Discovery 3 Engine re-build

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Also remember there are different fuses that go to the abs module,, listed above

Shame u couldn’t spin the wheels to check the speed sensors as I think u would need to set ur multimeter to Vac to test the voltage as the wheel spins

Think that’s right for the speed sensors in being AC instead of DC
 
Thanks mate just what I was looking for your a star will help me get my head round it, already sust that sensor supply and signal go to the abs so can now check continuity, plug to abs will work through issues over next few days, sensors arrived but couldn't fit them into such a rusty place so pulled hub and cleaned that and driveshaft and coated inside hub with high temp paint will assemble tonight and do otherside tomorrow before work valve block here tomorrow can fit Friday then plan to run diagnostic see what happens new sensor 01.2 so .1 different yes fascinating canbus resistor in abs so do you know where the other one is at the other end of the loop please ? Many thanks and all the best, couple of live pics of abs hub areas they were grim
 

Attachments

  • 20240410_175207.jpg
    20240410_175207.jpg
    313.7 KB · Views: 19
  • 20240410_181328.jpg
    20240410_181328.jpg
    261.1 KB · Views: 28
  • 20240410_175216.jpg
    20240410_175216.jpg
    238.6 KB · Views: 24
Bless u and thks for the pics , great bit of work ur doing there mate

Other one is in the instrument cluster

Hopefully over the next fe days ur be able to pin down the errors

Indeed plse let us know how things go , thks
 
So instrument cluster and abs are the ends of the loop, now I know the pin numbers will test sensor harness for continuity abs plug to sensor at some point and possibly clean the rear hubs too many thanks for your help will keep you posted
 
Bit of a result only one light left on dash and two codes which are temporary, haven't had time to put the wheels on yet, hoping to raise suspension, cycle gears and fill the trans with it's remaining 3 litres, and at least move it remaining hopefull, as want to get the xf in, undertrays and brakes can be done outside, work for next two days so limited time, wondering if the rear valve block is still an issue, but no longer ticking, still going to run through other electrical checks as recommend, cleaned the other abs area, was full of rust and muck surely this must cause an issue at some point? Great condition inside
 

Attachments

  • 17128433488777986578192317691144.jpg
    17128433488777986578192317691144.jpg
    224.9 KB · Views: 22
  • 20240411_140203.jpg
    20240411_140203.jpg
    381.8 KB · Views: 24
  • 20240411_095026.jpg
    20240411_095026.jpg
    364.8 KB · Views: 20
Fitted new speed sensors, bought a new ohm meter, reconnected battery this morning started up runs well on the button, but then it happened dashboard lights up like its Christmas again, big F loads of different codes tried ohm readings from abs pins to sensor's r/l 1.080m r/r 1.065m fronts with new sensors l/h .648 and r/h .255 checked canbus from same abs plug reading of 125.5 m ohms what I should expect with abs unplugged? decided to plug in old sensors just to see both read 1.065 so totally flummoxed refitting old sensors in morning, clear codes and see what happens
 

Attachments

  • 20240413_163140.jpg
    20240413_163140.jpg
    216.4 KB · Views: 16
  • 20240413_163212.jpg
    20240413_163212.jpg
    283.6 KB · Views: 18
  • 20240413_163240.jpg
    20240413_163240.jpg
    346.1 KB · Views: 19
  • 20240413_185956.jpg
    20240413_185956.jpg
    292.7 KB · Views: 21
Hi mate

Indeed u would get a 120 ohms reading with either the instrument panel or abs module unplugged as ur in theory taking on of the 120 resisters away ,, with both of them plugged in it should read 60ohms at the obd2 port

If it’s drivable , maybe get someone to drive it while ur watch the live data via diagnostic on the wheel speed sensors , should be able to check both the ohms and voltage

Before going out would clear everything and then read it again after the drive

I alway thought U codes could normally be ignored , plse see what they also say about them on the D3 forum, have untried putting the codes over there as well as maybe someone else has come across them

Hope that helps and plse let us know how u get on
 
Yes thanks mate canbus seems intact will check further, canbus wires are spiraling in the loom?. motor runs sweet, locked in park, still needs 3L transmission fluid, no suspension now has some pressure in bags lifted slightly then compressor cut out warning back on dash, can't make sense of sensor ohm readings going to try fitting two used OEM ones today they have same readings as the rears, within 1% of each other also found an earth behind the abs will clean that too also will check supply to modules, plugs again left everything exposed, also going to go through live data today on all offending items and just a thought will try to raise suspension with the key, if I get anything strange on live data would appreciate your thoughts, not too worried enjoying the learning every morning wake up and say today's the day Lol many thanks and all the best
 
Hi mate

Indeed the canbus wires are twisted for noise cancellation / interference

I did wonder if the front and rear wheel speed sensors would provide a different reading , fingers crossed live data will help u a lot as u narrow the error down

Know the air suspension can be frustrating at times but just found it easier to either trace the wiring or split the system up for any air leaks and testing each air line one by one with pressure gauges , isolating valves etc , using a tyre inflator with some test point connectors

Of course will help as much as I can mate , plse let us know how u progress
 
Thanks mate changed rear valve this morning compressor ran for a while, then the fickle finger of fate happened, my friend from the local garage turned up needing a 2.7 injector so we did a Norfolk barter, he agreed to come back with his diagnostics, he turned up about an hour ago, blew up the air suspension, no faults, issue causing information breakdown is the vehicle dynamics control module, was the only fault I couldn't clear (4) also put another 1 1/2L of transmission fluid moves forward and reverse just got to find out where vdcm is heads up anyone? lol
 

Attachments

  • 20240414_181027.jpg
    20240414_181027.jpg
    260.3 KB · Views: 19
  • 20240414_181033.jpg
    20240414_181033.jpg
    274.4 KB · Views: 20
Thanks mate changed rear valve this morning compressor ran for a while, then the fickle finger of fate happened, my friend from the local garage turned up needing a 2.7 injector so we did a Norfolk barter, he agreed to come back with his diagnostics, he turned up about an hour ago, blew up the air suspension, no faults, issue causing information breakdown is the vehicle dynamics control module, was the only fault I couldn't clear (4) also put another 1 1/2L of transmission fluid moves forward and reverse just got to find out where vdcm is heads up anyone? lol

Great pleasure my friend , just hope it’s helpful to u

Ref C1A00-54, think that means missing calibration for the suspension

Of course not wishing to try and teach I how to suck eggs but auto box should be around 35-40c with the engine running to check the level

is ur steering wheel angle sensor also ok plse

Assume nothing has been crossed over from a pre 2007 , just a thought apart from the obvious ones in case there’s any difference of modules ?
 
Last edited:
Thanks mate yes took me a while but just found it on d3 website vdcm and abs same thing, think its coded, but not sure, only codes I couldn't clear was vdcm, your help with resistance tests confirmed continuity from abs to wheel sensors, and can bus link was ok so was starting to suspect abs, we lifted the suspension with the diagnostic so will calibrate later, going to check out ecutesting.com pretty sure I see abs/brcm repair/rebuild, ironically have now had both of the ends of the loop component issues in last two LR, going to keep cycling gears and filling up until close then final check at temp but have learned a lot many thanks will let you know how it goes
 
Messing about with last few jobs before moving it out of the workshop, autobox arm to cable had seized so stripped cleaned and soaked in oil for a bit works fine now, had a power steering issue but seems to have resolved itself think it must have had an air lock, no puddles underneath and it fires up on the button so to speak, also picked up a 306dt l/h cylinder head today, as you can freely spin the timing pulley on left hand side of xf not been inside as yet, sending abs/dynamics unit off for inspection/repair once have moved it out of shop tomorrow, one brake pipe left to replace and discs/pads/service and under tray wheel liners all other jobs can be done outside so all good thanks to @gstuart for your help with wiring
 

Attachments

  • 20240417_162342.jpg
    20240417_162342.jpg
    233.4 KB · Views: 14
  • 20240417_162349.jpg
    20240417_162349.jpg
    318.5 KB · Views: 14
Ur so very welcome in helping where I can, always a team effort

Indeed plse let us know how things go and also learning from ur thread
 
Landrovers together in front yard still have under trays and wheel arch liners/trim to fit, discs/pads and have a leak off pipe leak to do, abs off to ecutesting.com for repair will bleed and do brakes on its return with ap200. Back on 07 tomorrow have ordered a new reservoir block, and going to change the compressor for one I have serviced see what happens suspension dropping some nights others not, jag in the workshop (shed) so I have something to do when it rains Lol, trying to formulate a plan of attack going to try to remove the same way as a D3, don't think there's much to do down the sides mostly above and below,
may have to drop the subframe, heads are going for refurbishing, new rockers, lifters, belts, idlers etc, oil pump and all the usual stuff looking forward to a change, originally, bought for the motor but may just put it back in sixty and never had a jag
 

Attachments

  • 20240421_112947.jpg
    20240421_112947.jpg
    380.9 KB · Views: 11
  • 20240419_083904.jpg
    20240419_083904.jpg
    364.9 KB · Views: 10
  • 20240420_190029.jpg
    20240420_190029.jpg
    399.2 KB · Views: 11
Changed compressor yesterday found leaks on the one I had fitted had corrosion, so, changed to one I had from a 06 fitted new dryer beads o rings etc fitted took for drive amber light pops back on, pressure to low code, so "borrowed" compressor from one I've just rebuilt, used last night no lights or gongs, but suspension stiff over potholes small bumps real banging, just to add to my confusion front suspension stayed up last night spot on, probably run diagnostic today live data see what I can find also calibration may help. Ecu testing have received abs/ecu and have assigned it to an engineer so should know later if it is indeed faulty
 

Attachments

  • 20240424_091810.jpg
    20240424_091810.jpg
    344.7 KB · Views: 9
  • 20240424_091903.jpg
    20240424_091903.jpg
    407.8 KB · Views: 9
  • 20240422_090345.jpg
    20240422_090345.jpg
    324.6 KB · Views: 9
Nothing like tearing ur hair out mate , wonder if it’s reaching the req pressures in order the suspension isn’t stiff so to speak , plus of course as u say with regards to calibration

Doing a fantastic job there mate , know it can be very frustrating, been there done that, lol, many times I’ve walked away fro a few days them gone back to it

Plse let us know how u get on mate ref the abs module
 
Back
Top