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I'd check the intercooler pipes. A small split can cause havoc to your power, though smoke will be a problem. It's a cheap fix and getting rid of the EGR will save you issues in the future.

Not sure if you bought a galv chassis, but you can try Shielder. I got one for £1400 delivered and it includes a gearbox Xmbr. From there on, it's safe to go mad and buy everything new. Yep, the pit gets deeper!

It was weird, I was driving home from work, then 22 miles and it just stopped. No juddering, just pulled up. Turns over like a train. Fuses are all OK, so I'll do as you mentioned Wombat and fit that wire.

Roaming Wombat, the power goes from 0 to 1V, so must be the lead. I would have thought the chaffing would have caused a trip though.

I think it's the cable due to the low voltage. , Wasn't sure if the cable went straight to the ignition, or a relay. I've got a book that goes to 94, but this one's a 98. I've ordered the new solenoid just in case. Good idea straight from the battery, I'll try that first. Thanks

I bought some new doors for my 94 and they cost £1200. You can go down the series route and save a bundle. It's the extras that add the cost.

I need help. Defender turns over well, but does not start. Believe the issue is with the Stop Solenoid wiring, as it is not giving 12 volts when ignition is turned on. It gives about 1 volt and after checking the white lead, it looks chaffed with the conductor showing. Guess it's blown a fuse...

I have owned a series3, a Defender, 3 Disco's and a Range Rover. I have lived thirty years under and over Landies, but cannot get my "new" series 2a flat smiths heater to jump into action. I think the previous owner plumbed a series 3 matrix onto the flat one, but the pipework still goes through...