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Just back a drive and the brakes are absolutely perfect. MOT guy can do one, I'll get it tested again somewhere else

I think he's just doing mots by the book and not taking into account the fact that this is a 30 year old defender and it will never be like a modern car

I will. I didn't even take my motor to him for it's mot but the garage that I usually use and that would have passed it no problem is waiting on being signed back off by Vosa so they're using a couple other places for MOTs for now

It's steel braided flexis I've got on

I've spent ages trying different lengths, i know what happens if it's too long and did fall into this trap before. I put a smear of blue hylomar on the end and basically adjusted it until I was only just getting a little on the piston face. That's the best I could do. As I said brakes are there...

Nice to see you about, I thought you'd gone. Is there any way to remedy this if that is indeed the problem?

I could understand if the pedal lost the travel it's got after a couple of pumps once the pistons have moved out to contact the pad but it doesn't, the pedal travel is pretty consistently the same no matter what

Found my old master cylinder and re-fitted it and pedals exactly the same so it's definitely not that. I don't know what else to rule out

So I've did a bit of digging and what I've discovered is that the bore size may not be correct. The standard master cylinder bore is 25mm but apparently some aftermarket ones have a smaller bore that gives exactly the symptoms I've got. Good brakes but longer pedal travel

I know, it wasn't that clear from any video I took. There is only about 15mm free play at the top of the pedal before it starts to act on the brakes though

New brake servo fitted and whilst this one definitely doesn't have any flex when the pedal is being pressed I still feel like the MOT tester wil say it's got too much travel. I know that these arent adjustable behind the pushrod within the servo so it's not that. I don't know what else to do to...

Those panel covers that are riveted on can also be removed for doing puppet shows

It's the prop

That's because it's for a 200, 300 or td5 to upgrade it to take the later type abs servo and improve braking on those. You could fit a new servo of the type already fitted and it'll help but there are a lot of other things you could do that would improve your brakes

Funny you should say that I noticed mine doing that very thing last night. I pressed the brake pedal with a pole whilst feeling the master cylinder so I could tell when the piston was actually engaged and I could physically see the face of the servo flexing out. I've bought a better quality one...

I had already adjusted the push rod and I'm wary of adjusting it too much and putting constant pressure on the piston itself. The actual brake pedal has about 15mm or so of free play before it actuates the pushrod so I'm happy with that but obviously the pushrod into the master cylinder is the...

Twice now my Defender has failed its MOT and subsequent retest due to the brake pedal having too much travel. The tester said that he knows the brakes are there and they work but the pedal has got too much travel and is nearing the floor when pressure is kept on it. Unfortunately it's a fail...

I fitted led lights to mine ages ago and never had a problem even with the original relay. That being said I've somehow got 3 of the adjustable ones so if you do need one give me a shout, I'll never use them

Probably a long shot but has anyone in central Scotland got a 300tdi Defender drivers side seatbelt kicking about? Mine failed its MOT on some wear to the belt and i won't get one in till next week now if I order online which means having it off the road for over a week.