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Nah, about right for a v8! Rear crank seal; front crank seal; front cover gasket; valley gasket; sump gasket; sump drain plug washer; oil cooler pipe unions; oil cooler; rocker gaskets. Use Sh!tpart and you can have endless fun replacing them every year or so.

No, I didn't. That's just another part of the overall system but it cannot affect the max output from the alternator. It will of course affect how much is drawn down from that max. What you're suggesting is that if you put a bigger load on an alternator it will always mysteriously come up with...

The power cones from the number of coils - that's roughly what is causing R[esistance] in your formula, albeit with a bit of feedback so it varies on demand. Volts times amps is watts (power). If one goes up the other goes down but the power remains the same. The only way to change the power is...

There's something different in the way GEMS ties into the HEVAC. Thor and diesel are different. I cannot recall now what it is because I have had too much beer but it'll come back to me. And yes, early models were driven direct rather than by a relay. I seem to rrcall the first time it cropped...

While we're on it I tried some later versions of his software for the the v8 L322 on a diesel model and most of the modules on that also worked.

That's the part that is different. As far as I am aware the rest is the same but I may be wrong. Marty knows a lot more about HEVAC as he's had a lot more apart.

The P38A is modular so each computer works separately. Most systems are the same across diesel and petrol with the exception of the EMS and the HEVAC on the GEMS and even then I think the way the HEVAC communicates with diagnostics is the same.

Hawkeye and then that Britpart thing whose name escapes me. Might be Lynx? Edit: forgot the Storey Wilson paid for software. Tgat probably does it.

Unfortunately Turner's rebuilds have been the subject of comment for some years now. V8 Developments seem to be the preferred choice at the moment, albeit they have something of a waiting list issue.

Injector screws into the ally head. I've got a feeling RAVE says 60 nm in one place and 70 nm in another. Pretty sure I went 60 nm on mine and they've been fine. I didn't even anneal mine, just torqued them up on the new head.

Yep. Early v8s had a smaller alternator too, I think.

The max power is set by the number of turns on the coils. Only rewinding the alternator will change that. Volts go up, amps go down.

None of my injector copper washers would come off. I suspect the new ones might not fit tightly enough around the injector.

I seem to recall a member on here getting a replacement cartridge for not a bad price. Easy to do. @brianp38dse might remember who it was.

13.8V is the old alternator set point. Not enough for a calcium battery. You can replace the alternator regulator to give 14.3 or even 14.5V but it will only have the same power so takes longer to charge a big 1k CCA battery. Replacing the regulator is about £20 and will need to be done anyway...

How many miles?

Spunds like part of yhe can-bus system? @Saint.V8 played with that on his L322.

Been there before. Everything crossed here.

Sounds more like the FIP is tired or the chains are stretched so far the modulation goes out of range. Need diagnostics but you might get away with tapping the FIP ever so slightly towards the engine but that just puts off the inevitable. Better to do static timing, check the lift pump is...

Did you try Wych Bearings? They've always come up trumps for me.