>Water flowing in bowl when cold

I forgot to mention that there is a lot of steam on the windows in the car, could be the inside heating radiator that leaks ?

thefrog said:

I forgot to mention that there is a lot of steam on the windows in the car, could be the inside heating radiator that leaks ?

Click to expand...

Yes.

Check the carpets in the footwell are damp on which ever side the heater matrix is on your car - on a RHD car its the LH passenger footwell.

Thanks for your help,
Yes, I have a leak in the cabin, my coolant is green, an I can see green liquid coming out.



Please don't tell me I need to remove the dashboard to change the radiator.

thefrog said:

Thanks for your help,
Yes, I have a leak in the cabin, my coolant is green, an I can see green liquid coming out.

View attachment 305387

Please don't tell me I need to remove the dashboard to change the radiator.

Click to expand...

You need to remove the dashboard to change the radiator.

...and a whole heap of other stuff to.

Its why mine has been leaking for over a decade. The coolant level will drop quickly to empty the expansion tank, but then slows as its dropped so far as to stop circulating through the matrix! I'm lucky in that the L Series is forgiving of low coolant levels and I can take risks on how long I go between top ups. Some times it has taken well over a liter to top up, and I have long since given up putting any anti freeeze in - so the coolant is getting very rusty and the system can't be working that well, plus the components can't have much life left in them - I imaging the water pump must be almost rusted away now.

I recon I'm living on borrowed time with the cooling.

Why not just join heater in and out hoses together in the engine bay and fill with antifreeze ??

andyfreelandy said:

Why not just join heater in and out hoses together in the engine bay and fill with antifreeze ??

Click to expand...

Has been suggested by @Alibro before - could do it over summer I suppose.

Might make the old girl last a bit longer. Connecting output to input has been known to do this for many!!

God that does look like an awkward job.
Why do people bother with vehicles like this when you can have a range rover or discovery,much simpler to maintain long term.
Have you tried putting some stop leak into the system?

I know, I'm sick and tired of this car.

It arrived on a trailer with a frozen viscous coupling and a broken transfer box. But It had only 126.000 Kms so I thought It was a good deal, I got it for 2.000€.

I found a new viscous coupling and a second hand transfer box. It was a big job but I did it with the help of this forum
The car had no history so I did the timing belt and water pump.

Then the back window got stuck so I had to put a new cable and wheels in.

Went on holiday and the clutch hydraulic command started to fail. I managed to get the car back with WD40. Then I replaced the receiver and sender.

Then while doing the school run , the fan went on, the temp went up. One of the Y pipes which go to the transfer box was cracked and I lost all coolant. I replaced both pipes. Now I'm stressed about the head gasket of course (its an 1.8k)

Back from holiday the exhaust collar form the engine cracked and feel a few centimetres, so the burning exhaust gases went along the engine for several kilometers, great, not mentioning the noise




And now the bloody radiator. I have to remove all the dashboard. I will do it 'cos I'm a stubborn guy.

What's next ? The head gasket probably.

All this in less than 2 years.

This is the most unreliable car I had.

Mr Chaffey said:

Why do people bother with vehicles like this when you can have a range rover or discovery

Click to expand...

If you can find me a petrol one for 2.000€ yes.

Well it's petrol so it's quite plausible for it to use a lot of petrol very very quickly

Mr Chaffey said:

God that does look like an awkward job.
Why do people bother with vehicles like this when you can have a range rover or discovery,much simpler to maintain long term.
Have you tried putting some stop leak into the system?

Click to expand...

I'm sorry but that's bollocks.
A RR is about 10 times more complicated and 10 times more expensive, but with ¼ the reliability of a Freelander. If the heater matrix fails in an RR (they can fail in any vehicle), then it's about 4 times longer job to sort by comparison.
Unless you have something useful to say, don't say a word.

Such a lovely chap you are then.

Bye

Mr Chaffey said:

Such a lovely chap you are then.

Bye

Click to expand...

Actually I'm very nice. I just don't spout rubbish about other people's vehicles. It's not helpful telling someone that they have the wrong vehicle, especially when the reason giving isn't even vaguely accurate.

Technical forums are for helping others, which you failed to do.
We know you're a troll, who seems to have some kind of vendetta against Freelanders and their owners.

Maybe isolate the heater pipes & use stop-leak stuff on the matrix only. That way you don't get the stop-leak around the engine & radiator. If it doesn't work, then dash out in the summer.

Thanks. Yes I will have a go with stop leak, it seems to be miraculous from what I can read about it.
I will put it in the whole system because I'm not sure the matrix is the only leak.
and then renew all the coolant a few days after, while changing the front pipes that are soft and thermostat

I'll let you know.

It's a shame all this, because when it goes, it's a great car to drive and the space inside is great !

thefrog said:

Thanks. Yes I will have a go with stop leak, it seems to be miraculous from what I can read about it.
I will put it in the whole system because I'm not sure the matrix is the only leak.
and then renew all the coolant a few days after, while changing the front pipes that are soft and thermostat

I'll let you know.

It's a shame all this, because when it goes, it's a great car to drive and the space inside is great !

Click to expand...

I wouldn't, it often blocks fine water ways which need to flow coolant.
It's one of those jobs you'll just have to sort properly.

+1 on what Nodge said. I suggested doing heater matrix separately, because that would need dash out to sort it. For the engine bay do NOT use stop-leak, but instead do a coolant pressure test & replace what's needed.

OK, thanks for this guys.
I will do it properly and get the dash out and change the matrix. I did too much work on this car to muck it up now.

Ok so I checked a Video of an Australian guy removing the dash.
What scares me are the airbags. If I disconnect the battery, the air bag cannot go off , right ?

Supposed to disconnect battery and give it 30 mins for anything to discharge. Then you will be ok..never heard of anyone having a problem.