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Hi All, Whilst bleeding the fuel system this morning i managed to snap the bleed bolt atop my bulkhead mounted fuel filter housing, my plan was to tap it out but having looked on google I can't find the bolt itselft only the full filter housing, does anybody know where I can get one?

Having changed the glow plugs last week the old girl is now struggling a little to start, she turns over on the starter and 'nearly' fires for about 30 seconds and then when she does start I have to keep my foot buried on the accelerator to keep it going at very low revs, the revs then build up...

How about knocking the turbo off it and doing a 200di conversion instead? Gives you a well under stressed engine with more of a 'factory' style performance

Had a look and one of the heater plugs had a broken coil, I d also managed to burn another one out by testing it on the battery :( I ve bought a new set off fleabay but now I regret not buying the kit to wire them in parallel, does anybody know how to do it that could explain it to me without...

Any more suggestions guys?

is the bleed nipple on the fuel filter? (maybe i ve not quite advanced enough to be alled amateur yet?

Thanks I ll get the mrs to have a pump and have a look, mind you i guess if i cant get it started then it dosnt really matter a great deal

hi James, The fluid reservoir is full, (the only one i could find under the bonnett) and i m not really sure how to check the linkage, is it easy to access from underneath the vehicle

Series IIA LWB 2.25 diesel Hi Guys, I went to the landy the other morning and I noticed that the clutch pedal seemed to suddenly have an excessive amount of play in it (about half of its total travel arc) and became very difficult to get in and out of gear without the revs being perfect...

Had my series 2 lwb for 10 months now without problems. I came to it yesterday and the low oil pressure and the alternator light came on but no starter motor, interior lights, spotlight, fuel gauge, indicators etc. After checking the fuse i noticed it was a little corroded and a quick clean up...

Ok having just had a look this afternoon, my headlights don't appear to be sat in a bowl, is that an issue?

Hi Guys, Looking to convert my headlights to halogen as per some of the £30 kits on fleabay, I presume this is just a straight swap? I ve also discovered that a few of my headlight adjustment screws appear to be missing and I m struggling to find any replacements, has anybody any ideas...

Hi guys, 2001 v8 p38 thor engine, chain or belt timing?

I ve just given it a go and it has loosened them significantly although they're still not super floppy like the old ones were, I m sooooo hoping I don't have to take them off again

The action is still really smooth, would it not be jerky if a roller has been moved? I think it might be to do with pushing the cups on too far? Would putting the prop back on and doing a few miles maybe loosen them off?

Ok so I ve changed the UJ but one of the planes of movement is quite stiff compared to the other? The other plane moves easily by its own weight! The stiffer one is still easy to move by hand, thoughts?

I do indeed have freewheeling hubs, basically I ve got two new UJS ready to fit and I know all four need replacing, now I know that the front prop shaft isn't spinning whilst driving I ll do the rear ones first

Really dumb question, but am I right in saying that when my series II is in two wheel drive, the front prop shaft will not move whilst driving?

Wouldn't unburnt fuel be black? Or is that just regular derv

I hadn't even thought about the valve clearances, i presume this is a pretty easy job with a feeler gauge?