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It may be well enough to last the trip to morocco you know, just regas before you go and boom, AC. Alternatively it's a case of just swap the belt for a non AC vehicle, that will reduce the load from the pump being on the engine, no need to actually remove anything as such, well except the AC...

Nick, it's because you stub axle will have a few bures on it from previous removals and these will just wedge the race tight, a bit of heat, a chisel or a bit bod brute force should doing but it will happen every time until you get a new stub, there is no need for one though except to stop this...

Most transits and I fact most light goods vans are only rated to 3200kgs, they really are not made for heavy weight just bulk...

The switch goes inline, don't earth the negative as you are just creating a short circuit. Wire from positive goes to a fuse, from there to +ve on switch, -neg of switch goes to +ve on light, -neg goes to earth on body. Think of it like a hose, water has to flow continually around the circuit

Just make sure the wires are thick enough for the current draw (beacons use a lot of power due to the electric motors unless it's a modern led flashing one and not a rotating bulb one) and grommet when going through panels so as not to chafe wiring. Fuse as close as possible to the battery and...

Use a hose and back flush the matrix, when I done mine I got loads of crap out of it... Still had crap heaters mind, TD5 upgrade is a worthy mod (do a search, been covers many times)

I had a champion winch for years, never let me down, plenty of power, solenoid never failed and steel cable was fine, cost me £360 brand new and is still going strong today on the front of a friends truck. Got used often enough, it's no competition winch but for the money was outstanding. Was...

If you look at the last pic you can see the internal cage so looks like it could be solid, horrid colour but does look very well done. I don't doubt it's cost a lot to do as he's got pucka bits on it but that price is about £3k to much IMHO, for £3k it's a good bit though, just needs repainting!

It will always be the last place you check, you don't find a leak and keep on looking afterwards...

That's because its a defender, panel fit was never their forte...

Mine was k when I adjusted the stop locks, a lot better than the L200 I used a few years back, that was an absolute barge on turning circles!

Can you? How's that then? With the one I had there was no way of using any pedal without pressing them all...

Defender door cards are plastic plus they leak so much it wouldn't make any difference, I a. Normal vehicle with fibreboard doorcards a it would lead to moisture molding it all up...

I smashed my rear window due to the weight of it when I was nose down at a pay and play day plus when off roading it sounded like it was going to rip the door off, also on steep declines it use to hit on the ground

I dot think they have to be pairs, as long as they are not a level requirement light (I.e. Headlights) it doesn't matter, look up VW cyclops light, they are perfectly legal...

You can have as many 'driving lights' as you want as long as they are switchable. You can use on a public highway as long as it's only during full beam conditions...

People prefer the earlier TD5's as they were less electronic than later defenders, it seems later vehicles are less in demand although personally I love driving later defenders, they are so much more refined and the later dash is a lot nicer... Think if I was buying though I would still go TD5...

SafeTlock, the pedal locks, are the best thing IMHO...

I bought a bore scope from lidl for £70, excellent piece of kit, decent camera and screen, decent light, plenty of options, beats paying £400 for a snap on one...

Local lanes will be fine I reckon, I don't want to go to far so I can skip off if needs be. I will be in the shogun still as it's a mates now and he wants to take it out plus I never really got to test it, it's also quite comfy which is a bonus. I may even try to get him to do a bures or Essex...