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This is one of the most extreme thread resurrections I have ever seen!

As for wiring, here are the fuse and relay panels I decided on. I'm left with a few spare slots, some of which I've pre-wired as perm live / ign live to add basic additional circuits later on in life. The layout I finally decided on: Making a bracket: Wiring what I could before it...

So where was I - oh, the rear door. I put a brand new skin on, painted thoroughly inside so as not to contact the steel frame, it also painted heavily. In primer; These are the original, completely battered front wings. I've used none of this and have got bits as and when to build a new...

It'll go mouldy when the rain leaks in:p

I've done it and it's somewhere in my build thread, not a bad job. Headlining is ok but carpet in a defender?? You should be ashamed of yourself!

Thank you very much, look good but like you say, not quite. He seems to selle every one except mine.

Cheers. I've been watching a Bulgarian seller for some time hoping that his services may crop up on here for a reference but I've not seen any. Might try this one and see what he's got.

Any idea where these graphics can be purchased? I need these;

I've got last years M+S extra special Christmas pudding on top of the fridge, only went out of date in June. I'll even through in the film of greasy dust.

I really, really, really wouldn't. Hold one big hammer behind it and hit from the front. I can't explain how it works but it relays the impact back from the other side.

I once cut one off before I learned that the two hammers trick is surprisingly effective. You need plenty of room to work.

Brake switch spur runs out behind the speedo and connects right next to the switch. Difflock and fuel connect to the main, not engine, looms. Diff lock might even be a fixed wire but can't remember.

If the torque is supposed to be applied to the nut, you need to consider any extra friction the Bolt will encounter, passing through whatever is passes through.

Save it for the joke thread:D:D

I nearly fitted the led lights to my rebuild but for a few reasons decided against it, this issue being the final nail in the coffin.

It's well documented, you need to either fit resistors between the wiring and led, or buy an adjustable load indicator relay. Your relay senses a different load when a trailer is plugged in, hence the light comes on. Not sure how that's works with less load, usually they just don't flash...

I'm in Scotland and it's 14 degrees at the moment, I've painted 2k in colder conditions than this with no problems but never with coach enamel so I'm out.

Any copper slip will reduce the friction between the nut and the paint, if the paint is thin, all good, if it's thick then it's going to crack regardless. If it still chips the paint you've got a smear of grease there to keep the water away.

Copperslip. Simples.

You're right about propane, very bad for garages in general. What paint you using?