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£2k raised for charity but works out as about £2.7k ULEZ charges for 150 vehicles... not sure I see the logic!

Yeah forgot to say you probably want pads/discs and then a sliding pin service kit with appropriate rubber friendly grease (I.e not copper slip or GP grease).

Whatever you do on brakes you do in pairs, so both sides of the axel get the same treatment.

The car failed on the test drive and you have a thread full of knowledgeable people here warning you off. But if you do go ahead then I hope you're right and it works out for you, but personally I wouldn't buy from them.

I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier as I could of warned you off these guys. They are well known around the local garages for being a pair of chancers. I know 2 (well 3 now including you) people who have bought from them and have ended up returning the car. I would warn everyone to stay away.

Locking rear diffs very rare on the d3. Also the 4x4 screen shows an unlocked icon for the rear diff even if you don't have the option fitted.

In the couple of seconds it does run do you get 'engine system fault' or anything in the lcd screen? If so then there should be a code. If you wanna keep the car then get a decent code reader. Will save you big time.

They aren't cheap cars to run and every cheap d3 you find will be a disaster waiting to happen. Thing is with the tdv6 you can do all the right things, keep on top of the servicing and look after the thing like it was a family heirloom, then one day the crank will snap out of the blue and leave...

Also look closely at what you're buying as a lot of the aftermarket sumps don't have a drain hole, which obviously makes a filter change a messy job!

The core plug under the exhaust is a common place, mine tended to leak when cold but it sealed up and held pressure when hot

On the d3 forum a while ago there was a guy from one of the big South Africa LR clubs and they are convinced the cranks get snapped by harmonics like you say. Things like bad pulleys/dampers or out of balance TCs or flex plates. The SA guys also swear by slick50 style treatments in the tdv6 to...

And that crank still won't solve the oil pressure problems. That's what causes the spun bearings over time, the oil pressure is terrible on the entire line of tdv6 engines.

Get the codes read or it's just an expensive guessing game.

Yes cruise control is plug and play, just need to remove airbag and cut/drill a hole in the steering wheel to fit the buttons.

The r380s run well with automatic transmission fluid in them. Like a dexron 2. These oils have a lot of cleaning additives and are cheap so make good flushing oils, you could drive the car a few days to make sure everything is washed out.

From memory that's just the return from the fuel leak offs I wouldn't expect any kind of pressure, especially if the engine isn't doing any work

Who changed the oil pump? You can check the oil pressure sender wiring and see if its loose or damaged etc. If nothing is obviously wrong with the sender you need to fit a known good oil pressure gauge and see what it tells you. My advice would be to not run the engine until you can verify the...

The book tells you MTF94 or dexron 2 for the 380. Half of who you ask will swear by mtf and other half will tell you dexron atf. I ran dexron 2 atf in both my r380s for 200k+miles and never had problems.

If it turned off with the key then it's not likely to be oil runaway. I would get it on diagnostics and check throttle sensor readings.

Approx 250miles was quoted to me by Bristol transmissions as being the amount of 'history' the gearbox remembers and takes into account when adjusting for gearbox wear. When you reset adaptions this is reset to 0 so changes will happen quickly. It constantly monitors solenoid performance and can...