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Problem solved - had checked the wrong fuse. And I hadn't even started on the beer......

OK - so had the fast flashing indicator. Checked the bulb badly seated, but couldn't replace without it becoming unseated again. So I (foolishly it appears) tried a different bulb holder - now none of the indicators work. Hazards work. No indicators. Fuses (obviously) OK...... Ideas?

I have similar issue with 1989 model: 3rd is always fun to find and 1st can only be found from 2nd. I found changing the oil in the box helped (amazing amount of metal on the magnetic plug) somewhat, but can still be a challenge now.

Thanks - that sounds a likely one. How difficult is the strip and cloean (without access to my Haynes, I'm not even sure where the governor is!!) Ta

Not that I have noticed. I have checked in the turbo and there is a bit of oil in there (but considering how much there is in the air filter I'm not that surprised!), but not a lot. I await some expertise........

The 36mm also does one of the oil plugs underneath - transfer box?

I have that exact one - does nicely

Well - it isn't the throttle cable. OPebed her up when it was over revving and the cable was fully extended. thoughts?

Checked turbo - oil present, but not 'lots' relative to the oil everywhere else! Difficult to know what amount spells danger. I will check throttle tomorrow AM and apply some oil.

I will do both and let you know, thanks

56mph in my 1989 2.5TD. And scared.

Hi, (This was in the Engine section, but had no answers!) Recently noticed that when the engine (1989 19J) is warm (been driven for a while) when I take foot off the accelerator the revs stay high for a few seconds before dropping off. It seems to be the warmer the engine the longer it takes to...

Hi, Recently noticed that when the engine is warm (been driven for a while) when I take foot off the accelerator the revs stay high for a few seconds before dropping off. It seems to be the warmer the engine the longer it takes to idle down. On occasion the revs can even be high when...

I used my discos jack and a socket, but even after jacking it up quite hard there didn't seem to be a huge amount of extra room for the circlip. Then the PITA of fitting the circlip almost sent me round the bend. I will follow the advice on tapping next time- if I'm honest I wasn't a 100% sure...

How did you go about getting it off? Did you use a puller? All the stuff I've read led me to leave it well alone, but I guess it may be worth a punt.

Thankful for small mercies! I now have to go through that PITA again, and hopefully get it right this time:o

On checking it would appear that I didn't get the circlip in properly and the bottom has fallen out - that would explain things.......

I do sorry, poor vocab. I will go and have a look at the track rod end when it has stopped raining and see what state it is in.

how old is it? For what it is worth had a similar problem, turned out to be the ignition key assembly was knackered and just kept cutting out the solenoid. Replaced and hey presto....

Just thought about this: the drop arm seems to move fine with the steering wheel; the play is between the ball joint and the rod. On that basis I am guessing that attacking the adjustment screw will make no difference and I'm back to thinking that the very old steering damper may need replacing??