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The rear hose should have a copper washer between the steel hose fitting and the brass T piece so it will seal properly.

That looks to be the wrong flexi hose. Mine have long threads on both ends of the flexi hose. They are held onto the brackets at the chassis and swivel by a nut and toothed washer. This leaves enough exposed thread for the copper pipe flare fitting to be tightened far enough to seal. As far as...

I know of one that still lets you remove the parts yourself. I prefer that way as you get to see how to remove it. You will likely also take more care removing a part you need yourself. You would be unlikely to find a Series Land Rover in one nowadays. They do sometimes have Discoverys or...

The tax exemption will apply from 1st April 2025 if the vehicle was built before 1st Jan 1985. You will have to take the logbook to a Post Office to be sent off for the tax class to be changed. The MOT exemption applies from the day after the vehicle turns 40 years old. They don't ask for a...

I used loctite 5922 along with pre-cut paper gaskets when I replaced the front drive flanges on my Series 3 back in 2018. This seems to have help up very well so far. There is no sign of any oil leaking through the joints. It can be messy to use and will stick to anything it accidentally...

I had a filter holder from a 2.5NA diesel engine to my 2.25 diesel engine when it was rebuilt. These take a modern self contained canister filter. I believe the petrol block is the same. As far as I know one of these holders should be an easy swap.

That wouldn't show a break in the wiring between plugs 4 and 1. That was the purpose of the idea of using a wire back from plug 1.

When I did this I had an idea of running a wire back from the top of the number 1 cylinder plug (front of engine) to power the bulb. That way you would know if there was a break in the circuit somewhere as the bulb wouldn't light up. I never got round to actually doing it.

I think the cover you have may have been poorly repaired after the original thread was damaged. The old cover could still be modified by welding or brazing a threaded steel ring onto it. Either a tapered plug or one with a shoulder and copper washer would work depending on what is easily...

Here is a link to a site selling a genuine original cover (price £195). The photos show what the thread should look like a lot better than it can be explained in words. https://www.landrovertreasureshop.com/product/rtc844-cover-rear-diff-salisbury-axle-land-rover-series-def-101fwc/

EDIT: The threads originally would have been tapped into a pressed sleeve formed from the thin cover metal. This doesn't appear to be there in the photo. The plug may have been over-tightened in the past, which could have split the threaded sleeve. The damaged sleeve may have been removed and a...

You can see the top of the roll pin on the side of the latch in your photo. It has to be knocked out with a suitably sized pin punch. The circular slotted nut behind it then has to be unscrewed. A few taps in the right direction with a pin punch in one of the slots will loosen it. The barrel...

Standing it up on a sack trolley sounds like an accident waiting to happen. What are you planning to do with the old one? With an angle grinder and 1mm slitting disks you will easily be able to cut it into manageable pieces. I chopped my old chassis into small enough bits to pick up and fit...

What is going on there? A new member with no other posts seems to have copy and pasted part of my post about the hoses from page 1.

Looking at the state it was found in, I have to wonder how much of the original chassis and bulkhead they really used.

At least wrap a strip of rubber around the hose first before clamping locking pliers onto it. How old are the flexi hoses themselves? Clamping off old ones can ruin them. It is also possible that the rubber can break down inside the hoses and cause internal blockages.

I have seen a few local businesses using classic Morris Minor and Ford vans so some are doing that. With the prices of modern vans, a classic is probably cheaper. According to the TFL site, a vehicle used commercially has to be built before 1973 to be exempt. See below. All vehicles that have...

The early coil sprung 90s and 110s will start to become tax, MOT and emissions exempt over the next few years with age. It would probably be cheaper and less trouble to buy one of those.

Had I known all this was coming so soon, I wouldn't have bought my Series 3, never mind wasted all the time and money rebuilding it. While it is exempt for now, the rules will only get worse. I don't want to end up stuck with something completely worthless that I can't sell.

As far as I know, if it was built in 1983 it can be changed to be tax exempt after the start of the 2024 Tax year. He will have a bit of time to do the work before 6th April 2024. I assume the current tax rate would be £325 per year for a Pre-2001 vehicle with an engine over 1.5l From the UK...