRT-12-036 and Spacer LRT-12-515…..I made mine using a lathe at work, I took the dims available from a well known tooling website and scaled the photos using AutoCAD and guesstimated the unknown dims and made the tools using some scrap material we had. Details and Dims also attached if you fancy having a go.
• All important torque wrenches and angular tightening gauge
• Dial gauge/Torsion...
At the time of writing a set of new gaiters from Land Rover costs £40 each. They come ready attached to replacement frames so in garage labour they are probably cheaper to fit. However, for the home mechanic you can get the gaiters themselves for under a tenner, including postage.

You will need:

Replacement gaiters.
Crosshead screwdriver.
Staples / cable-ties & a bradawl & a sharp knife / glue.
Rubber o-rings / cable-ties.

Removing the old handbrake gaiter

Open cubby-hole and remove the 2 screws that hold the switchpack in place.


Pull the switchpack free and unplug the electrics.

Wriggle the switchpack off the handbrake.

On the back of the switchpack, push in the lugs holding the handbrake gaiter holder in place and pull the plastic frame with the gaiter on it free.


Remove the staples holding the gaiter in place and remove gaiter.


Putting the new handbrake gaiter on.

You need something to hold the leather in place until it is clamped in place when the frame is pushed back into place in the switchpack. Originally it was held in place by staples but I didn’t have a suitable stapler. There isn’t a lot of room in the gap as it is designed to clamp the leather in place. However, I found small cable-ties help it in place long enough to jam it in place. Other people have used glue but that was too much waiting for me and sounded a bit messy.

The new gaiter should not be symmetric. The longer lug goes at the bottom where the frame is longer.

Because I was using cable ties I drilled out the holes where the staples were and with the leather gaiter in place, pushed a bradawl through the holes followed by a small cable-tie. Each end is done first followed by the sides, making sure to leave the sticking out lock part of the cable-tie on the inside...
You will need:

A copy of RAVE (see How To section)
Plusgas (lots of it)
Jack and axle stands
32mm 6 point socket
¾” breaker bar and scaffold bar / friendly independent garage
12mm 6 point socket
¾“ 12 point socket
15mm spanners
Junior hacksaw / wire-clippers (or both)
Soft mallet
Loads of clean old rags.
CV boot kit with grease and clips.
A cable-tie / jubilee clip
Sharp knife
Threadlock as specified in RAVE (Loctite grade 648)
A little bit of differential oil as specified in RAVE
Copper grease
Silicone grease for ABS sensor
Cold chisel / centre punch


Some sort of gas-torch to help free stubborn nuts.
A bench with a vice
Oil seal for half-shaft
Replacement brake carrier bolts and brake disk screw kit.
Brake discs, pads


In the week leading up to the job spray all nuts and the hub with Plusgas each night. BE REALLY CAREFUL NONE GETS ON THE BRAKE DISK OR PADS! If they get contaminated you will crash!

You need RAVE page 755 of the Workshop Manual (2000) under FRONT SUSPENSION &#61664; REPAIR &#61664; DRIVESHAFT AND HUB ASSEMBLY.

The first job is to loosen the 32m 6 point hub-nut.

Remove the centre-cap from the wheel using screwdriver. Then loosen the hub-nut. This is not as easy as it sounds. It may have a stake through it in which case move the stake out of the way. It may (like mine) have the rim of the nut bashed into the indentation where the stake would live. I used a centre-punch to straighten mine out but apparently this isn’t necessary.

View attachment 69740

To loosen the nut you’ll need at least a ¾” breaker bar with a scaffold-bar or similar on the end. Personally, I’d save your energy. Take it straight to your local friendly independent garage with an airline and get him to loosen the nut with his airgun. Takes a minute and well worth buying him a drink or two for the hassle saved. When you get back...

Well, after replacing the Oil Pressure Switch it still leaked and considering it is still leaking despite my temporary attempt to stem the flow with Plumbers Mait Putty to tie me over until I could figure out where it was coming from....the Putty didn’t work or I was putting it in the wrong place!

So I sourced a S/H front cover from the bay of E for £40, 3 month warranty and etc...I will still be checking the oil pump and replacing all relevant seals and O rings etc in any case cos yer never know..!!

So to start, vehicle on ramps and disconnect the battery


Then remove the viscous unit and fan....using Wammers method of a good sharp tap and bingo – this is the first time this method has worked for me!!



Using a 15mm spanner on the tensioner, turn inwards to loosen the drive belt...
Recently the L322 key has been playing silly buggers despite changing the battery a few times in the last couple of weeks, still says battery low, and the remote CDL was intermittent, and now doesn’t respond at all to the fob buttons.

No probs, me thinks I’ll just use the door lock with the key for a while till I figure on what to do next (might just have to bit the bullet and get a new key from LR !!)

But, tried the key in the door lock and in true L322/Land Rover style….it didn’t work!

So, took the latch out to inspect and the geared drive from the door key drive that actuates on the locking mechanism has stripped teeth on the gears, and as such turning the key did feck all!

Ebizzle produced a replacement S/H latch mechanism and here is the How To on changing the Drivers Door Latch Mech….(same process on all the side doors really, just minus the door key mech.)

As we will be disconnecting and removing the door side impact airbag you MUST disconnect the battery. Make sure the windows are fully up before you disconnect the battery.

Process is to open the bonnet and boot, wait for the little red light to go out on the Sat Nav drive (if fitted) and then disconnect the negative battery lead.

NOW WAIT FOR A MINIMUM OF 10 minutes…I recommend at least 20 minutes then disconnect the positive battery lead…..you MUST wait as the positive lead contains a disconnection pyrotechnic charge and the SRS system contains storage capacitors that keep the SRS system active for a period in the event of a crash and the battery pyro goes off to isolate the battery from the car, the SRS remains active incase of secondary impact ….i.e. you have a frontal and the steering wheel and passenger bags go off and the battery disconnects….then a secondary impact occurs from the side, the side airbags can deploy even though the battery is disconnected.


Next, is to use a T20 torx bit to take the 3 bolts out that...